I don’t really think anything about it, because I haven’t tried it. It’s not something which had even crossed my mind before.
Have you had an opportunity to use a sample of the D4S with the XP-L HD emitters?
I haven’t bought my D4S yet, but it’s on the radar and I want to choose the emitter I’m going to like best.
If compare XP-L vs LH351D, which one generating a lot of more heat?
Ordered some disc magnets to epoxy onto the tail.
Can you let me know how it goes, I may follow your lead. The only reason I haven’t done so already was that I am wondering how it will go in the same pocket with credit cards.
@Di_Joker, the LH351D is more efficient than the XP-L HD, so it will be producing more light for the same heat.
However, since its VF is a bit lower in the 70CRI version, it will draw a bit more current, so it will get slightly hotter.
It will still be not as hot as the Nichia 219C though.
@BlueSwordM, Thank you! I completely forgot about SST20 4000K NW CRI95, as they are in the heat in comparison with XP-L HD?
I do wish there were a longer tailcap available. I just want it to be longer, but would happily accept additional functionality with a strong magnet and lanyard loop, maybe even a tripod mount.
So sad. Those poor mice…
Now I wait. I am also concerned about CC and magnets, my PrimePro A1 has been in my front pocket with my wallet for a few weeks, all has been well.
This magnet is much stronger, I wish I would of went with a thinner 1/16”. I got the 7/8 x #8 x 1/8, N42 NI, C-sunk.
Don’t try and spread the glue around with a metal knife like I did. Yes I did.
Thanks for posting this. I looked a bit for a countersunk 1/16” magnet, not found yet. Why countersunk, or even a hole in the magnet at all? Were you able to find a single magnet, or did you end up buying a handful?
Looks like you used super glue for the attachment, guessing it is still holding up fine?
First time trying this glue. I wouldn’t call it a super glue. Sets in 30 minutes cures in 24 hours. Don’t stick your fingers together like super glue does.
A 1/16th inch disk would probably been enough. Was thinking the hole could be filled with epoxy or black JB weld. I still might. I have had better luck completely covering neo magnets in the past. They tend to chip off on the edges. They are brittle.
K&J Magnets is where I found these. I will probably order some more. I remember a coated version.
I don’t feel I need to glue the clip. It has not moved at all in the few days I have carried it.
This is still a work in progress. I also would like a way to attach a small 3” loop lanyard. It might work on the clip itself. Will update.
I love magnetic tailcaps. Ideally, I fit a small magnet within the tailspring, but some lights won’t allow that.
For securing magnets to the outside of tailcaps, I’ve had good luck with Loctite 5-minute Clear Epoxy. I scratch up the nickel coating of the magnet and the anodizing of the tailcap before installing.
I suggest N52 grade magnets, which are stronger than N42 grade.
My Zebralight SC5w weighs 90 grams (3.2 oz) with an AA Eneloop installed.
Amazingly, a 1/32” thick x 3/4” diameter N52 magnet holds the SC5w to even a painted vertical steel surface. My H51w has one too.
The D4 with a cell weighs about 120 grams, so I’d go with at least a 1/16” thick N52 just to be safe.
Add SST-20 options for the D4.
SST-20 6500K: 4200lm
SST-20 5000K: 4000lm
SST-20 4000K/3000K 95CRI: 3000lm
please consider bringing back the green and cyan color options, the available now are dull and boring .
Oh my poor wallet! Still semi-holding out / hoping for different body colours before I buy more.
Hank, is it upgraded to RampingOS V3?
FYI: the current batch of aluminum Emisar D4 at International Outdoors are partially lego-able with the all Titanium D4s.
Their aluminum heads fit on the titanium body tubes.
Were the original batch not lego-able? O saw several Ti with aluminum heads after they came out.
Any opinion of the new SST20 led compared to the Nichia and XP-L 5000k?