Fireflies PL47 Flashlight

On the other side of this coin, seeing a green cast on everything doesnā€™t sit right with my brain either. Iā€™ve spent so much if my life around incandescent and sodium lights that a warmer tint is something I can stand however, even if its not my absolute favorite.

I still stick to the idea that blue light is something you want to AVOID in any activity where focus/depth perception is important. Amber lenses for driving, shooting sports, etc. for years have never let me down, and anecdotally cooler temps often seem to give me more ā€œglareā€ at night when compared against warmer tints at the same brightness and intensity.

Spent all my life outdoors, working in construction. Wasnā€™t around a lot of fluorescent lighting. But when it comes time to go out in the dark and get something done I can stand a blue-white tint, canā€™t bear a campfire orange hue on everything, those old Maglite days are gone for me! Green hue, donā€™t care for it and it bugs the snot out of me but if I have something to do I can still get it done, itā€™ll bug me the whole time though. The cool white doesnā€™t do that, I mean, doesnā€™t bug me the whole time Iā€™m out. Too much like the new headlights on cars I guess. Man, speaking of cars, my old ā€™51 Chevy had those dang near orange lights and I hated em even 40 years ago! lol

I am just the opposite. My eyes just donā€™t like cool white at all. I can live with neutral, but much prefer warm light. Earlier today I put some XM-L Hi, U4, 3000K 80+CRI emitters from mtnelectronics in one of my Wuben T046R lights. It now gives me a very warm, orange-ish, golden light. I love it.


I feel that, the Nichias Iā€™ve seen as cool as 6000K still look great and handle red and brown tones really well. Personally I donā€™t like anything south of 4000K either as its just washed out orange like you said but to some people 4000 Is SUPER warm still.

On the other hand I HATE the cool white LEDs on some new cars. Hurts my eyes whether Iā€™m using them or another car is shining them at me, its nice theyā€™re a bit brighter when youā€™re driving with them but the tradeoff in eye strain really wouldnā€™t be worth it for me. Same reason Iā€™ve got f.lux on my PC and a blue-blocker app on my phone too. I definitely think some people are more sensitive to it, and Iā€™ve always had issues with even regular sunlight causing eye strain if Iā€™m not wearing sunglasses pretty much my whole life (getting contact lenses helped - they block UV).

And all this, in a nutshell, is why there are no right or wrong answers.

That photo above, side by side lights with the orange on the right? Iā€™d have those orange emitters in the trash within 20 minutes of opening the box! Read a book once where the divine wisdom was ā€œLeave to others their otherness.ā€ :wink:

Now we just need other brands to get on the cool white but high CRI/R9 train! :smiley:

Yā€™all just need to learn to modā€¦ :stuck_out_tongue:

@DB Custom and BPlayd0h, there is the 5700k Luxeon MZ 90CRI for you, and the 5000k LH351D 90CRI.

However, donā€™t you both forget that there is a large difference in how 3500k and below emitters are represented in pictures.

Emitters with low R9 values and high CRI values will tend to look on the orange side of things at 3500k and below CCTs. See the XM-L2 3000k 80CRI above. That is due to the green wavelengths of the light emitted mixing it with the red, giving it a bad orange look. Doesnā€™t look bad, but doesnā€™t look good either, even to my warm tinted eyes.

Emitters with high R9 values and high CRI will tend to look towards red at 3500k and below. See E21As and LH351B 3000k 90CRI. They look gorgeous, even on a white wall. It looks more realistic since red tones are less washed out, making it look more reddish in tones, giving it an incandescent tone.

I just keep cramming MT-G2ā€™s in everything Blue. :smiley:

Isnā€™t the reason for the MT-G2 having such a good beam because it works like a small COB LED chip?

And why itā€™s so biiig.

That looks amazing, nice choice! Iā€™d take 10 of those!

I keep trying to buy supposed 3000k but the manufacturerā€™s come out too yellow.

I guess will need to start making my own. Did the 20mm PCB fit the host without any convincing?

Kinda, yeah, itā€™s got 72 dies and dwarfs the 70.2. lol It can do a little over 16A direct drive for some 4300 lumens. Iā€™ve had them in all sorts of lights, even a chopped miniMag with 2 14250 cells. :smiley: (thatā€™s the 6V variant, I also have some 9V ones)

Iā€™ve tried a dozen different 3000k emitters. The Oslong Square 96CRI, E21A, and SST-20 is the best. I never tried the LH351B 3000k 90CRI though and never seen any test report on that but fear it might be above the BBL yellow/green like the other Samsungs. You can get a SST-20 3000k 90CRI triple on 20mm mcpcb from KD and just swap it in the TO46R. I modded three TO46R that way. Very easy to do and direct fit. No physical modifications necessary. The SST-20 3000k 90CRI looks beautiful in this host. Does not look yellow at all.

Eyes are individual things.

Older eyes are generally more frazzled, even if they started off perfect. Particularly if the owners have spent a lot of time outdoors without protection from UV and high intensity. They wear out. Look after them.

10% of male eyes are defective to begin with. 0.5% of female eyes.

The blue cones are most easily damaged, hence I suspect a preference among some older people for colder tints, to try to make up for what they have lost.

Try a quick check at e.g. Ishihara Test for Color Blindness to see where you might fit on the spectrum.

My other Wuben To46R is getting the LH351B 4000K 90+ CRI soon :smiley:
Texas-Ace is sending me one of his nifty Lumen Tubes and I want to measure the stock light before I mod it.

This was a super easy mod. The triple emitter, 20mm boards from mountain Electronics drop right in.
Remove tailcap and battery.
Unscrew the bezel. I pressed the bezel into a piece of foam and turned the body.
Pop the open tail-end of the light a couple of times with the palm of your hand to generate a slight increase in air pressure inside the light and the lens will drop out.
I used a fine tip pair of tweezers to remove the o ring and the optic fell right out.
Un-solder the red and black leads from the original triple emitter board, straighten the wires a bit so they donā€™t catch, and the emitter board drops right out.

Tom Tom, surprisingly enough I got all the tests correct. Didnā€™t expect to after so many years out in the Texas sun.

Edit: The explanations actually say that green colorblindness is by far the most common, with nearly 6% of all males so affected.

Losing blue cones in your retina would shift your color perception, but wouldnā€™t that make anything blue-shifted look dimmer?

From everything Iā€™ve seen in the flashlight community it seemed that it was more common for those older to have more preference for warmer lights.

Thank you! Looking forward to seeing more! I have heard, as SKV89 stated, that the Samsung LH351 has a green corona, though Iā€™m not sure which exact LED it was so hopefully you have a better outcome.

Also thanks SKV89 for the tips on emitters. Iā€™m going to order a few and get my Weller out this Winter!

I have recently used a lot of the Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K emitter, I donā€™t see this green that has been much ballyhooed about when used in reflectored lights or certain optics, other optics do indeed shift the tint. I donā€™t know if thatā€™s just the batch I got or what, but mine have been fairly pleasantly warm. This is a U6 power bin. The W6 power bin in 70 CRI 5000K is actually almost white and quite a bit stronger. I prefer this 70 CRI W6 to the 80 CRI U6, both in 5000K tint.