[Review] Olight S2R Baton II

I hadn’t noticed it in that way before , but , your right !

I realise that, I realise I don’t have to buy it, I’m just trying to understand what the fuss is - if people like it then good for them, enjoy, I’m just bemused by what the fuss is all about and trying to understand :slight_smile:

no worries…And to be honest I rarely ever charge my batteries in my flashlights or headlamps that support it as I prefer to charger them in my nitecore I8 chargers.I do this as always a little worries they may go boom whilst charging so would loose a flashlight etc. cheaper to replace battery and a charger…

I often charge the battery in-site, as it’s extremely handy when camping, or charging in the car etc.

I’m not sure the dual polarity cells in this light actually would work in a normal charger however, I’ve never seen them before…

Can you swap this proprietary cell out for a normal one?

you can use any cells you want to but can only charge an olight cell(that supports charging) in the flashlight and you can charge the supplied battery in any charger use wish…

Interesting, thanks for the info! I guess the contacts on the bottom (or top?) are connected to the protection circuit which does some kind of switching and allows the battery to be charged normally? Interesting design!

Are you sure about this?

Some chargers have “nubs” on their positive contacts that can actually put a direct short across the + center terminal and - ring terminal on the “charging end” of one of these proprietary Olight batteries.

I’ve charged all on my proprietary Olight batteries (16340, 18650 & 26650) in conventional chargers, but VERY carefully, using button magnets to extend the battery + center terminal out far enough so the charger contact can’t also short to the negative ring on the battery, and in the case of the 26650, I even made an insulating sleeve to cover the negative ring while it was in a charger, but magnets have been known to slip/jump around unexpectedly.

There’s no doubt in my mind that if I keep doing this, sooner or later I’m going to slip up and short the terminals on one of these batteries, and I can only hope the built in protection circuit will indeed save the battery (and my fingers) when that happens.

Never ever gave it a thought! Been using Olights for a few years and always just chucked them in my nitecore chargers….

But then what would be the point in producing a battery that you have to take extra care with when sticking them in a charger? Very few folks take notice on how they put them in a charger. Just stick em in make sure the light comes on for the bay and off you pop!

They make a lot of their lights for Military and security purposes so they would expect mass charging of batterys as that is more practicul and effiencient than charging the batteries seperately… For instance 4 of my team have the M2R(sam as me) and often after a callout we will just stick all are batteries in a charger together thus saving 4 plugs sockets as only one is required f for the charger…

Most folks only see a rechargable battery nothing more so they have the UG mentality…. Ug Charger Ug UG rechargable battery. UUUUUUG it fits Ug ug ug ug!

Just worth a thought…

Anyway loving the S2R II (yes charged battery in charger with the M2Rs) love the size, feel and beam now ordering a second one not becuase I need it but because the first one is lonely!

Agree, if it were a real problem, one would think there would be flames all over the internets, as well as the chargers. The battery protection PCB must be doing something.

The plastic separator ring between the + center button and the - charging contact ring on the “charging end” of the latest generation of Olight 16340 battery (ORB-16C05-010) seems to have gotten higher, which will definitely present a problem for some chargers, but it should be “safer” because it just won’t make contact, rather than shorting.

The Olight battery that scares me the most in terms of a potential shorting problem in a regular charger is the 26650 used in my R50 Pro Seeker. The charging contacts are on the opposite end from the 16340 and 18650 versions, they are both flush and have absolutely no raised separator ring/barrier between them.

Time will tell…

I’d think if it’s a problem, the supplied instruction manuals would at least be full of warnings, which I presume they’re not…

Only one way to find out, if you don’t post again in 48 hours we’ll call the emergency services for you :slight_smile:

Thought about it, but don’t have a big enough set of you know what :open_mouth:

You were last seen three days ago… just checking mate, are you still with us? :slight_smile:

Still working up the courage to try it.

I did do steel wool “test” on the dual terminal end of one of the latest Olight proprietary batteries and it was just like back in the good old days, when their tailcap charging lights could be used as emergency fire starters (before they changed them.) You have to take the battery out of one of these newer tailcap charging Olights if you want to start a fire now, what a hassle, easier to just use a Hakelite MT09R (no steel wool needed.)

Why do you need to take it out?
The terminals on the back of the flashlight connect directly to the battery.
There is live voltage on the back two contacts of the flashlight.

Olight added some form of protection to the tailcaps of the later model magnetic tailcap charging lights (diode or current limiter?). I had one of the earlier ones (H2R Nova) that that would ignite steel wool and they sent me a new tailcap, now it doesn’t, here’s rookieddys post about the problem Olight H2R Nova Quick Review (New Improved Tailcap Available Now!)

Oh ok.
Still can short the battery though…
Just not as dangerous high current I guess.

Yeah, a short across the batteries charging contact terminals can pull enough current to ignite steel wool but the you can’t do that across any of the recent Olight tailcap terminals I’ve encountered any more.

You can however read the battery voltage at the tailcap with a typical Digital Multimeter (DMM), but being relatively high input resistance, it really isn’t pulling much current at all. Whatever circuit they’ve added to the newer tailcaps keeps them from supplying enough current make sparks.

A battery that measures 4.016V directly across its terminals (“charging” AND conventional + & -), measures 4.006V across the tailcap contacts when installed in my S1R Baton II, which indicates there is some kind of circuitry in the tailcap…

Is this really a budget light at $69.99 !? :frowning: I would like to acquire one , although at a hefty discount .

Depends on when you buy it I guess. I purchased one for $42.24 just a week ago on sale for the holidays.

Wow! ( I’m envious . ) I would consider that to be in the budget pricing category . Why can’t I ever pick one up during a flash sale !? ( I did get a M2R for 20% off though . ) Do you have any idea when their next flash sale is likely to be offered ?