I re-did my wiring for current measurement and got now results from 7.0A up to 7.7A, which might be nearer the real value. [I'm still not sure about the wiring.. It might still restrict the current a bit?]
Holding the wires and operating camera at the same time isn't easy, but here's some kind of proof of the measurement:
And as I was at it, I thought that I would measure the beam intensity at the same time (@4m, calculated back to 1m):
Part of DRY's sag may by battery related though, it's direct drive, whereas I think I've seen an image of the KING's driver which has coils, so I guess it uses three buck drivers and thus is regulated.
It those pics are posted correctly than the DRY is easily brighter. Modded to 6.5A? I hope that really is a joke Will that even realistically make a noticeable difference? Sure seems like a waste based on the XM-L chart and the law of diminishing return is replaced by the law of negative return, haha.
I meant the mouse over pics were opposite of the post above them, but now they're not. i checked like 3 times before i posted.. it must have been my browser
My King NW is a bit brighter than my DRY NW, when using the cells I used, in the temperature I tested them etc.
The bottom line is that both of them are bright.
After that it's more about personal preferences:
- Side vs. Tail clicky? [Side]
- Gold vs. Black? [Hmm.. It's not really gold, something between gold & bronze, and it's different -> Gold]
- Body design? [King, for sure!]
- Electric vs. Mechanical switch? [Electric is fine]
- Do you need the med mode? [Well.. I can live without it]
- Does double-click to off bother you? [Less than going through all the modes in DRY to see that it was really left on Turbo]
- Do you need the additional runtime provided by fourth cell in King? [Not really, but it doesn't harm either]
So, right now, my choice would be the King. But DRY is not bad either, so I simply love having them both!