OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

I wonder, how well would smaller reflector lights throw with this emitter!
For example, S2+ with SMO reflector and this led, and lets say 5A driver, what throw would we get!

Btw, I measured the hotspot of my Cometa mod at 8800K. I checked a LX1010B luxmeter against my Mobilux class A luxmeter, for this hotspot my LX1010B (that for neutral leds under-reads) measures 340 kcd which is more than 13% high (LX1010B calibrations may vary :stuck_out_tongue: )

The led is on the stock board and is about as thick as the stock XP-L Hi, so the focus is fine.

Moon

Moon meets Flat White

Tree meets Flat White

Pretty intense focused spot

Kodi wants the Turbo Flat White…he is eye balling it Intensely….

Not finished yet. So just reporting some info for those wanting to swap this emitter into a MF04. Used a thin solder layer as recommended and lapped the stock MCPCB and the emitter shelf. Used an old MT07 buck driver set to 4 amps. Using the stock MF04 reflector isolation ring the beam is not quite focused. At the moment, the emitter is not quite centered (but appears close) and it is visible in the beam. The hot spot is not sharply defined. I only measured 1.3kcd at 10.85 meters. I can't find my favorite light meter to verify this reading. The light is way too big for my integrating tube. So no lumen measurements to report. No indications of thermal sage noted.

Not sure what direction I need to move the emitter yet. I think it's too high in to the reflector. The heat sinking with the large MCPCB and host makes me think I can probably up the current to 4.75-5 amps. Any suggestions on that from you folks using this emitter in bigger lights yet?

I'll report on progress when I get another chance to work on the light. If anyone has converted and MF04, please report what worked or didn't work for you.

EDIT: Stock isolation ring is focused. Centering the emitter was all that was needed.

Measure it from at least 15-20m. the reflector/led size ratio is huge so need big distance for measurement.

I checked the PM1 (so with the larger rectangular die) in my Lumintop mini-GT. Previously it had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B that throwed 235 kcd. With the PM1 (well focussed, perfect beam) I had to remove all bypasses and use a not fully charged GA cell to avoid the purple tint, and I got 238 kcd max, even still 235 kcd with the GA cell at 3.7 V.

So no throw gains over the dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B (well, it does maintain throw much better) but the tint is better without the green hue.

But still the PM1 will have to go because the mini-GT driver does not like the extreme low voltage PM1, during the complete low side of the ramp the led does not light up at all, not just on the 7135 but also into the FET region of the ramp (as reported by the blinking of the switch light). So well into the FET region I first get light but very low at first, I measured 12 lumen, so that is halfway the ramp, from there going up.

(Edit: after later swapping to dedomed XP-G2 again, the problem of the led not lighting up at the low side of the ramp persisted, so I have a driver problem :frowning: ).

I did not measure amps btw, it was easy to spot by the led tint when the current got too high.

I will put a dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D led in the mini-GT next, both good tint and throw.

Even without bypasses and not fully charged GA you could still be over point of max. brightness with this LED (Vf at 8.5A <3.3V), so conclusion that there are "no throw gains over the dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B" is incomplete at best.

When tested with bench supply, this LED works like any other, light up at 1mA and much lower that that.

I have no problem with GT mini driver. Have moon mode normally.

That is a weird result that I get then, I assumed that the GT driver responded badly to the low voltage of the PM1 but if other people find normal driver behaviour there must be something specific different in my case, I would not know what.

@led4power, with the GA cell still at 3.8 V resting voltage (3.7 V was when the cell was not yet recovered from high drain), I measure 6.65 A with the clamp meter, with tail off. So with tail on (unbypassed spring) it will be a bit less. The tint was normal (no hint of purple) and I promise that I used not too much solder this time to reflow the led :wink:

I’m usually not that much into cool tints, but at max the tint is a really good cool white btw, 69CRI, 6800K and slightly under the BBL.

In that case LED is underdriven (maybe 4-5Amps), so kcd numbers similar to XPG2 S4 make sense, but in that case it's strange to hear from you ""no throw gains over the dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B", when you know you didn't drive this LEDs close to its maximum (unlike XPG2 S4).

I think with tail on it is still closer to 6A than 4-5 amps, but in any case I did not make a general claim about this led but it was about what it did with my mini-GT compared to the led that was in there before, in the way that I built it. Still, I’m curious what other people find about the PM1.

Ok, I went ‘back’ to a dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D (as claimed by intl-outdoor) and applied all the bypasses again and what is extremely annoying is that the driver still shows the problem of not lighting the led up at the low side of the ramp. So this is not a problem caused by the PM1 (at least it is not gone when swapping the PM1 again). I will have to beg Neal for a new driver again (the mini-GT has not been a succes for me thusfar).
The tint is now yellowish but pretty ok (no green although well above the BBL, duv +0.012, 4100K) and I measure 225 kcd.

A duv of 0.012 is not too bad ;).

Maybe the 7135 died.

I just put white flat into my SR95S UT, Vf measured 3.28v, a little bit above my target 3.25v.
Compared to my BLF GT at 30 meter just now, it is 725kcd vs 938kcd, about 835 otf lumens.
It is not easy to get it focus precisely, and i didn’t aim for perfect focus to save myself from OCD cycles. :smiley:

It is quite white not as blue as picture shown below.

I would say it has same or slightly better performance than his smaller brother but at much higher currents… Seeing is believing… I believe what I see and what I build… New Osram White flat 2mm driven at around 9A has same performance as smaller brother but that is in first 10 seconds… I am not doing 30 second test like Djozz…

So yes it is quite possible that at 6A Osram White Flat 2mm equals in performance with old g2s42bdd…

So I will repost again Mine redneck test of Osram White Flat 2mm.

Fully charged Samsung INR 30 Q. Single cell 18650 light with FET Djozz driver. around 5-10 seconds on lux meter.

4.2V, 13.4A, 930 FC

4.0V, 12.5A, 950 FC 950FC same performance as XP-G2 S4 2B DD driven at 4.7A.

3.9V, 11.4A,1050 FC

3.8V, 10A, 1250 FC

3.7V, 9.20A, 1200 FC

3.6V, 8.20A, 1150 FC

3.4V, 7A , 1100 FC

So as you see I got best performance somewhere around 9-10A…

So of course it could equal in performance with G2 at 6A current draw but it surely has potential to beat it up in right host…

This obviously ain’t emitter for mine FET single 18650 builds but it should be OK for any chunky regulated multi cell flashlight. I recommend 9A or slightly more current draw if you have proper host that can transfer all that heat properly…

Maybe still my reflows are worse than yours so that I can not get better performance past 6A and I have to practice on that. :slight_smile:

No… I don’t think so.

Just put INR 30Q inside for testing purposes.

At really high powers I get worse performance than others on my led tests too, and I’m thinking that one possible reason is a slightly thicker solder layer than others. I use no solder stencil, and when after melting of the solder I push on the led a slight bit of solder (by no means thick blobs) can be squeezed out so I do not use the absolute minimum.