FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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Tom Tom
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Geuzzz wrote:
No led light with 5$ discount? I will change the emitters anyway, so I will let others decide.

That would just be a host, but including the interesting DEL driver and TK firmware, and maybe an MCPCB.

It won’t work with any other driver, it is an integrated design, the only straightforward modding potential is emitter swaps, firmware tweaks and TIR changes.

Difficult to see how that could be attractive to Lumintop, Just buy the cheapest version and get on with it, assuming that they are not glued up tight, like the GT.

Best just see it as a complete sealed torch, and buy a version that will do. It’s already modded to the max. (maybe beyond), difficult to see how to improve. Which is the point, and attraction, of the thing. The hard work has (hopefully) already been done.

Otherwise DIY a triple on e.g. a Convoy host, same result, maybe slightly better performance, but it will cost at least as much in parts, even if you know what you are doing, don’t make any mistakes, and don’t cost your time and materials, and tools.

Any news on what surface finish has been chosen ?

Ragsy
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I vote 2
- I’m in no rush

I follow where my mind goes

P33
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Frankly, I think that having 2 LED options makes a lot of sense, just like for example Emisar does. If the XP-L is the first one to be out then fine, I’ll probably wait for the high CRI option with Samsung LEDs reading first reviews before ordering.
It’d just be sad if the light would be available with ONLY Cree emiters.

CRX
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XP-L HI, I don’t want to have to mod this thing Innocent

Tom Tom
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CRX wrote:
XP-L HI, I don’t want to have to mod this thing Innocent

Surely you jest Wink

Geuzzz
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Tom Tom wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
No led light with 5$ discount? I will change the emitters anyway, so I will let others decide.

That would just be a host, but including the interesting DEL driver and TK firmware, and maybe an MCPCB.

It won’t work with any other driver, it is an integrated design, the only straightforward modding potential is emitter swaps, firmware tweaks and TIR changes.

Difficult to see how that could be attractive to Lumintop, Just buy the cheapest version and get on with it, assuming that they are not glued up tight, like the GT.

Best just see it as a complete sealed torch, and buy a version that will do. It’s already modded to the max. (maybe beyond), difficult to see how to improve. Which is the point, and attraction, of the thing. The hard work has (hopefully) already been done.

Otherwise DIY a triple on e.g. a Convoy host, same result, maybe slightly better performance, but it will cost at least as much in parts, even if you know what you are doing, don’t make any mistakes, and don’t cost your time and materials, and tools.

Any news on what surface finish has been chosen ?

Like I said, without the LEDs :). But I will wait for the cheaper Samsung LEDs and change the emitters. Option 3

teacher
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Option #3…. make the XP-L HI model now. Wait on the Samsung model until the proper LH151D can be obtained.
Or…. just put a 5000K LH351D in it if they are available in a nice Rosy tint. Wink
.

Option #3

  • “3. Make the XP-L HI model now, and do the LH351D lights later”.

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Xoroxronis
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Vote for…
make the XP-L HI model now.

chadvone
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Hi Now.

gottawearshades
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HI now, high CRI with good tint when possible.

cabfrank
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Assuming it has been finalized that there will be two emitter options, I absolutely think one should be made now, if that is possible, and the other should be delayed until it can be made without comprising on tint.

Gunga
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Option 3 please. Hi now. Better tint Samsung later.

zak.wilson
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I’m with everyone else: make the XP-L HI first and wait for Samsungs with nice tint. As I’ll be going for the Samsung version, this will allow other people to find any problems with the first batch.

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Henk4U2
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My preferred option is:

Go for the XP-L HI lights right now, and worry about the LH351D lights later.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

nvanlaar
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XP-L HI now, LH351D later.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

toddcshoe
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I am all for the XP-L Hi as well, as long as it isn’t 4000K. 5000K or a bit better is good with me. So if the XP-L is going to be 4000K I would wait for the Samsung emitter if it’s going to be 5000K or better. If both are going to be 4000K then I would prefer a light without any emitters at all. If none of that is a option I will buy another D4.

teacher
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toddcshoe wrote:
I am all for the XP-L Hi as well, as long as it isn’t 4000K. 5000K or a bit better is good with me. So if the XP-L is going to be 4000K I would wait for the Samsung emitter if it’s going to be 5000K or better. If both are going to be 4000K then I would prefer a light without any emitters at all. If none of that is a option I will buy another D4.
Good question…. Thumbs Up
  • Is the XP-L HI going to be ‘at least 5000K’ (or a bit more??)

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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KawiBoy1428
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Release the XP-L V3HI 5000k or better and may God have Mercy on my Soul… I want it….I want to use it…. or at least have it, before I’m DEAD! Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

ajohn151
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Is it too late to get on the list? If not please add me to the list.

Thanks,
Ajohn151

JasonWW
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pepinfaxera wrote:
Remember. BLF-GT, agreed price + PayPal commission.

Shipping included (except some countries / destinations).

Suppose fw3a 30 / 36 shipping included + PayPal commission (except some destinations).


The reason the GT needed extra shipping costs for certain countries was due to its very large size and weight. Some countries cost $70 to $90 to ship it and Lumintop did not know this in advance.

This little light is not going to have such crazy high shipping costs. Lumintop has shipped thousands of lights this small, so there should not be any shipping cost surprises.

The reason there was a PayPal fee was because the GT was bought through Neal’s personal account and from the fact Lumintop estimated a too low Group Buy price way before they knew the total cost of the light to make and the shipping costs. They lost money on the early lights and made a tiny bit on the later ones. Lumintop could not afford to pay the fee themselves as they would have lost even more money.

Fast forward to the FW3A, I don’t think we have to worry about extra PayPal fees as the final price is not announced yet. So far it is just an estimated price. I guess they have learned their lesson on locking in prices too early.

We should get a firm price closer to the actual sale. This way there should be no “extra” fees involved.

Tom Tom wrote:

Difficult to see how that could be attractive to Lumintop, Just buy the cheapest version and get on with it, assuming that they are not glued up tight, like the GT.


The GT (and GT70) contains zero glue. Maybe you meant the GT Mini which had a glued bezel.

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Meyer
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ToyKeeper wrote:

So which do you think would be better:

Option 3
(Good things come to those who wait)
Mr.Beam
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please count me in for 2 hi cri models Smile
i vote for option no.2 to wait a while longer for better tint!
many thanks for all your efforts Smile
ikaruz_500
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Hello, I vote for:

XP-L HI now, LH351D later.

I’m on the TLF Interest List.

Minocc
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I would like the XP-L HI now, and the other later. It will be easier on my wallet to do two ~$30 purchases than one ~$60 one.

Kafuzke
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ToyKeeper wrote:
# Make the XP-L HI model now, and do the LH351D lights later.

That is my choice

Greetings from Germany

Curetia
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teacher wrote:
Option #3…. make the XP-L HI model now. Wait on the Samsung model until the proper LH151D can be obtained.
Or…. just put a 5000K LH351D in it if they are available in a nice Rosy tint. Wink
.

Option #3

  • “3. Make the XP-L HI model now, and do the LH351D lights later”.

That is my favorite option too Cool
Eraursls1984
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ToyKeeper wrote:
  1. Make the lights now, using parts from Digikey. Based on Bob’s small sample, the tint might be above the BBL.
  2. Wait ~6 weeks until a more specific tint bin can be obtained from the manufacturer.
  3. Make the XP-L HI model now, and do the LH351D lights later.


Option 2 is the best and option 3 is the second best option. Option 1 is not an option.

Or, option 3 with 4000K XP-L HI first, and 5000K 351D’s after that. This is the best option.
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For me.

Nagonka
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XP-L now, 351D later Thumbs Up

pepinfaxera
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Option 3 please.
.
. XP-L Hi .

Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)

SKV89
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I don’t mind either Option 2 or 3 but definitely not Option 1.

Please do not use any of the LH351D currently available in the FW3A. They are all too green. The groupbuys were T6 and T7 bins that were supposed to be at or below the BBL but in reality, they are all much above the BBL resulting in the yellow or green tint as shown in the Bob McBob’s comparison TK posted earlier. Please note that the few E21A 4000k flashlights I have don’t look anywhere that rosy and the LH351D is even more green than in the pics. Really hope Neal can source T1, T2, T3, T4 bin. I don’t mind waiting. I rather have perfect emitters to begin with so no need to mod.

Another option besides the Samsungs are the Luminus SST-20-W 95CRI. The 4000k sold on Kaidomain is the FB4 bin, which is far above the BBL. Fireflies is using the FA3 bin in the ROT66 and that was reported to have some slight green and requires minus green filter to perfect. If Neal can source the FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4, it should give the Nichia 9080 appearance but with better performance vs 219B.

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