Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

ToyKeeper, Yes, I somehow missed that in the new Anduril there are fixed brightness steps. I have no steps on the Emisar D4 with the old version Anduril.
In any case, on my Q8 Narsil 1.0 and I will be interested in doing the tests. If I can get a positive result, it may be useful to someone else.

Unless you flashed the firmware, the Emisar D4 doesn’t have Anduril. The Emisar D4, D1, and D1S ship with RampingIOS V2, which is a simplified fork of an old version of Narsil. It only does smooth ramping.

The Emisar D4S ships with RampingIOS V3, which is a simplified fork of Anduril. It adds some things, like Anduril’s fixed brightness steps, but it still lacks a lot of Anduril’s other features.

The only stock lights with Anduril so far are from Fireflies. However, there should also be some soon from Sofirn and Lumintop. And maybe Emisar, if I can ever get Hank to use it.

ToyKeeper, Oh, how much I did not know. Thanks for the elucidation.

Anduril has that too. You can even configure the number of steps.

In Ramping:
Double klick to Turbo, then double klick again

In Modes:
Hold
:wink:

And the FW3A with Andúril will be released any moment.
(or in a few months)

I looked it up right after posting. The problem is I always have to look it up, because I forget. Same with accessing and using the config mode. I generally need to have the manual in front of me.

To me it's a natural progression dbl click to turbo, dbl click to strobe. From there it's standard mode (non-ramping) operation - this causes confusion for those not used to regular mode usage. I've used the Werner style mode operations for couple years before ramping, so again, all seemed to be logical.

Guess it's only intuitive to me...

I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.

Well, it may not be intuitive. But who wants intuitive access to strobe anyway? Not this guy! It’s good enough that strobe is easy to get to. It doesn’t have to be intuitive to use. That’s what manuals are for. I want all the intuitive things to be things I’m going to use regularly. :smiley:

Idk if youre interested, but I have a strobe free build of Anduril on my Q8. Ill flash it for the cost of postage if you want.

That is ever so true. My wife and I have minds are diametrically opposed when it comes to some everyday things, but completely in sync in other areas.

Can we get a Q8 in gold? like this:

Isn’t that a gold chrome plating?

I'm told here by the mech engineers it's gold anodizing - believe vendor told me it's anodizing (hint: they are in Houston). Some of the parts are 6061, some are 7075, so the tint varies from part to part.

Ohh - another view/hint:

Dang, may have to delete these pics real soon...

Sofirn has this gold on the SF34.


.

Wonder though if they can do with a better quality. I got a similar gold SRK clone, but I always thought it was cheaper anodizing from the Q8 - like $25 for 12 LED's (fakes of course). It looks like Sofirn is not making these, but reselling from a cheaper source. This is mine (my pic):

And an old group shot:

I like my gold SRK. It’s a nice-looking light, even though a lot of its design is superfluous. At some point, I should upgrade it again; the last mod didn’t work out quite how I hoped.

It has a nice Q8 prototype driver inside, but I tried to do some tint mixing and it didn’t mix well. So it needs new emitters. I also have a black SRK of the same old vintage, in need of new springs and a new driver. Too many projects…

It seems near London they can do it
http://www.metroplating.co.uk/sulphuric-acid-anodising.php
(under select page you see the difference ano techniques)

Astrolux A01 had a nice orange on the light. Someone in China can do it.

So I just got a Q8 and am considering putting Anduril in it. I have heard it requires no soldering, just two screws to remove the driver. There are a few versions in the toybox, should I just use the latest? Also figuring I don’t need to reset any fuses?

Yes. If you don’t have any specific things you want to change about the firmware, just grab the latest and flash it without modifying the fuse values.