If you swap out emitters please take some photos of they event. I need all the help I can get if I give it a try.
Will do for sure. I got some info and pics from another thread on this light. I think I got a good handle on it in my head. Now I just have to see if my hands and eyes will cooperate. I think the main concern was that there are two resistors and a post that makes contact with the battery also on the MCPCB. Other than making sure those don’t fall off as you are reflowing, everything else should go as normal. I was going to use a few different sized alligator clips to hold all the parts in place as I heat the board to remove and replace the emitter. As soon as the solder solidifies again I should be able to remove my little clips and everything should stay in place. If my eyes hold up on me I should be okay. Getting older with already bad eyesight in general really sucks. 
What about applying a little super glue on the components to hold them?
Can easily dissolve it later if need be.
Just a thought.
I used a hot air station so can't give you much advice. I took the pics below. From what someone else said, the bottom post seems to be soldered on, but I don't know myself because on mine, it stayed in place from the reflow. I dunno what that black stuff is around the post though - looks strange to me. If you use an iron, or a torch (I've used a torch before for reflowing, just have to be careful and keep your distance with it), even if the solder for the resistors melt, as along as you are near level, they will stay in place fine.
Only way I can think of using an iron would be to first remove the post, then heat up the MCPCB below the LED - may take a while and probably need to wet the iron tip, but dunno, you may have a mess there to get the post re-connected. There's some risks for sure, which is why I saw the hot air station as the best option. I'm doing all my reflows with hot air now, but I have to really crank up the temp to like 480 F to get the heat through a decent MCPCB if done from below, but even from the top it's tough because the copper MCPCB's are so efficient in conducting that heat away.
I reflowed with generic iron with flat tip and didn’t remove the post. Nothing felt off. I’ll share pictures later.
UPS just dropped off my new flashlight about an hour ago. The Folomov included battery is happily charging at one amp. I used a battery I just had sitting around to test out the flashlight. My photos do not do justice to how yellow/orange the beam tint is. So far no dreaded blue shift. I really like how small the flashlight is. I would like the smaller flashlights posted earlier but hey this was a good price. My first small 18650 flashlight. I like it so much I purchased one more. I am weak. Getting used to the UI but no problem. The free charger also arrived.
Just got a second 18650S and it does the same thing. Highest setting turns bright white then a blue halo comes in at about 1 to 2 seconds then it dims slightly. Exactly as my first one does. Weird. At some point I will change the emmiters. Everything else works great just as long as I don’t use the highest setting.
That won’t work.
In my experience, super glue tends to melt when the temperature of the part it’s glued to is hot enough to melt solder. If you try gluing those parts on with super glue, you’ll probably just end up with a sticky mess and it will still fall apart.
Keeping the resistors from falling off is easy… just keep the star rightside up. The only hard part is the post. I used a hot air reflow station and the post still fell off. Fortunately, I didn’t have much trouble putting it back on using my vise arrangement.
I wonder if this light could be converted to a triple
From prior posts, it looks like it pulls around 3.6 amps and that’s with resistors. Would it be possible to replace the stock star with a chopped down triple star without the resistors for even more output? I’m not sure it would work, but if it did it might make a nice pocket rocket.
Hard part would be getting the star to fit together with its oddly place negative wire, positive post and screw holes. Might be easier to install a copper heatsink below the triple star. Also without the screws, the battery spring would be pressing directly on the lens, which isn’t a good way to have a long lasting light.
I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.
Typically I don’t use “Turbo” hardly ever and it produces plenty of light on Turbo its just that some lights seem to do it (most) and some dont. Curious as to what causes it actually. It definately gets hot quickly while in the higher modes.
You do need the one resistor - it's what supplies power to the driver.
I ran some tests, only with a fully charged cell did I get the blue shift in turbo, it takes about 5 seconds and the light gets extremely hot. After the cell lost some voltage the shift stopped occuring, but now the overall tint seems much cooler than when it first was tried out yesterday, in fact it seems to change tint slightly as you go up in power, this is very odd, never had a light do this in 10 years since Ive been buying LED’s.
I also tested battery capacity, came in at 2585 mah, is rated at 2600, IR averaged about 095-110
It is a bit distorted by my cell phone lens but this is what my 219D emitter looks like.
Could it be a fake 219D LED?
Mine looks the same
I took the the ICR-18650-26F out of the flashlight and measured the voltage with my Ideal-61-310 multimeter. It is at 4.06 volts. This battery has never been used and has been sitting around for almost 4 years. I did notice when tightening down the tail cap the flashlight has about 1 second burst of whiter than normal light. For me this happened 5 times in a row.
I have decided if the dreaded blue shift happens on either of my 18650s’s I will be interested in hiring a BFL member to do the LED surgery needed to replace the 219d.
I’m only seeing blue shift at 4.20ish volts, this is a very quirky light, I really like the small size and low cost deal we got, but there is a lot of room for improvement, I think a larger diameter head would help with the heat.
Here is a picture of the beam pattern on my white basement wall. You can not see the large ring of no light just inside of the outer corona which you also can not see. The timer feature works well. The diffuser cone was purchased from Simon's Convoy store.