Just got a second 18650S and it does the same thing. Highest setting turns bright white then a blue halo comes in at about 1 to 2 seconds then it dims slightly. Exactly as my first one does. Weird. At some point I will change the emmiters. Everything else works great just as long as I don’t use the highest setting.
That won’t work.
In my experience, super glue tends to melt when the temperature of the part it’s glued to is hot enough to melt solder. If you try gluing those parts on with super glue, you’ll probably just end up with a sticky mess and it will still fall apart.
Keeping the resistors from falling off is easy… just keep the star rightside up. The only hard part is the post. I used a hot air reflow station and the post still fell off. Fortunately, I didn’t have much trouble putting it back on using my vise arrangement.
I wonder if this light could be converted to a triple
From prior posts, it looks like it pulls around 3.6 amps and that’s with resistors. Would it be possible to replace the stock star with a chopped down triple star without the resistors for even more output? I’m not sure it would work, but if it did it might make a nice pocket rocket.
Hard part would be getting the star to fit together with its oddly place negative wire, positive post and screw holes. Might be easier to install a copper heatsink below the triple star. Also without the screws, the battery spring would be pressing directly on the lens, which isn’t a good way to have a long lasting light.
I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.
Typically I don’t use “Turbo” hardly ever and it produces plenty of light on Turbo its just that some lights seem to do it (most) and some dont. Curious as to what causes it actually. It definately gets hot quickly while in the higher modes.
You do need the one resistor - it's what supplies power to the driver.
I ran some tests, only with a fully charged cell did I get the blue shift in turbo, it takes about 5 seconds and the light gets extremely hot. After the cell lost some voltage the shift stopped occuring, but now the overall tint seems much cooler than when it first was tried out yesterday, in fact it seems to change tint slightly as you go up in power, this is very odd, never had a light do this in 10 years since Ive been buying LED’s.
I also tested battery capacity, came in at 2585 mah, is rated at 2600, IR averaged about 095-110
It is a bit distorted by my cell phone lens but this is what my 219D emitter looks like.
Could it be a fake 219D LED?
Mine looks the same
I took the the ICR-18650-26F out of the flashlight and measured the voltage with my Ideal-61-310 multimeter. It is at 4.06 volts. This battery has never been used and has been sitting around for almost 4 years. I did notice when tightening down the tail cap the flashlight has about 1 second burst of whiter than normal light. For me this happened 5 times in a row.
I have decided if the dreaded blue shift happens on either of my 18650s’s I will be interested in hiring a BFL member to do the LED surgery needed to replace the 219d.
I’m only seeing blue shift at 4.20ish volts, this is a very quirky light, I really like the small size and low cost deal we got, but there is a lot of room for improvement, I think a larger diameter head would help with the heat.
Here is a picture of the beam pattern on my white basement wall. You can not see the large ring of no light just inside of the outer corona which you also can not see. The timer feature works well. The diffuser cone was purchased from Simon's Convoy store.
So we should not use fully charged and high drain cells in the flashlight.
well I tried the A1 charger on the included battery, it topped off at 4.15 volts, tint shift still happening and the head gets so hot you can’t even hold it after 15 seconds on turbo. not sure what to do with this guy, it obviously has some serious design flaws and I can see it burning out after awhile…then again the $16 for light, battery and charger was quite cheap but maybe so cheap because they know about the flaws and want to get rid of stock?
The tail cap threads are also sub-par, there’s only a few rows and it can be tricky to screw on with the battery inside. I removed the factory grease which was kinda smelly and thick, and put superlube on, but it didnt help much
Just got my Amazon ordered one today. Have another on the way from Banggood. It’s a pretty neat light. I was worried about the 3000k tint and the weird stuff happening when using Turbo. I have to say, I was never a fan of warm tints but, it is pretty decent for around the house stuff. I don’t know if it’s a high CRI emitter or not but it seems to render colors pretty good. I also didn’t notice any overheating or bluing of the beam when using Turbo. I kept it on Turbo for about 2 minutes. It got really warm but not to the point of not being able to hold it. It slowly got warmer and warmer as it was left on. There wan no super fast or instant increase in temp. My IR thermometer has been misplaced and I can’t find it so I can’t give a real temp. You could still grab the head with your hand after 2 minutes but it is nice and toasty.
I don’t really care about the emitter in the light still in the mail. That emitter will be replaced anyway, but I think I will keep the emitter in this one for now and play with it some more and see if I take to the 3000k.
Great deal and I love the size. The UI is different but super easy to get use to. I like how the beacon mode ramps up and fades back out. Different for sure. So far I think it’s worth the $15 and change I paid for a light, cell, and cool little charger.
I think the beacon mode and timer feature are the lights best points. I like the tint not because it is pretty but it’s easy on the eyes.
It is definitely easy on the eyes. I forgot about the timer feature. I will have to try that out.
what was battery voltage when you tried it?