OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

Very confusing, but liked KW CSLPM1.TG – 2mm2 :person_facepalming: a lot in C8+.

Is there any reasonable 60-70mm reflector or aspheric still in production that isn’t like $125+?

I did see this which looks like a slightly modified version of some other generic lights:

http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/ballista-30/

So I put a 2mm² version in my Amutorch JM70.
I don’t trust my intensity numbers, but at 5m my “ceilingbounce” app says :
Before (XP-L HI) : 270kCd
After (CSLPM1.TG) : 555kCD ?!
Same distance, same phone, same all except for the LED… awesome !

I also put a 1mm² in my Cometa :
Before (FET driver + XP-L HI) 200 kCd
After (2,8A 8*7135 Biscotti driver + CSLNM1.TG) : 280kCd

EDIT : My B158B now rocks an 1mm² one too, and a 2,8A Biscotti driver : 345kCd !

High current is not required to get some serious throw with this LED :smiley:

Seem that you managed to pump it up 105,56 % footballfields.
I modded my C8 up 80,88 % Convoy C8+ New look for an old favorite - #144 by Talpa
This is with calibrated luxmeter.

can i help you with something for buy ?

Makes me want to buy more 1mm2 white flat.

I don’t know what luxmeter you use but your results are somewhat closer to mine first redneck test(you even got slightly higher results than myself)…

For me B158 goes 430kcd with 5.5 5.8A current draw and when it falls somewhere at 3A(fet driver) it is equalized in performance with de domed G2 s4 2b(driven at 4.7A I have 330kcd in B158 with g2).

For bigger host like SR95S UT of mine that measures to have Vf of 3.28v(I didn’t measure current but should be around 4.5A according to djozz’s graph), BLF GT heat up faster than my mod when I hold them left and right high on my shoulders for ten minutes or so. I think it should be fine for big host to up the current to 5A.

Dang, this thread is long and confusing, unfortunately I don’t have the time to read all posts. I just found the collected voltage vs current and output diagrams in the first post and thought this LEDs could be usable for a 3D printed “kids save” thrower with 3x Eneloop and couple of 7135, perhaps in combination with a 60.0mm Ultra Narrow Catadioptric (10158). Is this a good idea? There are at least 2 similar LEDs mentioned here, which one would be the best choice?

^ yes this is a good led for a low current/power thrower.

But we already had the (dedomed) XP-E2 for that, not many modders have used that led but I have build quite a few nice small throwers with it over the years.

This KW CSLNM1-TG is much more capable though, with its low voltage even with small batteries it reaches its maximum power.

Thanks!
I have to order some components now …

If you want larger emitter his larger brother white flat 2mm may be even better for same configuration.

Oh…

I will change thread name and put both in first post so it will not be so confusing….

But it needs more current, I guess?
I’m thinking of a light with a separate LED for flood and perhaps another one for RGB output. I still have two XM-L RGBW LEDs lying around and a couple of spare S2+ reflectors. 3D printing added a lot of options.

I edited thread name and I added White Flat 1mm& White Flat 2mm aka OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (1mm2) & Osram KW CSLPM1.TG (2mm2) in first post of this thread. Both Djozz tests are in first post of thread.

So you got 110kcd at 4A in a C8 with the 2mm white flat. That doesn’t sound that good since 4.5A with a dedomed XPG2 will get around 170kcd.

I just did some measurements using a bench power supply on a 2mm white flat I got from mouser. The output peaked at 8.25A. In an EE X6 head I measured 109kcd at 6A. This beam intensity was a bit disappointing. The focus was good, so I can’t explain why it’s low.

Just wondering what 4 of those 1mm² LEds will do in a TN40S

the driver is boost from 2S to 12V at 4A, so the LEDs will be in a pretty good range driven

^ Good idea!

is the OSLON BLACK still good In say a MINI GT, or could the FLAT white replace it still?
any advantage?
thanks.

Given the similar performances and prices, I would go for the new White Flat just to avoid any problem with grounding issues…
I put some black flats in my Emisar D1 and D1S, but some strange behaviors are to be expected :
when I wrap my hand on the D1, which is equipped with a SS clip (clipped) I have a faint glow on the LED if I put my thumb on the switch bezel :disappointed: the slight conductivity of the skin is enough to allow some low current between ground (via the clip) and the MCPCB…
That means that you can’t throw the light in a pocket full of keys/coins because it could power ON on direct drive…

The white flat is easy to use, with no short between thermal pad and cathode so I’ll now choose it for any thrower (aspheric first, of course)

Go with the white flat, it has a neutral thermal pad so you don’t need to worry about any insulation or other things.
Also Led4power sells them already reflowed onto MCPCBs so you don’t need to do it yourself and possibly end up with a bad reflow or dead LED.