Conical are not very useful due to their small mass and small contact points. If they don’t perform well enough, you might buy some chisel tips. They have larger mass at the tip and can make better contact.
The wire you have has flux inside it. It burns away quickly so you want to feed the solder/flux into the joint. Having extra flux makes everything flow better and gives nicer performance. The videos I posted explain it.
My satellite internet is to slow for vids. Next time I’m in town I will check them out.
Thank You Jason
I’m having déjà vu. Wierd
Anyway, something you might try when you get wifi access is to download all the videos from YouTube using www.keepvid.work
I use it all the time to download 720p resolution videos to watch when I’m away from wifi. You get a popup junk page once per video, but it’s no big deal to me.
I’ve been using Kester 44 since the late 60’s. At first, I was using 60/40. Then in the 70’s I switched over SN63 (63/37). SN63 gives a brighter finish than 60/40 from my experience. That being said, I wouldn’t be caught dead using lead-free solder. It sucks big time.
Well, my new Weller will be here Monday directly from The Amazon.com. I will give an update on how it does.
I’m debating on unsoldering a couple of the mods I have done in the past week, I’m a perfectionist and the solders are on the ugly side.
Thank You to all and I really appreciate all the great advice.
Adding additional flux will help with that.
Don’t forget “adequate ventilation” is defined, it doesn’t just mean “whatever”
Get a syringe of the translucent flux grease.
Good stuff, smells of pine tree resin. 
Good. :+1:
But sometimes you encounter lead free solder used by the manufacturer of whatever you decide to solder.
Yep, that too. 
Just emphasising it for the solder noobs who may have been persuaded by the ecological and health fear porn.
I think i would be less healthy if i had to use lead free solder.
I’d probably get an ulcer…
There are different brands and formulations of flux. Like with any type of product, there are companies that try to make it cheaper at the expense of quality. So you want to stick to good brands like MG Chemicals, Kester, SRA, etc… if you want good performance.
I’ve tried the syringe applicator and find it a real pain to use. It’s hard to control the amount that comes out and after you set it down it will still be oozing out the end. What I did was find a small air tight container and squirted a bunch in there. Then I use a toothpick to apply just a tiny bit on the joint. Works nicely.
MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser (Complete with Plunger & Dispensing Tip)
Good flux in a tub. Apply with toothpick:
MECHANIC MCN-UV80
The flux pens are pretty easy to use and seem the be less messy, but they are more watery and apply less flux to your joint. Still, it does improve the joint.
SRA #312 Soldering Flux Pen Low-Solids, No-Clean 10ml - Refillable
The best flux I have ever used Amtech NC-559-V2 Tacky Flux
Went to tractor supply and picked up a few small syringe’s and dispened some into one. Been using that small syringe for months now and you can barely tell I have used any out of the original. If you pull back on the syringe a little after use, then it doesn’t leak once it sets awhile. It also works better if you file down the beveled tip until its flat. Keeps you from sticking yourself too.
You don’t want to be like Louis though and and completely drown your components in flux. 
He has an ultrasonic cleaner to clean his mess, while we don’t.
I can never seem to get the right amount out of a syringe. It’s either too little or too much.
If I didn’t already have some good flux I’d buy that Amtech myself.
Well i have the “Mechanic” brand, and it’s fine.
I put a wooden stick in the back and it works well enough.
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Those are usually alcohol solutions and i haven’t been impressed with the liquid fluxes i have tried.
Right, it’s a lot thinner/watery. It’s not the best type of flux, but it does improve the joints. It’s main advantage is its very clean. The thicker type of fluxes work best, but they are a bit messier. I typically use some alcohol on a q-tip to clean up the thicker fluxes. I don’t have to clean the flux pen stuff at all.
So it’s a toss up as to which you prefer. Personally, I prefer having the best quality solder joints possible so I use the thicker stuff and just clean up the residue afterwords. It’s worth the trouble.
The only time I add a little more flux than usual is removing a sense resistor. If I drown the resistor it heats the whole thing and comes off easier. Louis gets a little crazy with the stuff. It does clean off very easy with alcohol, doesn’t hurt to leave it unless it’s on a contact point like the outside ground ring.
Lead free solder made to conform Pb Free certification. In SMD manufacturing the thermal, and joint strength advantage of lead free is too small to make it attractive from technical stand point. Some big manufacturers have to use it whether they like it or not to keep going.
Tin whiskering, higher temp, dull finish, harder flux residue, etc…. are just few of the problems with lead free.
My opinion for us it to go leaded (60/40 or 63/37), unless there’s no other options.
Just purchased a small spool of Indium to test the hype. I’ll let you know if the 50W/MK vs 86W/MK makes any noticeable difference at all in the LED output.
- Clemence
The thick greasy stuff is usually easy to remove with a cotton tip swab when the object you soldered is still hot / warm.
When it cools it gets thicker and stickier, and then you have to use chemicals…
to easy remove flux I like to use rubbing alcohol with brush and swab after soldering 
I used my new Weller a few minutes ago, it’s night and day compared to my old one. Now I’m waiting on a few led’s for some mods.
My next will be Xhp70.2 in a Ultrafire F13.