The wire you have has flux inside it. It burns away quickly so you want to feed the solder/flux into the joint. Having extra flux makes everything flow better and gives nicer performance. The videos I posted explain it.
Anyway, something you might try when you get wifi access is to download all the videos from YouTube using www.keepvid.work
I use it all the time to download 720p resolution videos to watch when I’m away from wifi. You get a popup junk page once per video, but it’s no big deal to me.
I’ve been using Kester 44 since the late 60’s. At first, I was using 60/40. Then in the 70’s I switched over SN63 (63/37). SN63 gives a brighter finish than 60/40 from my experience. That being said, I wouldn’t be caught dead using lead-free solder. It sucks big time.
There are different brands and formulations of flux. Like with any type of product, there are companies that try to make it cheaper at the expense of quality. So you want to stick to good brands like MG Chemicals, Kester, SRA, etc… if you want good performance.
The best flux I have ever used Amtech NC-559-V2 Tacky Flux
Went to tractor supply and picked up a few small syringe’s and dispened some into one. Been using that small syringe for months now and you can barely tell I have used any out of the original. If you pull back on the syringe a little after use, then it doesn’t leak once it sets awhile. It also works better if you file down the beveled tip until its flat. Keeps you from sticking yourself too.
Right, it’s a lot thinner/watery. It’s not the best type of flux, but it does improve the joints. It’s main advantage is its very clean. The thicker type of fluxes work best, but they are a bit messier. I typically use some alcohol on a q-tip to clean up the thicker fluxes. I don’t have to clean the flux pen stuff at all.
So it’s a toss up as to which you prefer. Personally, I prefer having the best quality solder joints possible so I use the thicker stuff and just clean up the residue afterwords. It’s worth the trouble.
The only time I add a little more flux than usual is removing a sense resistor. If I drown the resistor it heats the whole thing and comes off easier. Louis gets a little crazy with the stuff. It does clean off very easy with alcohol, doesn’t hurt to leave it unless it’s on a contact point like the outside ground ring.
Lead free solder made to conform Pb Free certification. In SMD manufacturing the thermal, and joint strength advantage of lead free is too small to make it attractive from technical stand point. Some big manufacturers have to use it whether they like it or not to keep going.
Tin whiskering, higher temp, dull finish, harder flux residue, etc…. are just few of the problems with lead free.
My opinion for us it to go leaded (60/40 or 63/37), unless there’s no other options.
Just purchased a small spool of Indium to test the hype. I’ll let you know if the 50W/MK vs 86W/MK makes any noticeable difference at all in the LED output.
The thick greasy stuff is usually easy to remove with a cotton tip swab when the object you soldered is still hot / warm.
When it cools it gets thicker and stickier, and then you have to use chemicals…
I planned to build that combo about 16 months ago, but decided I wanted a side switch light instead. I put the light and the HA1 driver in a drawer. Oh well. I built my mini L6 instead. I’ve had a Supfire X17 ready to go for 6 months now waiting on Lexel release his boost drivers with NarsilM.
What driver do you plan to use? A boost driver or use 2 x 26350?