ive tried 480,560 and 680 ohms on my convoy s2 driver
jesus christ i must of re soldered it 30 times already, and im not getting the modes.
Do you mean you have only one mode? If yes, the problem is not with bleeder. Bleeder resistor only fixes next mode memory. Search for shorts.
What exact driver do you have? What is the firmware?
The solution is simple if you use the original (Nanjg A47-AK etc) drivers in that light.
From personal experience I can say that with those drivers you don’t need a bleeder.
Just put a little 3mm led over the switch. And presto, you have your own redneck tailcap light.
So when the switch is on, the led is bypassed. When the switch is off, it is bypassed by the led.
Make sure you use a clear tailcap and a clear washer or you still won’t see a thing 
The intensity of the led relies on the driver. 6-8*AMC7135 gets you more light than 2-3*AMC7135.
If you use the new Convoy drivers (with biscotti firmware), lighted tailcaps won’t function as they should.
Not with any given combo of resistors. And that is not the only aspect they react with quirky behavior
Are you sure? New convoy stock driver with biscotti and 8 chips works for me with 320ohm resistor.
i presume its original one , it the cheapo 3/5mode off gearbest. no stars on driver 6 chips. but i flashed it with biscotti and thats when funny behaviour started.
ill try adding another resistor, (guessing that will half ohms). maybe 560 is too high.
added another resistor taking it down to 280(2x560s) and it works bit better
ill order some 300ohm and see if its any better.
James, please explain your reason for using a bleeder resistor in the first place.
oh yeh sorry , for lighted tail switch on convoy s2+.
How many leds does it use and what are the resistor values for them? Lighted tail cap switches can vary a lot depending on where you bought it.
It’s possible you need to add more resistance to the leds for your bleeder resistor to work.
i think its 2 x 331ohm and 2 leds.
its the generic one from banggood
I feel your pain. I have a really nice lighted switch that I gave up on because I couldn’t get the long-press modes working. Should sell it I guess…
I have that one as well. It’s in an Eagle Eye X2R. The 330 ohm resistors are kind of too low resistance. I plan to change mine to 1000 - 3000 ohm and then see if my 680 ohm bleeder resistor works. Right now I’m still getting the next mode memory problem.
Keep us posted about the X2R - I’d like to get mine operational again with lighted tailcap, without the NMM problem.
im not so fussed about next mode, it was the erractic behaviour i was trying to stop.
tbh i doubt i could change and smd resistors on the switch. im just using normal sized resistor for bleeder.
try 1k bleeder and 10k led resistors, the higher the values the better chance it works
The leds are not very bright considering they use 330 ohm resistors. Switching to 10k might make them super dim. I was going to 3x to 6x their resistance first and see if it works without getting too dim.
This kind of stuff makes me want to use a trim pot on the leds. 
