If you define efficiency by led-watts/input-watts then a higher Vf would be better. However I would argue that the most important efficiency is lumens/watt-input and in that scenario you want the LED with the most lumens/amp where the VF doesnāt matter as long as itās low enough for the circuit to work.
I could have shaved another few millimetres off the length of the light but wanted a decently thick copper heatsink, magnetic tail and tritium vial in the momemtary switch button, still managed to keep it below 100mm.
This oneās a keeper, I never know how to price these things, by the hour + materials?
My time varies between Ā£30-Ā£50 an hr for work so if I said Ā£30 x 12 = Ā£360 + Ā£40 + a niche skill set & unqiue item?ā¦.
Thatās really nice. It may even be closer to the original spirit of the FW3A than the real thing. Iām curious thoughā¦ did you flash the driver or use it stock? There are builds of Anduril for that driver if you want one.
Thanks. I used what I had on hand - a stock Emisar D4 driver with the switchwire connected to a brass ring sitting on the spring side, insulated of course.
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A with the Emisar in the center.
Note: Itās not the final ātintā of the anodisation yet, still in āHostā form (more greenish than grey), but at least youāll believe this project is on track and itās coming our way sooner than later:
Edit: The photo might not be a final representation of what will become the production version.
Itās more for the purpose of showing that this project is very-much alive and hopefully bring hope to those fellow members who are losing enthusiasm because of the looong wait.