Yeah, i know, but then the graph suggests the color temp gets cooler when power increases, which is not the case.
LEDs have a cooler tint when running on low power, get warmer tint when power increases.
This depends on the LED but most I’ve tested have gotten cooler with increasing current.
I am new to this board and don’t know all the details of this project – just wanted to thank everyone involved and say that this product appears really innovative and cool. An electronic tail switch is something I haven’t seen before in this form factor.
This keeps most of the levels pretty stable and reasonably efficient, as far as linear drivers go. But it still has a direct drive circuit for turbo.
In a totally non-scientific qualitative manner, the overall efficiency curve compared to a constant current linear driver looks something like this:
You did mention that efficiency is “reasonably efficient as far as linear drivers go”. But the charts themselves look as if the blue curve was optimal, not merely optimal for linear drivers. I’ve been confused by them when I was more noobish than I am now. I suggest clarifying that right on the pictures.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted, though I haven’t seen a careful analysis of what was going on, one that would enable us to draw lessons for future drivers designs.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted
A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.
It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.
Deep from the abyss, now comes this photo of the FW3A …
What do you think guys?
No major host shape changes have been approved, so I hope that’s just unscrewed and missing the clip and O-rings.
I also think it’d be nice if the people involved in the project didn’t have to get news from forwarded social media posts. It’s a bit frustrating.
Open the photo in a new tab, zoom in (there is a lot of detail there to see), and you can form your own opinion. Those don’t look like o-ring grooves to me. And if they are, why two ? This isn’t a dive light. And the clip was not supposed to clip into a groove, but be Solarforce style, with integral retaining ring.
There isn’t a separate tailcap as such in this design, the tube should only ever unscrew at the head, so if this really is just a display of parts in disassembled condition, well, why ? Screw it up please
Remember, this is where the concept started: http://i.imgur.com/AVSmLGN.jpg It seems a lot has been coarsened since then.
Nice touch putting the piece of packing under the Emissar, and bringing it forwards, to make it look longer
Edit, and fatter
Than it actually is
I do hope I’ve got this completely wrong, but I don’t see (literally) how I could have.
The design may have something to do with ease of manufacture for Lumintop. I wonder if one of their other lights is similar enough to the design in the photos and instead of setting up tools and fixtures to make a light exactly as Fritz had envisioned it, they are going with their own designs.
I think no host changes have been approved and somebody has some explaining to do.
There might not be any host changes. It’s looks pretty much exactly like it’s supposed to.
It’s just the ends being unscrewed that make it look different.
Why would there be two o-ring grooves on the head side? I thought the clip was designed solely to go on the tail hence the revised chamfered portion.
That’s what it looks like to me too.
At the tail it looks like they’ve cleared a groove for a slip-on clip. If that was merely the tailcap not fully screwed in the interior of the groove wouldn’t be completely smooth. It would have threads and an o-ring slot near the top.
I’m also not quite sure about the groove at the top of the picture. It looks like it has what might be an o-ring slot, but no threads. Did Lumintop just decide to put a decorative groove on booth ends and the light in their picture IS actually fully screwed together?
Oh for the love of baby jesus. Please tell me they aren’t going to put a damn snap on clip on this light. That I think, would put a bunch of folks over the edge.
I can’t imagine a reason for posting a picture with the parts not screwed together. It doesn’t make sense to me.
Taking a third look at the picture I now notice a decorative groove on both ends of the battery tube. The groove is the recessed area with raised ridge in the center.
Why do I think it’s a decorative and not just the light partially unscrewed? …. the grooves have no threads in them.
Though maybe I am wrong and those are just slots for double o-rings. I don’t think so though. If it was for double o-rings I would expect the same groove depth at both ends of the battery tube.
In addition to the decorative grooves, the bottom of the battery tube has a larger flat area just above the decorative groove that looks clearly designed for a slip-on clip.
Personally, I don’t like this new look. Looks overly complex. I much prefer the previous prototype.
Oh for the love of baby jesus. Please tell me they aren’t going to put a damn snap on clip on this light. That I think, would put a bunch of folks over the edge.
Yeah, i know, but then the graph suggests the color temp gets cooler when power increases, which is not the case.
LEDs have a cooler tint when running on low power, get warmer tint when power increases.
This depends on the LED but most I’ve tested have gotten cooler with increasing current.
Really??
Or maybe you mean this is the case in the range above very low modes.
Very low modes like ‘moon’ and ‘firefly’ give relatively more blue, i guess the phosphor is not excited by very low levels of 450nm.
That is the coarsest threading I have ever seen on a light… or… possibly an o-ring slot and a slot for a snap-on-clip. If it does screw together and cover the two slots, that seems like wasted space.
*I reserve the right to be completely wrong.
—
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
Yup. If those actually are double-o ring slots, that would be good design.
However, at the tailcap, the upper ledge of the “o-ring slot” seems like it would be too shallow to actually hold an o-ring. Screwing in the tailcap would push that o-ring out of position.
I really don’t think so. Unnecessary, and other aspects that I have observed on this image are troubling.
For starters, putting an o-ring into a rough bead-blasted groove with some shonky anodising is really not cool. If you want to create a seal, do it competently, or don’t bother. That means precise machined surface finish and materials selection. Slathering it with grease may also help. If you dive, you might understand this a little.
But since this is what it is, it probably doesn’t matter at-all to most customers.
It’s not as if we have even seen these supposed double o-rings in-situ. Well if two are better than one, why not three, or four where do you stop ?
Do it properly and one is enough. Two maybe for a dive torch, but that comes with downsides too. Double the maintenance, and you never really know whether either, or both, are serviceable. A bit like flying twin-engine planes.
This depends on the LED but most I’ve tested have gotten cooler with increasing current.
I am new to this board and don’t know all the details of this project – just wanted to thank everyone involved and say that this product appears really innovative and cool. An electronic tail switch is something I haven’t seen before in this form factor.
You did mention that efficiency is “reasonably efficient as far as linear drivers go”. But the charts themselves look as if the blue curve was optimal, not merely optimal for linear drivers. I’ve been confused by them when I was more noobish than I am now. I suggest clarifying that right on the pictures.
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted, though I haven’t seen a careful analysis of what was going on, one that would enable us to draw lessons for future drivers designs.
A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.
It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.
link to djozz tests
Open the photo in a new tab, zoom in (there is a lot of detail there to see), and you can form your own opinion. Those don’t look like o-ring grooves to me. And if they are, why two ? This isn’t a dive light. And the clip was not supposed to clip into a groove, but be Solarforce style, with integral retaining ring.
Or just go straight to https://i.imgur.com/rohcLIc.jpg[/img]
There isn’t a separate tailcap as such in this design, the tube should only ever unscrew at the head, so if this really is just a display of parts in disassembled condition, well, why ? Screw it up please
Remember, this is where the concept started: http://i.imgur.com/AVSmLGN.jpg It seems a lot has been coarsened since then.
Nice touch putting the piece of packing under the Emissar, and bringing it forwards, to make it look longer
Edit, and fatter
Than it actually is
I do hope I’ve got this completely wrong, but I don’t see (literally) how I could have.
The design may have something to do with ease of manufacture for Lumintop. I wonder if one of their other lights is similar enough to the design in the photos and instead of setting up tools and fixtures to make a light exactly as Fritz had envisioned it, they are going with their own designs.
Get me on this list for +1 please
Really?
I dont see green in the middle of the tubes.
I would guess its the reflection from the green table.
Why would there be two o-ring grooves on the head side? I thought the clip was designed solely to go on the tail hence the revised chamfered portion.
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
At the tail it looks like they’ve cleared a groove for a slip-on clip. If that was merely the tailcap not fully screwed in the interior of the groove wouldn’t be completely smooth. It would have threads and an o-ring slot near the top.
I’m also not quite sure about the groove at the top of the picture. It looks like it has what might be an o-ring slot, but no threads. Did Lumintop just decide to put a decorative groove on booth ends and the light in their picture IS actually fully screwed together?
I guess you are not a tint snob
I unfortunately am and I developed a spider sence for green.
I can’t imagine a reason for posting a picture with the parts not screwed together. It doesn’t make sense to me.
Oh for the love of baby jesus. Please tell me they aren’t going to put a damn snap on clip on this light. That I think, would put a bunch of folks over the edge.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
Why do I think it’s a decorative and not just the light partially unscrewed? …. the grooves have no threads in them.
Though maybe I am wrong and those are just slots for double o-rings. I don’t think so though. If it was for double o-rings I would expect the same groove depth at both ends of the battery tube.
In addition to the decorative grooves, the bottom of the battery tube has a larger flat area just above the decorative groove that looks clearly designed for a slip-on clip.
Personally, I don’t like this new look. Looks overly complex. I much prefer the previous prototype.
Agreed. That would go against the whole concept.
I tend to agree with you, and if so, it is quite a departure in design.
Please add me to the list.
Thanks
When comparing the proportions it’s pretty obvious that, like it was said, head and tailcap are unscrewed.
Have a look above and next please…
Really??
Or maybe you mean this is the case in the range above very low modes.
Very low modes like ‘moon’ and ‘firefly’ give relatively more blue, i guess the phosphor is not excited by very low levels of 450nm.
But why post that ?
Makes no sense.
Screw it.
And please someone send some proto 4s to the people who are still trying hard, not being lackadaisical.
Sure hope so !!
That is the coarsest threading I have ever seen on a light… or… possibly an o-ring slot and a slot for a snap-on-clip. If it does screw together and cover the two slots, that seems like wasted space.
*I reserve the right to be completely wrong.
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
Double o-rings, good design.
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However, at the tailcap, the upper ledge of the “o-ring slot” seems like it would be too shallow to actually hold an o-ring. Screwing in the tailcap would push that o-ring out of position.
Thinner o-ring
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I really don’t think so. Unnecessary, and other aspects that I have observed on this image are troubling.
For starters, putting an o-ring into a rough bead-blasted groove with some shonky anodising is really not cool. If you want to create a seal, do it competently, or don’t bother. That means precise machined surface finish and materials selection. Slathering it with grease may also help. If you dive, you might understand this a little.
But since this is what it is, it probably doesn’t matter at-all to most customers.
It’s not as if we have even seen these supposed double o-rings in-situ. Well if two are better than one, why not three, or four where do you stop ?
Do it properly and one is enough. Two maybe for a dive torch, but that comes with downsides too. Double the maintenance, and you never really know whether either, or both, are serviceable. A bit like flying twin-engine planes.
Is that a piece for sale?
What do you want for thirty odd dollars, rocketship precision?
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You could maybe take it diving with double O-rings..
Btw, talking about double O-rings in non-dive lights:
Lot of maintenance there…
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