Photoshop is a lot easier. If you actually want to get things done, and are prepared to pay, or otherwise, obtain it.
Irfan View does the basic jobs and is lightweight. But Faststone Image viewer is far more powerful (basically a clone of ACDSee, my mainstay, and worth the money)
Iāve never heard of Affinity Photo. But I just looked it up and it does seem nice. Iāve been a GIMP user for years. Iāve never used Photoshop. Iām not anything like a professional user, but I have learned how to do some moderately advanced things with GIMP. Photoshop and Affinity Photo still have quite a few very advanced features that Gimp lacks.
Iāve spent time with a bunch of image editors, and have been using GIMP and Photoshop since the 1990s. I even made my own paint program / image editor once, designed mostly around demoscene effects. But I find GIMP suits me best, and is the most intuitive for me. Part of it is because itās trivially easy to assign arbitrary keyboard shortcuts, part is because it lets my window manager do its job instead of trying to manage everything itself in a single window, and part is just that it has the types of tools I want.
In the past, Photoshop was a lot better if you needed color spaces other than greyscale or RGB, but GIMP recently overhauled its engine to fix that sort of issue. It always had a wider and more advanced variety of image-processing tools, often getting brand new stuff from SIGGRAPH long before other programs, but its core architecture has also gotten a lot more mature over time.
I wouldnāt use either one for diagrams or for painting though. There are better tools for those tasks, like Inkscape for diagrams and Krita for painting. GIMP is mostly designed for photo editing.
Itās hard to go wrong with any decent image editor though. There is no shortage of genuinely good imaging software these days.
About the FW3A thoughā¦ something Iāve been pondering is whether to try to fit in a factory reset function somewhere.
This would reset everything to defaults except the thermal sensor calibration. For that, it would act as if the user went through thermal config mode and calibrated it to 21 C. Maybe thatās not the exact temperature of everyoneās rooms, but it should be a lot closer than an uncalibrated attiny85.
Normally Iād put it on āhold e-switch while connecting power, then continue to hold for a few secondsā. However, the FW3A canāt do that because the switch doesnāt get physically connected until after power.
So maybe it could be on some other action which is hard to do by accident. Maybe 10 clicks from off and hold the 10th?
If it fits, the overall UI for it would be:
Loosen the tube, hold the e-switch, then tighten the tube while still holding the switch. (or click 10 times and hold the 10th press)
Starting at a low level, the light flashes an increasingly intense warning stutter.
Let go to cancel the reset, or otherwise keep holding.
After ~5 seconds, the light makes a bright flash, resets everything to defaults, then smoothly fades back to off.
At least, thatās how the āself destruct modeā works on the lightsaber UI I made. It probably doesnāt need to be as fancy in a flashlight. In particular, it probably shouldnāt get very bright because that could affect the temperature calibration. Regardless though, Iāve been pondering whether it should be included.
The Anduril I flashed onto my D4 goes into a lock on if you click 10 plus clicks from on. I would consider this a good thing, must power cycle to exit.
I donāt see myself using a factory reset, but it might be good for some.
Since then, I completely rewrote the button input handling system. Itās now quite a bit smaller and also lacks bugs like the one you noted.
I still have a couple other bugs to hunt down, but they only affect lights with aux LEDs, so itās not relevant for the FW3A. The other bugs are also incredibly rare, to the point that I canāt even make them happen on purpose, so it may take a while to confirm any fixes.
In any case, there is no more lock-up after long click sequences.
Perhaps since Lumintop only intended to test anodizing, they didnāt bother cutting actual threads? Thatās why the tubes look different and why the parts couldnāt be threaded together.
Great, what version has been fixed? I am not sure it would be worth flashing again, Its not really an issue for me. I think it could be a handy feature.
Itās probably not worth reflashing unless there are specific changes you care about. The event system rewrite has virtually no user-visible changes. Mostly, it just ā¦ doesnāt hang any more, and the lockout modeās momentary moon now lights up on every press instead of just the first three.
Other recent changes include:
Fancier āblinkingā mode for aux LEDs. Instead of being on high for 0.5s every 4s, it makes more of a clock tick or slow heartbeat pattern. (ā¦oOoā¦ā¦oā¦ā¦oOoā¦ā¦oā¦ā¦oOoā¦ā¦oā¦ā¦ repeating)
Moved off modeās aux LED config to ā7 clicks from offā instead of hiding it inside lockout mode.
Added a moon timing hint, to help people time the button release correctly to stay at moon from off.
Added support for some new lights.
Fixed a stepped ramping corner case when two steps were exactly 128 levels apart.
Fixed a small thermal behavior corner case.
Broke and fixed sunset mode.
Added more documentation.
Source code and build system improvements which donāt affect functionality.
Most of this makes little or no difference to the user interface.
Looking forward, most of the stuff which needs to happen is just hardware supportā¦ but more visible changes could happen too:
Tint ramping (on the lantern, and any other dual-tint lights).
Factory reset function.
Make the ramp auto-reverse in more modes, not just the main ramps.
Rewrite the thermal regulationā¦ again.
Improve interaction between LVP and aux LEDs.
Configurable timer for sunset mode.
Possibly make strobe duty cycle configurable, or add a randomized strobe.
Maybe other new stuff, depending on what new features appear in new hardware.