[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ENDED

Sooo… a 26650 > 18650 spacer is easy but this conversion isn’t for some reason?

The simple solution is to understand the actual dimensions of your batteries before putting them in lights. Since these li-ion cells weren’t ever even really designed to be used loose (and certainly not with varying sizes due to protection circuits, button tops, etc.) that would seem to be the bare minimum of preparedness to me.

I’ve used the included 21700>18650 spacers in two e-cig mods with no issues at all for months until I got some 20700 and 21700 cells.

If you have to tighten it down hard to make contact… why do you think it would be wearing on the springs? Sounds like the cells you have are slightly under spec and you have to get the springs closer by tightening before it makes good contact.

The alternative would be that the tailcap isn’t making good connection with the contact area on the battery tube itself but that would be easy to test by trying it with different cells/spacer + 18650 cell.

Are you sure the o-rings on both ends of the battery tube are still in the correct grooves? I had a similar issue with my Q8 when I got it because they had been pushed into the wrong one when first assembling the light with batteries.

xtar h3 and nitecore hc30 headbands fit perfectly.

This one looks very similar to the Skilhunt H03 headband

This one is closest to the JetBeam HC20 design. I just ordered 6 of them.

Of the 100’s of lights that I have, this one is the only one I have to really crank down on to complete the circuit. Like I said, at least it works. I do love it but also want it to last. Tried with a short flat top 30Q. With the adapter, too long could complete circuit. Same battery without adapter still needed to crank it hard all the way on to get a circuit. Seems to have something to do with battery tube section making contact with the bottom inside of the tail cap. 50E already showing circular scrap marks from the spring on the negative end. Both O-rings are and have been in correct slots.

Next might try something like a copper O-ring with outer diameter equal to inside diameter of end cap. Not even sure that has a chance of helping. Fine, thin aluminum V-shaped threads won’t last long doing what I have to do to get the light to work. Might ask FF to send another tail. They just shipped my second PL47, with magnet separate this time and second ROT66 a few days ago. Preordered a E07 today so may ask Jack to send another tailcap with that order. ’Nuf complaining…love the light and has a great 3 year wanrranty. Just going to enjoy it and try to stay in the moment!

Are threads really V-shaped on this flashlight?

BTW looks like I might get mine before the weekend if I’m lucky enough.

Firstly why would I have know better? Already stated I have never used the adpater before, secondly we have not bought 10 lights I have a REQUIREMENT for 10 lights for clients and I put the batteries in anyway. We have TWO lights and both batteries had been damaged when myself and partner placed the batteries in the adapter when they arrived. As to other post about 18650 you can use and 18650 button top in the PL47 with out the adapter and theres is little to know movement. Our intention in the end is to use 21700’s we have waiting for them to arrive… But as they are also able to run using 18650 which we have a shed load of we intend to use them until the 21700’s arrive…

Our issues are the headband thats being sold with these lights not being fit for purpose and that there was no indication as to what should or should not be done with the adapter… The Other issue we have now come a cross have also been communicated direct to firefly….

Well, this is not really a product meant for a mass market, it’s not foolproof like for example Petzl headlamps. I guess that’s why leaftye is saying that you should know better. Like others have said, the variety of dimensions and shapes of all of the ‘18650’ cells on the market makes it almost impossible to make an adapter for them. It is designed for 21700 and you have to always be extra cautious while performing such equilibristics :wink: I do understand your disappointment but these are issues that might always happen, especially going for first batch of an innovative products from tiny companies. There is no standardization and manufacturer did recommend to use specific 21700 cells. You did put Olight cell, while build around 18650 cell, not really fitting dimensions. It will just never be as simple as poping three AAA batteries…
PL47 was designed as a right angle torch primarily, NOT as a headlamp. It was after our requests in this thread that Jack decided to add that unfortunate headstrap. I was expecting it to be crap looking at the pictures but I’m ready to experiment with other straps I have or even look for one that will fit well. We can obviously blame Fireflies for not checking it (what he defo should do) but again - it was clear from the beginning that it was an afterthought and this flashlight was not marketed as a headlamp.

And so enduth the lesson…And lesson learned……

But still he could have done better on headband… Took me 5mins if that to fi d one suitable…And cheaper…

Ha. A gun could be marketed as a pointing device, but it’s still going to be a gun.

In my opinion, a right angle flashlight of this diminutive size makes for a perfect headlamp. Has for many years. Even the old 2xC, 2xD military right angle lights from years ago, were attached to helmets—as headlamps. Just because, the headstrap was ill chosen and maybe not considered—prior to blf folks asking, “so where is the head strap—this looks like a headlamp.” does not change the fact that for a majority of the folks purchasing this lil’gadget are gonna find a way to strap it to their skulls.

The only real issue i see is whether or not we’re going to light our heads on fire.

Yeah, you’ve got a point. I guess that’s the core of angle lights popularity, I also never understood people carrying these lights in their pockets on daily :wink:

Speaking about helmets I remember that Armytek makes bombproof hard hat helmet mounts. Maybe that would be a good bet you lohtse?

:smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

any links?

saddly would not work but thank you for the heads up!

I dont have a link, but i have an idea. Depends on how handy you are, though. Gotta do some macguyvering.

I made a tripod mount for a thrunite tn36ut a couple years back, out of some schedule 40 pvc plumbing pipe, or electrical conduit—i dont remember. I think for a helmet the same theory could apply. For the pl47 to make a helmet mount: (just a working theory dont know what materials you would have handy across the pond).

Anyway, the pl47 is 24mm ~1” middle part—our attachment point. I would head over to my local plumbing supply/ home improvement shop with the light and see what pipe it will just barely slide into (minus tail cap) you dont really want it to slide in though. It has to be just a pubic hair or two smaller than the flashlights battery tube. theoretically this will be 1”/24mm id rigid tubing. Purchase the cheapest amount you can say 6-12”. Cut this to length so it will fit between the right angle and the tail cap minus 3/8-1/2”. Now you have a short little section of tube.

Now you have to make 2 longitudinal cuts (along the length) so that the tube will look like an extruded “C”. When i did the tn36 i almost cut it in half less just a little bit—so not quite cut in half maybe half diamter plus 5/16-3/8”. Adjust for size to fit the pl47. If the tube originally was just a hair small and you made the c-shape it should just about snap into place. Keep fussing with it till it does. Drill 2 holes thru the c tube along the length and thru the helmet. Attach with aluminum rivets or countersunk stainless screws with nut and loctite/split washer or locknut on back side, grind off excess screw/bolt. If using rivets you will have to make a recessed hole and then a smaller thru hole. In either case you want the metal fastener to be lower than flush so it doesnt scar the pl47 tube. This should allow you to turn light top to bottom and hold it firmly enough that it wont get knocked out by rough caving activities. I would finish by rounding over all sharp edges with a file or sandpaper. Alternatively, a few holes in the c tube and some stout zipties could also work in a pinch if your tubing is too thin to recess the fastener heads. The hardest part will be finding rigid tubing that has the right inner diameter. The idea is to be just smaller than the light. This will keep it clamped on tight. But still be able to spin the light. Kind of like a spring clamp.

Material cost <$1.00. I should think for a helmet this would work great. It will not be as great for a strap, too beefy imo.

For my tn36ut lacking a 1/4-20 threaded hole this was an outstanding solution to get it on a tripod.

Hope this helps.

Now that i think of it you could probably just use zipties. 4 holes into your helmet though and 2 thick zipties. Just ziptie the light straight to your helmet. You would still be able to spin it up and down. Snip’em off when you need to. The c-tubing method would be easier to take the light off the helmet though.

DISCLAIMER: this is just an idea. You will have to use your judgment whether this is worth your effort, skills and money. I am not responsible if it comes out wonky. I can say that the one i made came out awesome.

I have 2 armytec wizard mounts. Softish rubber, should work for my purposes. I agree, signing up for the 1st edition of these group buys is asking for disappointment. I knew better, but this style of light is my favorite format, saw the specs and started drooling……

Have order new headbands and in the mean time will use my Xtar/Nitecore bands… Never liked the idea of a headlight being perminetly attached to a helmet as that just does not allow the flexiblity of any light… The PL47 is a great light so being able to actually use it in any situation is very important…… And soon as Jackie sends the replacement caps I can actual use it on my bergan or stick it in a pocket next to a compass…. Once the issues are resolved then all will be well…

Maybe i didnt illustrate the concept well. The flashlight is not permanently attached, the pvc mounting c-tube—that you would fabricate— would be. The idea is that you fabricate a mount that your light snaps into and out of with ease. I wish i knew how to do pictures here i could show you a picture. It is super uncomplicated in practice, the best designs are usually simple. Works the way a snap button on a pair of jeans works. Snaps in, snaps out. Easy peasy. One minute you have a flashlight on your helmet the next you put it in your pocket.

However, it sounds like you have another solution so no worries.

In fact, my proposal works the way the crap one they sent you was supposed to work. Just better—if made properly.

I make things. Almost all of my ideas are awesome. And i am usually right about everything.

Haaaaa. :smiley:

We use very different helmets to the one the attachment is on hence not working also drilling holes into a helmet is not always a good thing… Anyway having a headband that works is what matters…

As to making things We hear you bith me and my partner are always tinkering either in the workshop or on the 3d printer etc…Just lots of Fun….