BLF GT official support thread [FAQ updated 11 Jan 2018]

Did OrangePeel post in the wrong thread?

I am pretty sure he did.

amazing! my first GT just went dead after not being used for a few months! i’d only just turned it on 5 times BRIEFLY at turbo, with the grease smoking each time. Gonna shoot Leo an e-mail about this. Has anybody’s GT gone dead?

No smoke or other issues here… haven’t seen my GT misbehave at all.

I’m only using four 30Q cells though, not eight. So turbo might be slightly less than full power. And I’ve mostly used it for development purposes, with only occasional ventures out into the night for secret missions… er, I mean, testing. Yeah, testing.

^ “Testing”… I like that! :wink:

i thought going ninja mode meant using the trusty uniquefire IR version with nightvision equipment, unless you’re a particularly YOLO ninja :smiley:

When you say it went dead, do you mean that the cells were discharged and are now dead?

Or do you mean that the light will not work now?

Does the side switch still work as expected?

The smoking is very strange as well, a small amount of smoke the first time it gets hot I can sort of understand but smoking repeatedly is strange unless it never truly heated up.

no, the whole light doesn’t work, it doesn’t even flash as supposed to when connection is first made. Not even the switch light comes on.

Yep, i only turned it up to turbo for a few seconds on each occasion since i didn’t want to risk fogging the reflector permanently. Not that it matters now, since i won’t have to deal with any more smoking. Hell, not even any light lol

Hmm, that is very strange indeed, that would seem to be an issue with the driver not getting power at all.

I would make sure that the retaining ring is tight, if it is loose it can break the power path.

Also, try manually holding the carrier against the driver to make sure it gets a good connection.

Also, naturally make sure that the carriers are inserted the right way.

There is no logical reason the light would just die for no reason when not in use. So it is most likely something else.

Since the carriers have that polarity protection and some button top cells are borderline tall enough, I would verify the voltage on the carrier. See if it’s putting out 16v on the end. Then do like TA says and just push the carrier against the head to see if it works.

Also make sure the carrier screws are tight. If they happen to be loose it can cause intermittent power loss.

That is an oddly accurate description.

Anyway, I hope people can get the GT issues worked out.

ok…. i know it’s been pretty long since the craze over the GT… but does anyone remember as well as i do that stock GA’s were supposed to work in these things? or is it just me…. the 35E’s did the trick by the way

Panny GA are a good choice.

Did you figure out why your light wasn’t working?

Exactly, and i’m pretty damn sure i was using GA’s the last time i turned them on but now only the 35e’s work. Perhaps a spring issue? That’d be strange too since i never leave my batteries installed so how could the springs have become permanently compressed or something….

Did you do all the checks in post 300 and 301?

There might have been one button top that wasn’t tall enough to make contact. Measure the carrier voltage. If no voltage, them inspect the button top clearance.

You can see that the clearance is tight.

Companies buy button tops to add to batteries from different places, so their height and width is all over the place. There are no standards for battery diameter, length, button top height, flat top height, etc… unlike AA, C, D, etc…

Are the GA’s button top? The brand of cell should not matter as long as it makes contact on both ends like Jason said.

I use laptop cells in my GT for example with solder blob.

they’re stock raised top but not button top. i still remember them working in these lights though. no voltage reading with them for sure. looks like it was a good idea to purchase the 35e’s anyhow.

Unless you modify the battery carrier & physically remove the reverse polarity protection, the GA’s will not work unless they are button tops. (or you solder b(. )( .)b them.)

Those are the facts. :+1:

Raised flat tops? I am surprised they worked at all. You need this much extra height.

And no more than this amount of width.

I bet if you add a little solder blob they would work just fine.

GA’s with a raised ‘flat top’ will not worked.

IF they ‘somehow’ worked once upon a time… they would work again. It would be repeatable.