Filed a dispute on AE, seller indignantly responds they sell “8133” and if I don’t want it, I can pay return shipping because it’s my problem.
By the time I see this thread, I have already ordered a 8132, but judging from the product photos, it has a red top. Let’s see what I’ll receive in the mail. It isn’t a very big deal if I get a “bad” one as I bought it for very cheap.
I just got my 8132, it turns out to be a “red top”, but weirdly enough the red color of the top (and the power button) is more of a darker deep red compared the the body’s red. The display looks like the less green one in the “good old” 8132 in #2. I don’t have any other tools that can be used to verify the accuracy of this meter, I guess I can only hope that it’s accurate… 
What you can do is to see if it displays 0 lux with some light, mine started to display more than 0 only around 65 lux wich is enough to read a book.
You can watch Djozz's video showing how to test it
I just did a quick test using my adjustable desk light, it reads 18 lux on my light’s lowest brightness.
Edit: I used Djozz’s method to test it, it reads as low as 1 lux, that’s interesting.
The bad luxmeter had several problems :
- reading 0 until 60-70 lux and seemingly non linear reading after that
- wrong response curve (the difference between a good luxmeter and the bad one was different depending on the light "color")
According to what the seller told me Tasi was admitting that there was something wrong with a whole batch (first batch new design ?) but that they were going to solve it.
0 and non linear readings should be easy to solve for Tasi (programming parameters) but i doubt then can change the response curve without replacing the filter and/or sensor.
Maybe yours is from the "new fixed" ones. That would good news but we still have to see if the response curve is correct
It is red top, thusfar it seems those should be good.
Tasi’s story of a bad batch is complete crap, those blacktops have dozen’s of design changes for the worse, that is not a mistake, that is intent. The next batch will not have all that reversed because someone on BLF found out what they did. They cheaped the design and then make up a story.
I’m not sure if anyone else’s meter comes with this booklet. It shows the spectral sensitivity of the meter. It might be a useful reference.
They changed the sensor and filter and did not change the calibration accordingly : that was big a mistake (they call it bad batch) but that one should easily be solved as long as the calibration parameters can be reprogramed
I agree that it won't solve everything but at least it should make the new 8133 as usable as any cheap luxmeter (while the old was pretty good)
That graph does not match what I found in the OP, it would be a better luxmeter if it matches this graph. It is probably because Tasi measures the wavelength in nonometets.
The Chinglish thing is hilarious 
Going to resurrect this thread.
Was wondering if anyone has run into other meters which have similar custom calibration ability like the Extech LT45 but at a cheaper price?
Hello, everyone. This is my first post in the forum 
I’m also looking for my first light meter.
Already made one styrofoam integration sphere and tried to measure some Phillips lamps with a Canon EOS 50D from RAW data :D. But that’s another long story.
I’m currently aiming for a relative consistency measurements between the lights. And later I will try to use absolute djozz-lumens
Obviously, it is much easier if you have a dedicated (dedomed) lux meter for the sphere.
So, I have contacted all stores (6-7) currently selling Tasi 8133 on Aliexpress, asking them which version they have. Some like frank hu, honestly reply they have only the black one.
Still, one replied that they have the red-capped one and sent me a picture. The store is Ali World Shopping Center.
So I want to ask you:
1.Has anyone bought a bad TASI 8133 from this shop?
2.Are the serial numbers the same on all TASI 8133, good or bad ones? (I’ve seen products from China with a single serial number for all units in a batch before)
3.What is your TASI 8133 serial number, djozz? The one on this picture seems to be 16303260(?).
Notice the darker red color of the cap. Is this normal?
4.I will probably buy one more cheap meter to have as a backup, if the TASI is totally screwed. Has anyone bought any of these:
TL-601
TES-1332A
Thank you for your time!
Welcome to BLF
The dark red bit is what mine also has. The serial number of my TA8133 is different: 17001457.
I guess that you have the ok quality version, but to be sure you can check how the inside of the sensor is build, see post #2 and post #30. (If you just take a look and do not mess around inside the sensor, it should not affect the calibration).
I ordered the TASI and the TL601, so I will write back when they arrive.
The TES seems to be too good to be true - many shops sell it for 100$+ and 32$ on ebay is quite the step down.
Also there seems to be a version with a wide dome and one with a much smaller one, all bearing the same model number, so that’s a bad sign too.
Now I only need to find some calibrated sources. Apart from buying from a laboratory, do you know any other way to obtain something that doesn’t vary too much in lumen output from unit to unit?
I’ve read in one of the pinned topics here that the Convoy S2+ is a very popular first thing to buy.
Have you compared what you get out of the box, e.g. for a L2 T5-5B 4000-4200K unit with AMC7135*4 drivers?
I’m not interested in modding it, at least not for the moment.
Try maukka for calibrated light sources:
I purchased this meter in January and I believe it is reasonably accurate for our purposes although I’m sure I paid less for it from an Amazon seller. I did pay for calibration and received a NIST certificate stating it was within 5 percent at 1000 and 5000 lux with a tungsten light source.
I really like the meter as it has large digits that are easier to read at 5 meters.
Is there a review please of the dr. meter LX 1330B luxmeter?I have difficulty to take a measure with this,while I have not,with one of my HS1010.
In the OP of this thread you would find links to my earlier luxmeter tests, the one from april 2018 included a luxmeter that at least looks very similar to the “Dr Meter” one that you are interested in. But as I have learned with budget chinese luxmeters, you never know for sure what is inside even if the package looks exactly the same . Here is the link once more: 5 luxmeters compared (april 2018)