Emisar D4S review

Hmm… I dont’ have a flashlight with LH351D LED yet. Maybe can ask Hank to do a D4S with LH351D, preferably 80CRI or higher CRI (somewhere 4000K or 5000K or the mixed tint that TK mentioned, if the color temperature isn’t available…) Anyone else interested in such a configuration?

I understand the LH351D will be floody (I find the D4S quite throwy actually with its existing LEDs…)

M44S?

M458S? :smiling_imp:

Who would do such a thing, Blue? :open_mouth:

My D4, D1 &D1s are my favourites of all my torches ,I’ll be getting a D4s when funds allow.

The SST-20-W 95CRI with HD2 tint bin from KD looks great. I’ve installed a bunch of them in single emitter and triple emitter (Wuben TO10R, TO46R) lights and they are second only to the E21A 3000k. At lower output, they are kind of yellow (above BBL) and at high output, they become rosy (below BBL). At very high output mode, they look as good as the E21A.

Please don’t use the LH351D unless it’s the T1, T2, T3, or T4 tint bin. The current supposedly below the BBL tint bins on the market looks yellow/green. On my Noctigon M43, the LH351D 4000k 90CRI looks ugly green shining through those Carclo triple optics. The XP-L HI 5D and especially the XP-G2 5D tint looks WAAAYYY better.

I’m really curious if someone know the SST-20 tint bins offered by Hank. I need to know the tint bin before I make a purchase. Whether it is HI CRI or super bright or throwy, if the tint is greenish it is no good to me.

4000K: J5 FB4
3000K: J4 HD2

Wow. This thread is super active… intl outdoor has been great for me. I received the lights quickly… i might need to get another d4s sst20 5000k or 6500k…

Were those confirmed by Hank? I’m impressed with the high flux bin. In comparison, KD sells the exact same tint bin but one flux bin under.
4000K: J4 FB4
3000K: J3 HD2

However, I wish they could have gotten a rosier tint bin for the 4000K. Fireflies uses the FA3 tint bin and is still slightly yellow. FB4 is one tint bin greener.

Yes, confirmed by Hank. To be more specific:

4000K: SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J5-VH-FB4)

3000K: SST-20-W30H-A120-J2302(J4-VH-HD2)

I wish the 4000K was a rosier bin too, but I can live with FB4 with a filter over it. I’ve put Zircon 804 over the 4000K from Kaidomain before and it’s nice.

Me too and soon!!!

Great info thanks. Zircon filter reduces output by almost 20% though, so that negates the 10% flux bin advantage over the J4 flux bin of the KD and Fireflies SST-20 4000k

@Jay, I think you are wrong.

The J4402 bin kit with J4 flux bin is actually the same as the Fireflies SST-20 and Kaidomain.

The J5 flux bin is actually the one that has higher output.

Speak of the Devil… that was fast…(Cancelled)D1S+, CSLNM1.TG LED, 850lm, 320kcd

Not sure what to tell you. All the part number info was just copy/pasted from email replies from Hank.

Strange then.

The J4402 bin kit specifies a J4 flux bin, not J5 flux bin.

He probably meant J5402 bin kit however. Makes more sense.

Can someone please tell me the binnings Hank uses for SST20 5000K and 6500K? Thanks!

I actually prefer the 70 CRI Samsung LH351D in 5000K, W6 binning… it’s the most powerful I have found and the color is closest to pure white I’ve seen, preferable to the 80 CRI 5000K in my opinion. My D4S has these and runs at 5834 lumens rested (start value)

[literally took it off the shelf and measured it right before posting]

Hank was so kind to tell me the bin codes for the SST-20 5.000K and 6.500K. I took the liberty to write down how to understand those bin codes. However, I also stumbled upon different flux and tint bins in the same overall bin code. Maybe someone with more experience can explain what that's supposed to mean.

D4S with SST-20 3.000K

SST-20-W30H-A120-J2302(J4-VH-HD2)

► W30H: W = White, 30 = 3000K, H = 95CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► J2302: J2 = flux bin (min. 102 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 302 = tint bin (HD2)

► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V

D4S with SST-20 4.000K

SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J5-VH-FB4)

► W40H: W = White, 40 = 3000K, H = 95CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► J4402: J4 = flux bin (min. 118 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 402 = tint bin (FB4)

► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V

D4S with SST-20 5.000K

SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)

► WDS: W = White, D = Daylight White, S = 65CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► L2501: L2 = flux bin (min. 172 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 501 = tint bin (DA)

► VK = minimum Vf with 2.9V

D4S with SST-20 6.500K

SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA)

► WCS: W = White, C = Cool White, S = 65CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► L3652: L3 = flux bin (min. 180 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 652 = tint bin (BA)

► VL = minimum Vf with 3.1V

Ah cool! Glad the 3000k SST20 I got lies below the BBL. It’s a shame nobody can source any 4000k variants that are below the BBL, because that is very much a goldilocks CCT I feel. It’s warm without being overly warm. The greenish tint is nothing a filter can’t fix though (especially since optics and ar glass probably add some green as well.)

If all goes well with the 3000k one, I’ll be ordering a second one for myself.