Thanks Steve! 
My first mod! I know its baby stuff compared to what most people are doing around here, but itās my first and Iām proud of it. 
Thanks to this thread by NeutralFan Convoy C8 Mod - The WOW Factor I gathered the courage to finally try an LED and Driver swap.
Modded Thorfire C8s
XP-L HI V3 1A on Noctigon 20mm MCPCB
FET + 7135 Driver with Guppy Firmware
22 AWG Wires with Spring Bypass
AR Coated Lens
Arctic Silver Premium Thermal Compound
You should be! Itās not the destination that counts, but the journey.
And you just have taken the first step(s).
Swapped the original LED from the Fomolov 18650s for an XP-L HI NW.
I have no hot air station available, so I reflowed with my usual method - PCB placed above a candle's flame.
Thank you! Yes, Iāve gained some much needed confidence too. Iām planning my next mod that will be a Convoy S2+ build for practice before I attempt to mod my Thrunite TN31.
A bit yesterday and a bit today, I modded my old Romisen RC-G2 flashlight, which for me is the mother of pocket throwers. At the time everyone needed to have at least one. It has a really nice and modest size-to-throw ratio and used to come with and XR-E led and its deep light-OP reflector made for a very nice throwy spot.
It received an overhaul now but I did not make pictures of the mod this time 
.
*the tail clicky asembly was replaced by a standard Omten 1288 switch. For that a retaining ring was sawn off an old alu pill that happened to have the same threads. Because I ran out of length (a familiar issue among modders) the switch itself had to be postioned completely inside the switch cover with the switchboard doubling as retaining ring for the switch cover.
*the driver was replaced by a 15mm diameter bistro driver (components of the BG bistro driver were transferred to a 15mm Oshpark board made by Warhawk, except the FET that needed to be the smaller LFPAK33 type)
*the led was a 3000K 90CRI XP-L HI, as sold by Kaidomain, this was the reason for this mod, to check this led out. It is on a 16mm Noctigon board.
*a led gasket was reshaped a bit (top sanded off because it blocked too much light, reamed and bevelled the hole a bit).
*a thin 1mm thick ring was added under the pill as a spacer because the XP-L Hi is thinner than the old XR-E, the pill had to move up towards the reflector a bit.
I first had only the 7135 working and found that the gate of the FET was shorting with the source (=ground) so the FET was always closed. Removed the FET and soldered it back in, now all works.
The beam is nice and throwy, just as expected, with a bit over 500 lumen at highest mode (could be increased with tailspring bypass, but it is ok for a high CRI 14500 light).
Now for the XP-L HI 3000K 90CRI, it is listed at KD for a while now but no one reported on it yet. I hoped of course for a surprise by Cree but it did not turn out to be one. The CRI at lowest levels is 92 with a R9 of 60, not bad, at highest level the CRI is 89.7 with R9 of 50. But alas the tint (of the hotpot) is above the BBL at all levels, and also the perception follows the measurement: compared to my high CRI SST-20 EDC the tint is more yellow/green. Very ok, as many high CRI tints are ok, but it does not make this XPL HI the jewel I hoped it to be.
I think this light will be waiting for a next best throwy high CRI led. I may add a lighted switch as well then.
Isnāt the SST-20 actually throwier than the XP-L HI?
Well, that is according to the D4S SST-20 listing anyway.
I think it is throwier too. I hoped the XPL-HI would be more efficient so if the tint would have been perfect this was a good idea. I may go for the SST-20 as next led in this light but perfect would be a led with 1x1mm die just as the original XR-E.
I have JM70 II, I have 1mmĀ² whitey with no host for it, I wonder what would it doā¦.but probably nothing special.
You modded some tubes into a flashlight.
I bought a JM70 recently to put a White Flat in it. I couldnāt find any info on a JM70 II. What is the difference?
I just put a Black Flat in a little Utorch UT01, pretty cool, intense little light! 
Does your UT01 have a stock driver? What is the amp draw?
Magnetic charging
contactcr, 1.09A on an 14500 cell freshly charged. So itās the stock driver, 4 modes. (Click on, click to shift modes L-H, hold to turn off) Still works with an AA Alkaline. 
I know, I know, Iām slacking. It should be pulling 57A and making 75,000 lumens by nowā¦. 
Armytek Partner C1 driver swap to H17f. The flush reverse switch was done last week or so.
If you bought recently, you probably got II. As already said, it has magnetic charging.
Please let us know how does it work!
tint p#rn alert, this post is not suitable for viewers with any sense of practicality
Yesterday evening I hit the tint jackpot.
A few days ago I modded my classic Romisen RC-G2 with a 90CRI 3000K XP-L-HI from Kaidomain, and although the colour temperature and CRI were according to specs, the tint was above the BBL and rather yellow/greenish compared to i.e. the SST-20-W 3000K 95CRI. On top of that I liked the beam less floody, the old XR-E in the RC-G2 was way throwier and I wanted that back.
(some info on the mod one page back in this thread: What did you mod today? - #6377 by djozz )
So after slicing 4000K 90CRI Samsung LH351D with very good tint results before, I had a go at slicing the SST-20-W 4000K 95CRI, to get the throwy beam that I wanted in the RC-G2 and hopefully a good tint on top. I managed to do the slice very close to the bond wires, as low as it can go, and then built the led into the flashlight. It looks in the picture that there is a burnt part in the phosfor, but this is a fresh led that had had no more than 50mA current when the picture was taken.
And indeed I got my very good tinted throwy beam, no rings, no visible tint shifts, no green or too yellow but rosy, very nice! Hereās the beam on the white wall from 2.5 meters, phone cam on daylight setting.
It has a Blue spring at the tail now and a raised brass post at the driver side, so resitances are low. The driver is a bistro driver that I set on 3 levels plus moon, on the Vapcell 14500 I get 0.14 lumen, 3 lumen/15mA, 98 lumen/620mA, 410 lumen/4.65A. The efficiency is very low, 40lm/W for the low levels, just 25 lumen/W for the highest setting (which is just twice the efficiency of a halogen bulb )
I could see that the tint was nice, but then I measured the tints of the hotspot and found how good they actually were:
Highest 410 lumen setting, pretty good CRI, tint on the rosy side:
Medium 98 lumen setting:
Low 3 lumen setting. Not great output but look at the numbers 
It will not win any efficiency award but the trusty rusty RC-G2 has gotten a worthy modification
1 Thank
Yuck! Glad you like itā¦