I understood it was only the metal clip that was rusted which caused the black paint of the clip to peel off.
The body of the C01 is made of aluminium, which oxidizes, and is not able to “rust”.
A photograph would be nice in this case so anyone can assess the exact nature of the problem.
That said: the anodization of the C01 body and the paint of the clip will wear down over time, especially when worn on a keychain.
The anodization type is nowhere explicitly specified by Sofirn, so it is probably the less robust Type II.
Energizer Ultimate Lithium is a primary (non-rechargeable) cell known for excellent shelf life and tolerance to high and very low temperatures, good discharge characteristics, and little to no leak risk. The downside is they’re a little bit pricey, but have been getting better lately. It’s an excellent option if you’re ok with the price.
Alkalines will work well in this light from a runtime perspective, especially the reduced output that occurs after the first 8-10 hours of operation. However, there is the ever-present leak risk that has to be considered for alkalines. I’ve had good luck cleaning up alkaline leakage with vinegar, so I might still use alkalines in mine. I haven’t decided.
Rechargeable nickel metal hydride (NiMH) batteries have very good discharge characteristics, a low potential total cost of ownership due to being rechargeable, and little to no leak risk. However, their lifespan is shortened if over-discharged, and this light is capable of over-discharging them. Recharging when the light gets noticeably dim will probably be reasonable protection against that.
I have not been a member for a long period of time but this thread has showed up at some point every week. The output is what had deterred me from purchasing this light. I would think a 30 lumen high would make this light more ideal. Just money. Sure I have spent it on worse things in the past.
Just got my 3200K light about 30 minutes ago and wow, I can now get why people would pay up the wazoo for a modded E01 with one of these Yuji’s. I was worried I wouldn’t like the 3200K judging by the beamshots others have posted, but I’m really liking it. If I can find my camera, I’ll try doing some comparison shots, but comparing my warm white high CRI XP-G Preon to the C01, the preon looks surprisingly green.
The body itself looks flawless upon initial inspection, no chips or peeling, same for the clip. Really loving the look of the tailcap and it tailstands much better than the E01.
Now if they’d hurry up with the colored versions……
Yay
I was also concerned about how yellow the Yuji warm would be… I can say that it is more orange than a 219c… which Im happy about, because I find 219c too yellow. And yes, the Warm Yuji is very nice at night…
I was curious how the Warm Yuji compared to a 3000k 219c that I have in an Olight i3s, and also to see how the 2000k E21A in my Utorch S1 Mini w Aspheric beam, and my 4500k 219b 9080 Utorch compared… and I threw in an HDS from 2011… so, without further ado, more beamshots:
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Im pretty much done with the purple tinted Fenix after this pic… but in parting I will say, it throws much farther than the Yuji LEDs…
Hotspot overexposes part of the pic:
Floody even beam:
Gotta Love the Warm Yuji when its time to get mellow
Thanks for the crystal clear battery choice write up :+1:
By the way, although outdated and deprecated NiCd might not be a bad choice for use in the C01 as these batteries can be fully drained to 0 Volts. 0 Volt is actually the recommended state for storage according to NASA.
In my extensive review of all - one - of my lights, I have found that the contact surface goes completely to the edge of the circuit board for both contacts:
So there does seem to be a significant variation for this parameter. I certainly hope the lights on my other two orders, moving at the more normal slow pace, look like this first one that I received. But I have used the simple method of just tinning the contact surface with solder when they appear like they are wearing, and the solder provides a durable, replenishable, contact to the battery tube.
Figured I’d update again since Sofirn got back to me very early this morning apologizing and saying they’ll resend the 3200K. And three hours later I got a tracking number for it. 10/10 customer support, even in this busy holiday season.
I’ll probably receive it early January.
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So, I’ve been using the 5600K C01 for a day or so. Pretty good for the price. Epoxy-resin-whatever looked solid to my eyes, I didn’t try poking it though.
Not sure about the anodization thickness or durability, managed to scratch the end while putting the ring on. Quite likely my own fault.
I did notice that the Yuji LED in mine doesn’t look to be perfectly level, i.e. it leans to one side of the “reflector” and you can see a gap on the other side. Not a big deal either.
Threads are excellent, force required to twist just right and as far as the contact surfaces go they look good.