Emisar D4S review

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Lux-Perpetua
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Hank was so kind to tell me the bin codes for the SST-20 5.000K and 6.500K. I took the liberty to write down how to understand those bin codes. However, I also stumbled upon different flux and tint bins in the same overall bin code. Maybe someone with more experience can explain what that's supposed to mean.

 

D4S with SST-20 3.000K

SST-20-W30H-A120-J2302(J4-VH-HD2)

► W30H: W = White, 30 = 3000K, H = 95CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► J2302: J2 = flux bin (min. 102 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 302 = tint bin (HD2)

► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V

 

D4S with SST-20 4.000K

SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J5-VH-FB4)

► W40H: W = White, 40 = 3000K, H = 95CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► J4402: J4 = flux bin (min. 118 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 402 = tint bin (FB4)

► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V

 

D4S with SST-20 5.000K

SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)

► WDS: W = White, D = Daylight White, S = 65CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► L2501: L2 = flux bin (min. 172 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 501 = tint bin (DA)

► VK = minimum Vf with 2.9V

 

D4S with SST-20 6.500K

SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA)

► WCS: W = White, C = Cool White, S = 65CRI

► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle

► L3652: L3 = flux bin (min. 180 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 652 = tint bin (BA)

► VL = minimum Vf with 3.1V

twisted raven
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Ah cool! Glad the 3000k SST20 I got lies below the BBL. It’s a shame nobody can source any 4000k variants that are below the BBL, because that is very much a goldilocks CCT I feel. It’s warm without being overly warm. The greenish tint is nothing a filter can’t fix though (especially since optics and ar glass probably add some green as well.)

If all goes well with the 3000k one, I’ll be ordering a second one for myself.

mortuus
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how different is the beam from sst20 to xpl ?

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SKV89
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twisted raven wrote:
Ah cool! Glad the 3000k SST20 I got lies below the BBL. It’s a shame nobody can source any 4000k variants that are below the BBL, because that is very much a goldilocks CCT I feel. It’s warm without being overly warm. The greenish tint is nothing a filter can’t fix though (especially since optics and ar glass probably add some green as well.)

If all goes well with the 3000k one, I’ll be ordering a second one for myself.

The fireflies one is the FA3 tint bin, which is at or below the BBL. But sometimes the tint bins are not exactly reliable as can be seen with the Samsung LH351D where the DUV is much higher than what the tint bin suggests. Will need the FA1, FA4, FD1, or FD4 tint bin to provide a slightly rosy tint similar to the Cree 5A/5D

Also I find it interesting that Hank sourced the exact same tint bins available at KD but one flux bin up. The 3000k should be marvelous.

Lux-Perpetua
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Can anyone please explain what flux bin this is?

SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)

I feel a bit confused as this code states it is the L2 flux bin but the chromatic bin details state it is L3 flux bin.

zeroflow
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Can anyone please explain what flux bin this is?


SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)


I feel a bit confused as this code states it is the L2 flux bin but the chromatic bin details state it is L3 flux bin.

That’s interesting.

If you follow the datasheet, the lowest bin for the 5000K SST-20 should be the L3 bin.
But mouser is selling a L2 bin..

And to be honest, the difference in flux bins is +30 to +25 lm @ 1500mA, or in other words, +5% on the low end and +4% on the high end.
But you could still be unlucky and get both a 560lm L2 and L3 bin at the same time.

Even at 3A, we’re talking 855 vs. 903 lm

hcjake
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Can anyone give me a hand trying to flash anduril firmware to my D4S? I have the USBASP programmer hooked up and the wires attached. This is what happens anytime I try to flash


$ sudo avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -Uflash:w:anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex:a

avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: Device signature = 0×1e930b (probably t85)
avrdude: NOTE: “flash” memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: reading input file “anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex”
avrdude: input file anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (7296 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 5.20s

avrdude: 7296 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex:
avrdude: input file anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: input file anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex contains 7296 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 3.78s

avrdude: verifying …
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0×0000 0×00 != 0xa4
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

avrdude done. Thank you.

And now my light doesn’t work. I’ve tried flashing back to rampingiosv3.219c.2018-07-14.hex and I get the same verification error.

zeroflow
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As a first measure, do you have another type of USB port to test? Preferred USB 3.0 directly on your Mainboard.

hcjake
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I tried both USB 2.0 and 3.0 on my laptop and on a desktop. I’ve tried both Windows and Linux as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX4WQ00/ is the programmer I’m using.

Man Without Shadow
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try this command format…worked on mine…same usb programmer

avrdude -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.2018-09-07.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a

put your correct file name in of course…

not sure why it would matter, but safemode not disabled on the above command (-u)

let us know!

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

hcjake
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I’m not even getting a connection now, I’ve checked all the wires too.

avrdude: error: program enable: target doesn't answer. 1 avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1 Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check.

What gauge wire are you using from the programmer to your D4S? I tried using these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077×7MKHN wires but the pins were too big to fit into the holes on the light, the pins kept bending when I tried. Then I found some small solid wires around the house, they fit in the holes but they move around a bit. I’m not sure if I’m not getting a good connection, if I bricked the chip on the light or if this programmer is just bad.

Man Without Shadow
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I found some old telephone wire (solid core) from an old land line in the house.

Toykeeper: I’m guessing 26 gauge. Maybe 24.

Look here for a setup pic (not mine, but same as what I did)

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1371440#comment-1371440

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

hcjake
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I will look for some other wire to test with. What part of the holes actually make the connection, do the wires need to touch the bottom of each hole or is the metal around the outside of the holes? It looks like most of the metal is off the SC and V+ holes, so maybe that's my issue.

Man Without Shadow
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Uncertain its the sides or in the holes. I just had the tiny wire put in there until i felt resistance. I found it fiddly to be sure, put a wire in, wire pops out, put it back, put in a wire, pops out…etc…

My wires just shoved in…they were “loose ish” so assuming it was more of a connection IN the holes than just from touching the holes.

If I got lucky and every wire touched the sides of the holes and THAT is what made the connection I got lucky then…cuz that wasn’t what I was going for…

I suspect the wires pass through the holes to the chip legs…

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

ToyKeeper
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When I flash a D4S, I make sure the wires are sticking through the holes, and there is some sideways pressure on them to keep them in contact. I set it up so I don’t have to touch it during the flashing process, to make sure it won’t move and break contact. Then when it’s physically stable, I run the flashing command.

Alen
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driver size?

alchemi
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I use some 5amp fuse wire to finish the connection, to flash the D4S

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1398189#comment-1398189

The wire tips were well into the holes, but probably also had a decent touch to the top edge.

DB Custom
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Been testing some cells and found that a Gold Golisi 26650 at 4300mAh capacity yields 19.22A in my D4S equipped with LH351D W6 5000K emitters. Smile This is better than the 15.06A from a Shockli 5500mAh 26650 and a pair of new Sony’s I just received (one cell at a time of course in the D4S), which make 15.46A although they are only 2600mAh cells and considered to be “vintage”.

cclight
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HKJ’s tests show that the Golisi 4300 has signficantly higher current than any other 26650 cell and VTC5A.

Lux-Perpetua
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Is there a reliable source for the Golisi IMR26650 4300mAh (Gold)? NKON and Akkuteile.de don't have these.

 

I just read on a German website that Golisi uses different cells, i.e. you'll never know what you gonna get.

https://www.dampfer-magazin.de/golisi-akkuhaertetest-im-rmr-testverfahren/

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Use efest instead ? probably better then any golisi or is there something special about them? im gonna use efest or liitokala when i get my grey Warm White – SST20 3000K 95CRI on my way now, very excited to have a warm white d4s tint.

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alchemi wrote:
I got my Ledil Angie lenses, Bezel screws off and lenses are easily swapped out (no need to ‘operate’ on the lens legs like the D4 — this is a straight swap). Here are some beamshots. Top of light about 46cm away from my ceiling, each time brightness was set to standard one click-on level after a tail reset of power. Pics taken using my Galaxy S4 mobile phone set to auto in a dark (not pitch) room.

2285 Angie-S 15 degree, Original D4S
2286 Angie-M 24 degree
2287 Angie-M2 31 degree
2288 Angie-M 37 degree

I use the widest spread 37 degree for the D4S. I use it every morning so I don’t need to turn on room lights at 5am in the kitchen and bathroom. To my pleasant surprise I’ve found the D4S is chunky in the just the right way. It stands up very steadily, and when placed on top of a cupboard aimed at the ceiling it gives a nice amount of light when on low such that I am not yanked into full brightness while still half-asleep!

EDIT: my D4S is Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K, with red aux LEDs.

Thanks to Alchemi who sent me the Ledil-Angie 2287 optic for my testing, I tried using the optic on the D4S Nichia 219C and D4S XPL-Hi 5000K, these are the beamshots:

Left: frosty Ledil-Angie 2287 optic (25-degree beam) ; Right: (from stock) throwy Ledil-Angie 2285 optic (12-degree beam)

Emisar D4S (quad Nichia 219C, stock optic: Ledil-Angie 2285)

Emisar D4S (quad Nichia 219C, frosty optic: Ledil-Angie 2287)

Emisar D4S (quad XPL-Hi 5000K neutral-white, stock optic: Ledil-Angie 2285)

Emisar D4S (quad XPL-Hi 5000K neutral-white, frosty optic: Ledil-Angie 2287)

nick779
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d_t_a wrote:
alchemi wrote:
I got my Ledil Angie lenses, Bezel screws off and lenses are easily swapped out (no need to ‘operate’ on the lens legs like the D4 — this is a straight swap). Here are some beamshots. Top of light about 46cm away from my ceiling, each time brightness was set to standard one click-on level after a tail reset of power. Pics taken using my Galaxy S4 mobile phone set to auto in a dark (not pitch) room.

2285 Angie-S 15 degree, Original D4S
2286 Angie-M 24 degree
2287 Angie-M2 31 degree
2288 Angie-M 37 degree

I use the widest spread 37 degree for the D4S. I use it every morning so I don’t need to turn on room lights at 5am in the kitchen and bathroom. To my pleasant surprise I’ve found the D4S is chunky in the just the right way. It stands up very steadily, and when placed on top of a cupboard aimed at the ceiling it gives a nice amount of light when on low such that I am not yanked into full brightness while still half-asleep!

EDIT: my D4S is Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K, with red aux LEDs.

Thanks to Alchemi who sent me the Ledil-Angie 2287 optic for my testing, I tried using the optic on the D4S Nichia 219C and D4S XPL-Hi 5000K, these are the beamshots:

I like the original, but Im digging the slightly smoother 2286 too. 2287 might be too floody for my tastes unless dedicated for indoors. It would be great on a dedicated candle/night D4S.

Klickmans
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Arrived in Sweden last week, looks good and feels just fine. I like the amber leds mucho.

No complains, included was the black version of the battery, and the magnet is so strong.

 

 

 Yes, im a noob that (yet) do not now how to insert the picture. https://ibb.co/QKBssNn

 

To be, continued.

 

 

Hi, my Geek-name is Klickmans. I am a Flashaholic.
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nokoff
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Green with Amber looks good together. Thanks for the photo!

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i42dk
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“frosty Ledil-Angie 2287 optic” sweeeeet. Where does one acquire this ? Love

Touchofred
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Fan så fint !

I ordered a black with sst20 4000k with amber aux.
The Amber aux looks awesome Big Smile seems that the amber is the least popular?

Klickmans wrote:

Arrived in Sweden last week, looks good and feels just fine. I like the amber leds mucho.


No complains, included was the black version of the battery, and the magnet is so strong.


 


 


 Yes, im a noob that (yet) do not now how to insert the picture. https://ibb.co/QKBssNn


 


To be, continued.


 


 

mortuus
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haha japp!
i ordered a 3000k sst20 red aux.

Touchofred wrote:
Fan så fint !

I ordered a black with sst20 4000k with amber aux.
The Amber aux looks awesome Big Smile seems that the amber is the least popular?

Klickmans wrote:

Arrived in Sweden last week, looks good and feels just fine. I like the amber leds mucho.


No complains, included was the black version of the battery, and the magnet is so strong.


 


 


 Yes, im a noob that (yet) do not now how to insert the picture. https://ibb.co/QKBssNn


 


To be, continued.


 


 

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Touchofred
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Najs. Would be fun to try a 3000k, but im afraid it Will be to yellow.

mortuus wrote:
haha japp!
i ordered a 3000k sst20 red aux.

Touchofred wrote:
Fan så fint !

I ordered a black with sst20 4000k with amber aux.
The Amber aux looks awesome Big Smile seems that the amber is the least popular?

Klickmans wrote:

Arrived in Sweden last week, looks good and feels just fine. I like the amber leds mucho.


No complains, included was the black version of the battery, and the magnet is so strong.


 


 


 Yes, im a noob that (yet) do not now how to insert the picture. https://ibb.co/QKBssNn


 


To be, continued.


 


 

learningtofly
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I have 3 of these D4S (sorry TK) and I just ordered the SST-20 5000k. I love the ability to get the exact amount of light on what I am shining. So far I am very happy with every tint I have gotten, 219c, XP-L HI, and the XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885k.

The 4885k is the rosiest of them all, which is OK but I like white light the best.

Really love the tints of the 219c and the XP-L HI, there great.
Keep them coming Hank, 5000k with high CRI would be great.

Now for that SST-20 to get here………

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