TK's Emisar D4 review

First time trying this glue. I wouldn’t call it a super glue. Sets in 30 minutes cures in 24 hours. Don’t stick your fingers together like super glue does.

A 1/16th inch disk would probably been enough. Was thinking the hole could be filled with epoxy or black JB weld. I still might. I have had better luck completely covering neo magnets in the past. They tend to chip off on the edges. They are brittle.

K&J Magnets is where I found these. I will probably order some more. I remember a coated version.

I don’t feel I need to glue the clip. It has not moved at all in the few days I have carried it.

This is still a work in progress. I also would like a way to attach a small 3” loop lanyard. It might work on the clip itself. Will update.

I love magnetic tailcaps. Ideally, I fit a small magnet within the tailspring, but some lights won’t allow that.

For securing magnets to the outside of tailcaps, I’ve had good luck with Loctite 5-minute Clear Epoxy. I scratch up the nickel coating of the magnet and the anodizing of the tailcap before installing.

I suggest N52 grade magnets, which are stronger than N42 grade.

My Zebralight SC5w weighs 90 grams (3.2 oz) with an AA Eneloop installed.

Amazingly, a 1/32” thick x 3/4” diameter N52 magnet holds the SC5w to even a painted vertical steel surface. My H51w has one too.

The D4 with a cell weighs about 120 grams, so I’d go with at least a 1/16” thick N52 just to be safe.

Add SST-20 options for the D4.

SST-20 6500K: 4200lm

SST-20 5000K: 4000lm

SST-20 4000K/3000K 95CRI: 3000lm

please consider bringing back the green and cyan color options, the available now are dull and boring .

Oh my poor wallet! Still semi-holding out / hoping for different body colours before I buy more.

Hank, is it upgraded to RampingOS V3?

FYI: the current batch of aluminum Emisar D4 at International Outdoors are partially lego-able with the all Titanium D4s.

Their aluminum heads fit on the titanium body tubes.

Were the original batch not lego-able? O saw several Ti with aluminum heads after they came out.

Any opinion of the new SST20 led compared to the Nichia and XP-L 5000k?

I second Alex64’s request. I am interested in any information on the SST20’s in general.

I’d like a floodier version with XPL; the Nichia doesn’t have enough output and efficiency. Considering the result with the XPL-HD in the D4S, I’d like it in the D4 as well. Should maintain the lumens and drastically spread the beam.

You can put the floody optic instead of the regular one. Would that be sufficient?

I don’t know. I have no idea of lumen and throw with the frosted optics.

I ordered mine with frosted optics,then got the narrow to swap. I noticed big difference. Almost like 2 different lights. They are both bright, lemons very close.

That’s two different emitters in the same light, for higher CRI?

As others have suggested before, It would be so nice if Hank invested in developing a current regulated driver with the D4 user interface. Instead of making these 219C and SST-20 D4’s just hot and inefficient, they could be run in a much more efficient regime, with not that much lower output.
With more and more emitters with extreme low voltages, such regulated driver (perhaps even buck- ) would be an asset for the Emisar brand flashlights.

That would be outstanding.

I wondered the same thing but it’s not. It’s two choices and you can see it if you scroll down the page on intl-outdoor to make your selection.

Here’s what I copied and pasted:

Neutral White - SST20 4000K 95CRI
Warm White - SST20 3000K 95CRI

I wonder if it was feasable to order the D4 or D4S with a 2x2 array of SST20 5.000K with 6500K or 3000K with 4000K. I wouldn't want to mix 65CRI and 95CRI, though.

All builders could heed the voice of reason and sanity in this ‘sizzle sells’ market.
It is precisely why I use a MecArmy PT16/18 instead of my D4 lights.