[BLF special edition light] new Sofirn AAA twisty high CRI Yuji 5mm LED (CCT 3200K or 5600K) for 6.50 USD

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dealgrabber2002
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Why you slice it, djozz?

Gave mine a shower last night, passed the waterproof in flying color.

defloyd77
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Withholding important scientific data is strictly forbidden.

slowtechstef
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This evening my son (10) gave me this C01 "diffuser cap" as a present.

Happy dad with a great bed side light now. 

ˆ_ˆ

 

djozz
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^ Welterusten! Smile

goshdogit
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slowtechstef wrote:
This evening my son (10) gave me this C01 “diffuser cap” as a present.
Excellent work! I especially love the smiling moon!

Is that his artwork in your new avatar as well?

manithree
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Stupid question, but it just occurred to me. Do these “strawhat” LEDs work similarly to the Cree/Nichia/etc. with a blue LED covered in phosphor? Or are they something different?

Gebe
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djozz wrote:
HONDARIDER wrote:
I ordered 1 of each this morning to see what all the hype is about.
Uh oh, now you will find out that it is just a nice little light with nice tint and pretty weak output. Facepalm

Just received my 5600K version. I also was curious about these Yuji High CRI LED’s. dijozz’s post just about sums it up for me. Wink

It’s a very nice light for $7.00, (what I paid), though. Kind of reminds me of my ARC AAA I had years ago except the ARC had a bit better build but was expensive for it’s day and of course the Yuji is a much better 5mm LED then ARC could source back in the day.

The tint on my 5600K is very nice. My example also twists on and off very smoothly. All in all, it’s a very nice $7.00 light.

By the way, I plan on installing the 5×3mm magnet and trit in the tail. I just use Duco cement to install the trits. I’ve installed a few trits with it and it works great. It dries crystal clear, is cheap and really holds. I prep the slot with 90% rubbing alcohol, lay the trit in and cover with the Duco.

djozz
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What I tried was this, I sacrified a second C01 for it:

I wanted a mule with evenly tinted light in all directions for checking an integrating sphere, and indeed up to the very edge of the beam I measure the same spectrum with my spectrometer.

P33
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I thought throw increases after dedoming Shocked

dealgrabber2002
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what machine you used to do that djozz?

Lagittaja
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To my eyes those look like sanding marks.

djozz
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dealgrabber2002 wrote:
what machine you used to do that djozz?

A small band saw, then a disc sander, then sand paper.
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After this run of C01’s sell out, Sofirn should make the second version with two modes. (5 lumens / 180 lumens) Is the Yugi LED capable of 100+ lumens?

arow55
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SfGiants4000 wrote:
After this run of C01’s sell out, Sofirn should make the second version with two modes. (5 lumens / 180 lumens) Is the Yugi LED capable of 100+ lumens?

I think not even 18.
jon_slider
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SfGiants4000 wrote:
(5 lumens / 180 lumens)

that would be a different light Smile
available from Olight
iamlucky13
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Haha! I wondered from the first picture if djozz might have been “de-doming” a 5mm emitter for some reason.

Sorry to hear the first one didn’t survive. Looks like you got more than just the bond wires.

manithree wrote:
Stupid question, but it just occurred to me. Do these “strawhat” LEDs work similarly to the Cree/Nichia/etc. with a blue LED covered in phosphor? Or are they something different?

Yes, they work basically the same. However, Yuji specializes entirely in high CRI phosphors.

They also use violet LED’s in some of their products (VTC series), which extends improvements in color rendering to the deep blues and purple range, but reduces efficiency and results in a higher forward voltage. Extension into the violet range is less critical than extension into the red range for viewing skin tones and wood, but can still be important for viewing artwork, for example.

By the way, I’ve generally understood “straw hat” to refer specifically to LED’s with an inverted or dimpled dome, like some straw hats have (example), which provides a very wide beam.

SfGiants4000
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Ya I have the i3t but something like that with high CRI and nice warm tint 3200/4000 would even if the high was around 50-100 lumens. I guess the one thing like that is the reylight, but I’m waiting to see if a new version of the pineapple gets made. I really like lights that can clip to hats. I do have a couple C01’s because they seem cool, especially the warm one, but it’d be nice if they were brighter or two modes.

manithree
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iamlucky13 wrote:
Yes, they work basically the same. However, Yuji specializes entirely in high CRI phosphors.

Thanks for the explanation!

iamlucky13 wrote:
By the way, I’ve generally understood “straw hat” to refer specifically to LED’s with an inverted or dimpled dome, like some straw hats have (example), which provides a very wide beam.

And, of course, you are correct. I had heard that, and somewhere seen “strawhat” applied to the Yujis, so I assumed it applied to all the old-school non-SMT LED packaging, but it doesn’t.

Again, thanks.

Noir
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SfGiants4000 have a look at the soon to be released creation from Clemence (Link to infoLink to Prototype), it might be the light you're looking for. Its a customized JETBeam Jet-µ with a huge selection of high CRI emitters.

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Mine arrived as well, 2×3200K & 2×5600K. Nice build quality and smooth threads.

Not a great fan of the very small hotspot which looks like a speckle. It’s more visible in the cool white version.

Big tint difference in the 3200K ones I got:

djozz
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Both slowtechstef and I, it was my second C01 order so a bit later than the first 2, got C01’s with a terrible clip, thinner than from the first order and it bends away without springing into shape again like a clip (even on my cheapest $0.10 ballpoint) normally does. This clip is complete garbage. I think it is a big flaw and can not imagine that it went unnoticed when Sofirn ordered them/ assembled the flashlights.

I sent Barry an email telling Sofirn exactly this.

If you can do this with a clip like it is a ordinary piece of iron wire, it is useless as a clip:

P33
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My is really quite strong and springy. I mean really strong. It’s from the first batch, I ordered minutes after they appeared on aliexpress.
The only downside is that it’s painted and this finish is never durable enough so I’ll probably remove the paint completely.
Too bad if they changed clip to a crappy one.

hank
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It’s always the subcontractor’s fault. Can’t watch’em carefully enough.

iamlucky13
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maukka wrote:
Mine arrived as well, 2×3200K & 2×5600K. Nice build quality and smooth threads.

Not a great fan of the very small hotspot which looks like a speckle. It’s more visible in the cool white version.

Thanks for the excellent data, as always.

I haven’t seen a hotspot in the handful of uninstalled Yuji’s I have, so I think the spots multiple users have documented are due to the “reflector” that isn’t really intended as such. When I get mine, I might try painting the reflector on one white to see if that smooths it out.

I’m also surprised to see how much difference there is between your 3200K samples. Comparing your chromaticity diagram to the datasheet, the rosier one should be well-inside the F8-1 tint bin, but the other one might actually fall in the F5-1 bin.

Regardless, every Yuji I’ve seen, from a couple different batches, has looked great, so this doesn’t ultimately affect my eagerness for the C01.

Noir wrote:
SfGiants4000 have a look at the soon to be released creation from Clemence (Link to info; Link to Prototype), it might be the light you’re looking for. Its a customized JETBeam Jet-µ with a huge selection of high CRI emitters.

Very cool! I would love to try an Optisolis or E21A light in a couple different color temperatures.

djozz
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Quote:
Very cool! I would love to try an Optisolis or E21A light in a couple different color temperatures.

Same here, I would not mind as a Christmas gift a set of Clemence’s Jetbeam mods with all available Optisolis colour temps.
polarweis
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just got mine in today. 5600k is a really nice color. it came in a cute tiny box lol.

So where to buy a magnet and tritium insert for the rear?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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I’m really digging the warm Yuji now in the evening. It brings out the orange in a pair of Fiskars scissors perfectly. Almost as nice as a Viltrox LED panel.

iamlucky13
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djozz wrote:
Quote:
Very cool! I would love to try an Optisolis or E21A light in a couple different color temperatures.
Same here, I would not mind as a Christmas gift a set of Clemence’s Jetbeam mods with all available Optisolis colour temps.

Continuing off-topic, if I can be forgiven for doing so for a moment, I’ve got an even more exotic idea, although definitely beyond the scope of what Clemence is doing: a two channel quad with tint-ramping between 2700K and 5600K or so.

Presumably the driver could be similar to the BLF lantern, but as a floody flashlight or headlamp. Something D4-like (probably 7135 based, not FET) would be awesome. If a cluster arrangement like the VR16SP4 could work to enable something closer to the Olight S1 in size, even better.

Ok, sorry for fantasizing for a bit. Back to the C01 – I’m still hoping the color versions show up soon.

jon_slider
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maukka wrote:
Not a great fan of the very small hotspot … I’m really digging the warm Yuji now in the evening. It brings out the orange in a pair of Fiskars scissors perfectly. Almost as nice as a Viltrox LED panel.

thanks for the spectral info
great to see that the 5600k has such high R9
I also love the Warm Yuji, when my brain is white balanced to the Incandescent light in my house.

iamlucky13 wrote:
I think the spots multiple users have documented are due to the “reflector” that isn’t really intended as such. When I get mine, I might try painting the reflector on one white to see if that smooths it out.

I think you might be right that the hotspot is caused by shiny reflector cone. I suggest you make it Flat Black, not white. Maybe sandpaper would reduce the reflectivity of the silver cone. I am not suggesting sanding the LED dome.

I tried a test, using black electrical tape, and it did reduce the hotspot.
But not completely, maybe because the tape did not block all the shiny cone at the bottom of the reflector, around the led itself. Or because the tape itself is shiny..

result, inconclusive, but suggests that blacking out the reflector cone may be a good idea.

P33
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I managed to remove black paint from the clip. I think it actually looks much better with bare steel.

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