Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

I need to do it over using a smd led. Parasitic drain is crazy high. I ordered some 3x3x2mm trim pots so I can easily adjust the brightness. I’ll post pictures when I redo it.

I noticed that sp33 has relatively short run time on high, less than the c8f and about the same as the sp32a. Is the XHP50 a less efficient emitter?This is from the Sofirn specs. (I know the 26650 an 18650 run times are reversed for the sp33 chart)

I’m in the same boat, ordered 11/11, shipped 11/26, no further updates.

I never pay attention to factory run time charts. They rarely give all the details and are usually way off.

As far as efficiency (power used/lumens out) the xhp50.2 is pretty normal. Consider it’s using 4 x XPG2 (or XPG3?) at a fairly low current where their efficiency is better. The SP32A uses a single XPL at a much higher current where it’s efficiency is poor. The C8F uses 3 x xpl so it’s efficiency should be better, about the same as the xhp50.2. Then you have driver efficiency and the reflector/lens efficiency. They all factor in. Then the manufacturer lumen ratings might be off a little. The C8F uses a FET driver so it’s brightness level drops as battery voltage goes down. The SP33 v2 is a boost driver and mostly maintains the brightness levels. The SP32A I’m not sure what driver design it has. Etc… :weary:

It’s too complicated for me.

I guess I won the ‘AliExpress Shipping Lottery’…… for the first time ever!! :smiley:

I placed my order 23 November 2018 & mine just Processed Through Facility ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) today.

It should be here soon… “should” being the operative word. :+1: . :wink:

Okay, I tried many different switch led combos.

This one is the orange-ish red led. It’s an led I had laying around and it seemed to run fine at 4.2v with no resistor. It was not even that bright. It lasted about 15 minutes. I guess it burned up. It drew a crazy 144mA. Not 144uA like you might expect, but 1000 times higher! Basically 144,000uA. No good at all.

Next I tried a white smd led and a 8k resistor. It was too dim. I tried a 2k resistor (850uA drain) and it was still too dim.

I decided to switch to a blue led (950uA drain) as well as elevate it up to the switch button tube to increase the brightness. It’s not as bright as I’d like, but we are limited by this switch design. This will get the job done. :partying_face:

I didn’t notice before. There are two footprints for FETs?

Oh, but the boost-converter has the switch built in, so the FET (s) is for reverse polarity protection?

Thanks Jason , I have to try remove the driver first.

Here is a guide. The best way is to push the wires down and out of the way. Then take a small diameter rod and tap lightly on the negative side hole. The positive side hole does have a few nearby components, so you have to feel around to make sure and avoid them.

Set the head on a vice or something solid. Something that will not absorb the energy of the hammer taps. Then do very light taps. The driver has to slide out evenly due to the vertical board. I did a few light taps on one side and then switched over to the other side. I went back and forth until it seemed like the glue had snapped loose. Then I was able to pull the driver out by the spring. I had to both pull and wiggle. You can also push the driver with a rod as you’re pulling. Just be careful not to get it crooked or it will jam up.

Here is a close up of the upper right area.


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That helpfull thanks again any idea to slice the dome of 50.2 ?

I have no reason to slice.

Thanks Jason for the run time explanation. I will have to just give mine a try and see how it lasts. It’s just odd that the 26650 SP33 doesn’t outlast the 18650s by a good margin on paper at least at about the1000 lumen mode.

Great light . Had mine out in a snow storm last night. I’m a NW fan so it took some time to adjust to CW. Not bad though. My MyBoxer IR reading was 071m ohm with the Sofirn battery. It reads about half this for the Schockli 5500 but I don’t put much faith in these readings. The UI is different from my other lights but ok. The beam is what is best, for me anyway. It fills the yard with even light with a little throw. This the kind of light I keep ready on the table for quick looks outside and walks. This is my third 26650 light and I like them all. They feel good in the hand and the extra capacity is nice. Good job Sofirn.

:+1:
Thanks for the pictures!
Very helpful.

I tried yesterday, not by tapping but by pushing.
I applied heat too.
Didn’t work…
So apparently the glue has to ‘crack’ or the PCB has to be tapped loose from the glue or the head.
No problems on the left, but a little risky on the right…

When going to ML with long press, does this light turn on to the memorized mode (potentially destroying night vision) before it goes to ML like the C8F does? I can put up with a lot, but that might be one thing with which up I cannot put.

No.
Press and hold opens ML mode. Short press for off.
No other way to turn on ML, not possible to go to other modes from ML.

will dedoming the led give a tighter hotspot? even with the orange peel reflector? I asked sofirn to include a smooth reflector in my order. the old one was SMO so i hope i can just switch it out. Does anyone have the old and the new model?

Are you refering to the 18650 version C8F?

My 21700 version goes straight to moonlight.

Well, you can go from moonlight to turbo if you want.

Yes. A bit tighter hotspot for longer throw, but also a bit less brightness.

The OP texture is really light. I doubt you would see much difference going to SMO. I imagine the SMO will measure a bit higher lux, though.

DB Custom will have both v1 and v2 pretty soon. Comparing pics, the reflector hole at the bottom of the SMO looks similar to the OP so you may not need to drill it bigger. You never know, it might require some massaging to get it to fit over the xhp50.2

Yep, the 18650 version. It turns on as soon as the button is pressed and goes to the remembered mode, and only goes to ML after the button has been held down long enough to distinguish that it’s a hold. It drives me crazy. They should have just skipped the ML altogether on that light.

I guess you can cover the end of the light real quick whenever you need moonlight. A bit inconvenient.

The newer UI on the 21700 is definitely an improvement. I didn’t even bother buying the 18650 version because of it’s UI. I think it was one click on, press/hold for off. That really annoys me.