Banggood seems to sell a version of this Boruit EHL0628 but is known as the Xanes D10 headlamp. I haven’t tried ordering from BG so I’m not sure if it’s exactly the same or they just look the same (based on the item description and usage operation and the pictures posted). I got the EHL0628 from their official store in AliExpress.
Do u have the specs for a boruit rj3000 headlamp
I finally got around to changing the LED and optics in my EHL0628 (XP-L ON 16mm copper and TIR).
I didn’t want to solder an extension to the wire so I took off the driver and soldered longer wires directly to it. I took the chance to shoot some photos.
Note that this is the old version bought almost a year ago, the new version has a new UI (with stepless dimming).
[Edit: Sorry, no new version and no new UI. I misunderstood the phrase “stepless dimming” (I’m not a native English speaker)]
Charging circuit:
Looks like two TP4057 chips in parallel.
The driver:
A quick guess would be that the unmarked SO-8 IC is an MCU that is providing PWM to switch two transistors (SOT-23-3 chips) through current limiting resistors (the 3 1ohms in parallel).
The two boards are separated by a plastic spacer (sorry about the quality, took this one with my phone’s camera):
New UI? Stepless dimming? When?Where? 
This D10 has only had one UI as far as I remember.
Stepless dimming = 5 steps - LOL
Well, all the places that sell this headlamp now say it has stepless dimming. Some examples:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item//32826991825.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item//32824362452.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item//32836243713.html
Guys, do you think that there is no new UI? You think the sellers just misinterpreted “stepless dimming”?
Because if that is the case, I’d like to edit my post to reflect this, as not to mislead people.
Well it has “stepless dimming”, but that is via press-n-hold, while the “normal operation” (simple click and let go) goes through two modes. Is this how yours operates?
-Garry
Mine works exactly like yours.
But I thought “stepless dimming” means that the PWM can be ramped, E.G. like the Boruit RJ-02.
5 steps via press-and-hold are still steps, aren’t they?
Now I’m confused… 
“Stepless dimming” is literally the 5 different brightness levels. It is not like ramping or like the RJ02. It’s misleading, but no big deal.
Thanks to both of you for clarifying, I edited my post.
Yes the stepless dimming is NOT what you think it is . It's a pure poor translation on their part and has confused everyone who ever entered this thread .
It isn't a bad User interface and it's pretty simple to use .
- first click is medium mode…. so from Medium you have 5 basic options
- #1 wait a second or two and click again to OFF..so- [ med...then WAIT ….OFF]
- #2 don't wait at all and make a second quick click to high.....so - [ click click is med. then high .]
- #3 CLICK CLICK CLICK ... med / high / off /...bang bang bang /simple as pie . 3 normal clicks .
- #4 Click the light on to medium … and then holding down the button will cause the light to start cycling thru the lights 5 modes.(downward)~ med/low/moon?/high/not-so-high/med/low/notreallya moon/high/ etc etc etc . cycling works from any mode if you hold the button down .
- #5 Two fast clicks from any mode/even from off ...takes you into nasty Strobe /two more fast clicks into SOS mode /and two more into a nice slow beacon mode .
Thanks, Boaz!
I got my D10s direct from Boruit just this week. It’s a fantastic little light. I got a few as spares for modding and I’ll be putting an order in with MTN today for a TIR 60.
I’d like to grab a few warm LEDs on 20mm boards. Should I go with the Nichia 219C or LH351D? Will the stock driver be capable of driving both? Thanks for the input.
@CarbonCrew, if you want more flood/a bit more lumens than the 219C, get the LH351D.
If you want more throw and even better color rendition, I would advise buying the SST-20 4000k from Kaidomain.
@blueswordm Perfect. I think I’ll an SST-20 as well. 3000k with 95+ cri sounds great.
Can anyone advise me on removing the driver? I’ve got the threaded retaining ring out and have exposed the driver. I’m afraid to mash on it too hard. Does it thread in?
Why are you removing the driver? There’s no need to.
I’ve been experimenting with my D10’ with TIR’s. I tried the LH351D 4000K 95cri and I thought it was a bit too yellow for my tastes. The LH351D in 5000K was pretty darn nice. Nicer than the 219C in 5000K. Yesterday I tried a 319AT 5000K, wow it’s nice. I’m going to guess it was below the BBL because there was no green or yellow at all. It might have a tiny bit of pink or rosiness to it. Color rendition is the best I’ve seen. Anyway, I just thought I’d mention it.
I wanted to remove the driver in the event that the existing leads are too short. I’m not a fan of adding extensions and would rather just replace the entire wire. Removal might be unnecessary but I’m curious as well.
@quadruple That looks fantastic. I’ve got a TIR 60 coming, lh351d, 319at, and SST-20 on the way. Is that your video?
Changing the driver is easy, sorta. The real challenge is in keeping the built in charging.
The stock driver seems to be pretty darn good in my opinion, so I have not messed with it.