(Cancelled)D1S+, CSLNM1.TG LED, 850lm, 320kcd

Ditto, a Buck driver for all the Emisar models would make them all winners in my book.

No, not far from the peak performance at all actually.
The difference between 4 and 5 Amperes in output numbers is hardly worth overdriving this LED so hard.
You could make it 13 × 7135 though, and get 4.55 Amperes, which is a good compromise.
But i doubt there’s enough room on a single sided driver board for so many 7135’s.
But then again, why not design a dual sided driver board?
This little White Flat has a nice low Vf so it’s suitable for 7135 drivers.

Buck drivers always eat up a little Voltage, they have a minimum voltage drop.
Maybe the same as the old tech 7135 though, which have a minimum voltage drop of 0.15 Volts.
But more expensive and you need more space (hight) for the inductor, especially with high currents.

Looks like it’s time to go back to QLites and stacking chips…

Hank please use this led in the D4S, it should work with the stock driver and get super results

That would be my first d4s then :slight_smile:

13 chips would be the hot setup, or 12 380's. I think somewhere there's an 7+1 or 8+1 OSHPark driver, but probably not to accommodate the Attiny85, or have DEL's tweaks to get the 25/45/85 working more reliably. The most important issue is having the 4.7R before all uses of Batt+ -- this was the biggest issue. Of course the FET gate stuff isn't needed with no FET. Pretty sure I've done 2 channel ramping with a 7+1 or 8+1 style driver, as long as you use the Eagle claw 7135's, least for the single.

If the size is the same as the D4, I’ve made a 1+2+5+moon driver with the 85. If you want to upgrade, you could stack the inner 3 7135 chips and get a total of 11 in a 2+4+8 config to get up to 3.8A

Exactly!
I have a Convoy S8 with this led but sure I will make a 13 or 14x7135 C8

Waiting for sub ohm sense resistors here, to stack on LD25 drivers.
Aiming for 4 - 4.5 Amperes.

Hey Hank , stop teasing us, first you get us exited by saying you’ll be making a D7 & then tell us it’s a no go , then this D1s+ which is also not gonna happen. :cry:
Please don’t tease us anymore ,in future please keep new developments to yerself until it’s up & ready & gonna be for sale.
This isn’t a negative whine because I highly rate your lights & consider them at the top of the pile & I can’t wait for more new ones but I get so disappointed when I think the next best thing is coming & find out it’s not.

Yeah, I was so bummed when I found out Santa uses drones rather than reindeer. :frowning:

+ :+1:

that’s the point of a feeler, it wasn’t a promise. They want to gauge interest and most of us like to get prepared. I don’t mind feelers

I still think he can do it; there are options others have given. Maybe we will see something even better come out of this.

Hank can do it better and way less expensive than a custom modder so I’ll wait to see what happens. I’d also like a D4S with these emitters :slight_smile:

Hmm… The D1S is begging for an LED like the White Flat 1mm², and it would definitely sell.
But the White Flat 1mm² is begging for a current regulated driver, which is not (yet) available for Emisar.
But the trend in LED land is low Vf, so it’s time for Emisar to get a current regulated driver available.
It shouldn’t be that much more expensive than the DD driver i.m.o.
And it will open the door to more choice in emitters, like Nichia 219B V1 for the quads, without risking their lives.
The electrical path can be optimized as far as you wish, and you can use the highest drain cells.
Longer run times in the highest modes without immediately losing output.

Come on Hank, get some proper drivers for your sweet little lights.
I might even buy one !

D7 cancelled. D1S+ cancelled. I conclude Hank Wang only produces quality lights without consumers being guinea pigs. Excellent. :+1: :sunglasses:

which driver should i use with this led? im thinking about putting is in a c8+ or maybe L2.

It depends on what you want from the driver. If you want the best, most efficient driver, get a L4P driver tuned to the proper current. If you just want it to be “regulated” and have a decent UI, you should get a driver that uses AMC7135 chips for power, PWM for lower modes, and Anduril firmware.

Have you tried this? I’ve only tried with two different generic nanjg drivers so far but the 2mm white flat didn’t light up at all with those.

My mini-GT driver seems to have lost the 7135 part of the ramping after I tried the 2mm2 White Flat (it is still gone with the new led, a dedomed XP-G2). It seems to make little sense if the White Flat with its low voltage was the cause of the damage, but after what you noticed with the NANJG driver I tought it’d be relevant to mention here.