13 chips would be the hot setup, or 12 380's. I think somewhere there's an 7+1 or 8+1 OSHPark driver, but probably not to accommodate the Attiny85, or have DEL's tweaks to get the 25/45/85 working more reliably. The most important issue is having the 4.7R before all uses of Batt+ -- this was the biggest issue. Of course the FET gate stuff isn't needed with no FET. Pretty sure I've done 2 channel ramping with a 7+1 or 8+1 style driver, as long as you use the Eagle claw 7135's, least for the single.
If the size is the same as the D4, I’ve made a 1+2+5+moon driver with the 85. If you want to upgrade, you could stack the inner 3 7135 chips and get a total of 11 in a 2+4+8 config to get up to 3.8A
Hey Hank , stop teasing us, first you get us exited by saying you’ll be making a D7 & then tell us it’s a no go , then this D1s+ which is also not gonna happen.
Please don’t tease us anymore ,in future please keep new developments to yerself until it’s up & ready & gonna be for sale.
This isn’t a negative whine because I highly rate your lights & consider them at the top of the pile & I can’t wait for more new ones but I get so disappointed when I think the next best thing is coming & find out it’s not.
Hmm… The D1S is begging for an LED like the White Flat 1mm², and it would definitely sell.
But the White Flat 1mm² is begging for a current regulated driver, which is not (yet) available for Emisar.
But the trend in LED land is low Vf, so it’s time for Emisar to get a current regulated driver available.
It shouldn’t be that much more expensive than the DD driver i.m.o.
And it will open the door to more choice in emitters, like Nichia 219B V1 for the quads, without risking their lives.
The electrical path can be optimized as far as you wish, and you can use the highest drain cells.
Longer run times in the highest modes without immediately losing output.
Come on Hank, get some proper drivers for your sweet little lights.
I might even buy one !
It depends on what you want from the driver. If you want the best, most efficient driver, get a L4P driver tuned to the proper current. If you just want it to be “regulated” and have a decent UI, you should get a driver that uses AMC7135 chips for power, PWM for lower modes, and Anduril firmware.
My mini-GT driver seems to have lost the 7135 part of the ramping after I tried the 2mm2 White Flat (it is still gone with the new led, a dedomed XP-G2). It seems to make little sense if the White Flat with its low voltage was the cause of the damage, but after what you noticed with the NANJG driver I tought it’d be relevant to mention here.
Good to hear, I did not wish to cause panic, was just sharing my observation, the damaging of the mini-GT driver may not have anything to do with the 2mm white flat.