I bought the XPL Hi V2 3A 5000K Neutral White. I’ve been reading about some battery restrictions for the Nichia 219B. Other than some of the size issues are there any amp issues? Can I use an EFEST 35A for example?
[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ENDED
Finally received my lights. After being held in my local postage service for a week.
Had that same feeling too! Red led ?
I’m curious. All I’ve ever heard and read is that his stuff kicks butt and then takes names for more orders. Also the skies open, ethereal angelic-like beings are heard singing, and the dead are known to arise from their graves - besides just being an average legend. Other than that he must overall be a pretty good decent modder. I kinda surmise besides big time driver pro savvy he prolly gets uber top bins like you and I inhale and exhale. Butt IDK. I sorta envision him…
post #192
The red light in the center is a warning that the voltage is low.
It happens when unscrewing the light because, for a very brief moment, the voltage passes through the “low” range before it hits zero.
It also happens when the battery is genuinely low.
Nice feature!
I just got my pl47 219b. I am not happy with it. I put 10 amp 18650 and the light goes straight to blinking mode.
I can’t switch modes… it stay on low…
How can I reset to factory ramping mode?
did you tighten the rear cap well?
My other pl47 xpl hi 5000k is working fine…
This pl47 219b is no good… aux was off from the factory… i click 7 times to turn it on…
When i press the button, th aux will turn off… then the low mode came on. Then the light switch modes by itself…
Junk junk junk
mine had a low mode and it was blinking because it did not have good contact. I have to tighten the rear cap quite strongly. your apparently has a more serious problem.
Yes… i have tighten the tailcap good… the light start blinking every 10 seconds…
I will contact FF.
It gets brighter on its own. Wonder if it is in some kind of test mode. Maybe Toykeeper might know?
How do you guys deal with the warranty?? Do you send the defective light back to china??
From what I’ve read, seems like Jack will just send you a new one. You might have to show him a video to show how it’s defective.
Guys one question please
what's the difference between Anduril UI and Narsil UI please?
My other pl47 xpl hi 5000k is working fine…
This pl47 219b is no good… aux was off from the factory… i click 7 times to turn it on…
When i press the button, th aux will turn off… then the low mode came on. Then the light switch modes by itself…
Junk junk junk
You could look to Lexel for an explanation/solution.
I think that he is responsible for the overall electronic design. Basically just yet another derivative FET +n knockoff.
He also designed the aux. LED board but has chosen not to share the details with us.
I doubt that you will hear anything from FF. Communication is not what he does.
The firmware seems to be based on TK’s open source, but not necessarily tailored properly. so Caveat Emptor. As always. Do your homework.
That said, your failure reports suggest basic manufacturing problems, not just firmware/hardware integration issues.
How do you guys deal with the warranty?? Do you send the defective light back to china??
I wrote to Fireflies about my faulty light next day I receive mail from Jack, he asked for a video and said they will send me replacement light. Yesterday I sent them the video and now I’m waiting for reply.
ToyKeeper:FWIW, the inside of my PL47 measures 21.8 mm in diameter. The cell I’m using measures 21.3 mm by 70.5 to 70.1 mm depending on where I measure it. 70.5 mm including the wrapper, or about 70.1 mm between + and - contacts.
Some other things which may be worth noting:
- On the 219B version, a high-amp cell could actually result in fewer lumens than a lower-amp cell. It could easily drive the emitters on the wrong (overheated) side of their output curve, overshooting the peak. So… use the recommended cells.
- Apparently the light ships in muggle mode by default, so output may seem pretty unimpressive until it’s put back into regular modes.
- Double-click from off does not go to turbo by default. To get to full power, turn the light on and then double click.
I got my pl47 nichia 219b yesterday. Using 30T at 3.5v or Sanyo ga with adapter, the turbo works fine.
Using a fully charged 30T, turbo will overdrive the led, giving a purplish bluish tint.
So stick to toykeeper’s advice. Recommended cells only.
Just wondering, around how much current to push the 219B to give a purplish bluish tint?
How about a full-charged 40T? Will it also give the PL47 219B purplish bluish tint?
I got my pl47 nichia 219b yesterday. Using 30T at 3.5v or Sanyo ga with adapter, the turbo works fine.
Using a fully charged 30T, turbo will overdrive the led, giving a purplish bluish tint.
So stick to toykeeper’s advice. Recommended cells only.
Same here last night with my Samsung INR21700-50E fully charged, be careful with nichia 219b turbo mode.