Replacement Driver for LED Ceiling Light

I have a Hampton Bay LED ceiling light that I put in my work space several years ago. Once LED has lit up your world, you can’t go back. About a week ago the light up and died. I purchased the light back when I was making great $ but now I’m on an extreme budget so I thought I would replace the driver @ $20-$30 instead of replacing the whole unit at $150.00+. The more I look at the array of drivers out there, the more complicated it gets because it seems no one has an exact match, not even Hampton Bay.

This is the driver label
https://www.manualshelf.com/manual/hampton-bay/dc032led/instructions-assembly-french/page-9.html

The unit claims 43 Watt under the output in its store ad with a Maximum power 39.2 W on the driver label. My wattage choices on the various drivers that I’ve found online are all over the scope but none with an exact match. So the question I’m asking is what would be the effect of going with different wattage drivers and could going higher result in heat danger? I have never dealt with LED drivers so I don’t know watt to do……

Looks like maximum power draw off the mains is 43W but to the LEDs only goes 39W.

If you can find one that does at least 40W to the LEDs, it should be safe.

Looks like it needs to take a 0V-10V for the dimming function (if used), too.

Thanks LightBringer, If I go up a few extra watts would I have any heat issues with the driver? I see lots of drivers in the 42-45 Watt range…

As far as the dimmer, I had a standard 2 wire slide dimmer and I’m thinking about going back to a simple two way light switch because I really don’t use the dimming much and after looking at the manual it looks to me like this light is more designed for the 4 wire dimmer and I really don’t want to run the wires. I’m speculating that the short life of the unit was due to my old fashioned two wire slide dimmer, the light has flickered occasionally ever since I put it in…

Nah, that’s maximum, like a 300hp engine where you only use 10hp cruising down the highway.

Thanks again… I will find one at 40 watts…

The requirements you mostly need to meet are “constant current driver 700 mA” and “dimmable” with an output very close to the maximum listed for the original. You can buy them on eBay for well under $20. Here’s one for $12 and with 38W - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magtech-M38-U54-0700-XP-38w-700ma-constant-current-LED-driver-dimmable-freeship/253938710629?hash=item3b1fed3865:g:uQIAAOSw8fJbn8uj:rk:2:pf:0

39W for LEDs is a lot of light for a fan. Are you sure they didn’t build in a bit of slop for the driver? The electronics are the obvious weak point in LED lighting since the LEDs themselves are rated for 50,000 hours if driven at the right voltage.

Thanks Vegas LED Fan

I ordered this one from Amazon last night… https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT2ZV18/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope it will work okay…

What do you think? 3.3 Amps…

It is probably not the right one for your use. There are two types of drivers that I come across in fixtures. One is “constant voltage” and the other is “constant current”. The one you list for Amazon is 12V DC constant voltage. It means that the output is always 12V no matter how many LEDs you connect to it up to the maximum rated watts for the converter. The type I listed on eBay is 700mA constant current up to the maximum rated watts. They are not interchangeable. BTW, the eBay listing is with free shipping so it is less expensive than the one on Amazon. The one in your fan is definitely 700mA constant current.

It looks as though the specifications in the manual for the Hampton driver omits a dash between the numbers for the voltage. It reads “Voltage Range 2856 Vdc”. That should be 28-56. The one I recommended is 700mA 37-54Vdc. It will definitely work but may not dim quite as low as the original. It will not damage the LEDs.

Thanks Vegas LED Fan, I cancelled the Amazon order and yes I feel more comfortable with the 37-54VDC after reading this…
https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog/choose-right-power-supply-led-strip-lighting/2186/
The dimming isn’t an issue, I seem to only use the max light anyway…

This is the light I’m referring to…

@WattsNext.
The driver you bought on Amazon will not work with your light. Like Vegas LED Fan said. You need a Constant Current driver. This kind of driver adjust the Voltage by itself (the original one between 28-56V) untill the Current (in this case 700mA) is reached.
The one you bought on Amazon A Constant Voltage driver. It always has 12V output (which in your case is not even enough to light up the leds.
The one Vegas LED Fan linked has a Voltage range of 37-54V with a constant Current of 700mA. So it could be possible that you are not able to dimm the led down as far as the original. The 2V less output are usually not a problem! At maximum it should be as bright as the original one. If you do not want to use the dimming funktion the driver will work perfectly fine. If you want to use dimming and if you also want to have the same range (min brightness- max brightness) of the original driver you maybe have to search for a different one.

Thanks TheOnlyDocc, I ordered the driver off ebay. I appreciate the definition and clarity that I’ve received here.

And mount the driver in a metal box or otherwise well away from anything flammable.
Just, you know, in case.

can some help locate a replacement for my ceiling light led driver . its round and has this letters C D L class 2 power supply model xps560fm14y input:ac 120v 60hz 24w output dc33v 650mA made by c RU us e353929

Just goggled “33v 650ma led supply” and you might be able to get something similar from Fullham.

it has to be round see link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-driver-light-transformer-power-supply-adapter-for-led-lamp-bulb-Round-shelEC/362744860489?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=631904707274&\_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

that i m looking for but with the described above input and output

It is rare to see round LED drivers unless they come with the light. It is a matter of finding a driver that will fit the space inside the housing even if it is rectangular. What you really need is a constant current driver and one that is rated for 24 watts. I see them in 20W and 30W versions but nothing in between. Use the 30W driver.

Those little letters at the end of the description (CE RU us) are for rating agencies that are the Chinese equivalent of Underwriter Laboratories. When you see UL on an American light it signifies it has been tested for safety and accepted by Underwriter Laboratories. The Chinese version is the backwards RU. FCC means it will not interfere with TV and radio. CE stands for China Export and allows the product to be sold in the European Union. They are not the name of the manufacturer.

It might be simpler to just buy a complete retrofit kit for the light as long as it is not one that is on a dimming circuit. The lights that are rated for universal world voltage AC 110-220 can not be used on a dimmer circuit. You can find them on eBay. The one shown below is 24W and the price with shipping is $11.02 That’s not much more than you would pay for the driver alone.

eBay description: “Round led module 12w18w24w36w40w replace ceiling lamp retrofit Light 110V-220V”
24W:
Input voltage : AC 110-220V
SMD LED Chip source quantity : 48 leds
*Diameter : 170MM
Suit chassis Dia : 230mm*
Lumen : 2600LM
CRI>80Ra

thanks , let me understand what you refer. do you mean that i should unscrew all the circle led boards from the fixture chassis and just screw on this ebay led plate that include driver and leds 48 of them??? but the diameter total is 170 mm = 6.6 inches and my fixture is 13” diameter. so you recommend it anyway

OK, i got it you are right thanks a million

Yes, remove the existing LED parts and use the new ones in their place. The new parts have strong magnets attached to the back of the plate so you just stick it in place and connect the wires.

I used a couple of these to replace the incandescent bulbs in ceiling lights. You can get them in various light levels. Some of the newer lamps with SMD 5630 LEDs may be brighter than the older lights that used smaller SMD 3528 LEDs. An alternative design is called “annular ceiling light” and may be closer to the design you already have. Just be sure to choose one that uses 110V.

Just enter “annular LED ceiling light” in the eBay search box and use the “price + shipping lowest” in the sort box