Here's the Convoy L2 with 1mm White Flat hitting a white Van at 480m.
I haven’t even owned extra flux for decades, although I soldered thousands of my self developed boards “professionally” in the first years of my business live, back in the 80s. There is plenty of flux in the middle of the solder wire, I just had to learn the proper technique. Not much different with unleaded solder nowadays.
Time for a quick one before I put the dinner on and the beers start to take effect... :-)
Added some 3K carbon fibre tube to the CRX SR4-Cu and an o-ring & CF stop to the end of the battery tube.
This covering gives a little buffer before cooking the hands with the light on full tilt :D
CRX SR4-Cu-CF
Copper, brass, carbon fibre & titanium construction
Quad Nichia 219C 5000K emitters
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
20mm x 7mm solid copper heatsink
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Green GITD glow bezel
Emisar D4v2 ramping driver
Copper, tritium & glass electronic tail switch
Lockout-able
Magnetic cell contacts
56, 2mm x 2mm magnets in tail
18650 cell compatible
Max 3400lm
Length – 97mm
Width – 27mm
Weight – 241g (with 18650 cell)
Nice addition, and good luck with the cooking. (I’m off-duty, we are going out for dinner this year in an hours time 
).
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas 
Main reason for it is that I damaged the inside of the head a bit.
But I didn’t want to wait till Thursday I looked around in my workplace what I could use, then I remembered I have a Dremel tool. :person_facepalming:
So I used the Dremel with a small drum sander the enlarge the inside of the head and removed the damage. Also sanded the board a bit smaller with a nice bevel on the underside so it will sit flush.
And, after replacing the springs for those beautiful springs from Blue, the light is assembled and is working. :partying_face:
Used the small spring on the driver and the big one on the switch. Have to say that the springs are a but large, you’d need to use some force to put the tailcap on.
Always nice to save a light!
Fijne kerst, thijsco!
What is the purpose of that rim that forces u to sand mcpcb? Ive assembled 3 or 4 of these and never considered it.
Yes it is!
With the LH351D’s there is a slight hint of green in the beam (as reported by many others), compared to the XP-G2’s 5500K that where in there before (RIP! 
)
I don’t find it to be that bad, probably not noticeable in real life use.
Fijne kerst Djozz!
Extra flux really helps my rework, though more recently I’ve found that adding a bunch of fresh solder (and the embedded flux) works well too, and with the added bonus that it can heat multiple legs at once on chips like the 7135.
Same story in my case but it started just a year ago. My first mod was replacing a ref in S2+ with a shaking hands. A few months ago started soldering and that gave me the ability to assembly a flashlight from components which is great. I learn how the things work but there is still a lot to get know. I appreciate this forum a lot 
thanks guys!
Changed the Driver of my eagle eye X7 with Luxeon MZ 90CRI from original with resistor mod to Biatro Driver from Lexel.
Got 1800 Lumen instead of 1200.
and with bypassed switch and spring I got 2200Lumen.
And with fresh charged blue Liitokala batteries I got 2500 Lumen!
With Schockli (PLB55) only 2300 Lumen.
Dang a year in and you’re already soldering QFN16 packages? It took me years before I was willing to try QFN parts and even to this day I still have a relatively high failure rate on the first reflow (probably 50% need a second reflow). What’s the pitch on that part?
Build a Manta Ray C8.2
- CSLPM1 (White Flat)
- 22mm AMC-based driver with slave board. 26 * AMC7135 for around 9,1A
- Bypassed springs
- soldered a copper foil between led and terminal-pad of mcpcb for a better focus
- sanded down a centering piece and opened it a bit. Before opening it is getting lose due tu the centering piece and had bad contact to the mcpcb, so the led turned a bit blue.
- addad a second O-Ring (one on each side of the glas) to keep the reflector down due tu the sanded centering piece.
Did some tint mixing with newly arrived Luxeon V2 5000K from DigiKey. I’m running out of lights with bad LED’s to swap but I picked my 1st batch D4. I also flashed the latest Anduril on it since I had it apart.
Before:
-
D4 VTC5D Nichia 5K 80CRI
3,650 lm
After:
-
D4 VTC5D L1V2 4K+5K
4,207 lm @ ~19.xx amps -
D4 VTC6 L1V2 4K+5K
4,180 lm
Luxeon V2 4000K+5000K+dirty TIR
The hot spot is much more defined and throwy. The star pattern thanks to the non-rotated 1st gen MCPCB is even more obvious now. The tint in the hot spot is pretty good, not at all green like the 80CRI Nichia 5K. There is a bit of a pinkish/purple tint in the spill though. I think it’s partly due to smooth narrow optic and partly due to what I assume is both of these LEDs being below the BBL and now that they are mixed they are even lower.
Petzl NAO 2 with Samsung LH351C 5000K CRI 90+ from Arrow 0,25$ action… 
Low
High
CRI-2
Another Maratac CR123 Rev3 triple Nichia 219B 9080 with lighted tail clicky.
Triple Nichia 219B 4500k R9080 emitters
18mm LD4 DTP triple MCPCB
10511 Carclo optic
ARC glass
Green GITD glow disc
L4P LD-A4 3A driver
Copper heatsink
Copper lined aluminium pill
Copper switch enclosure
Copper contacts
Reverse clicky warm white lighted tail switch
Lockout-able
Max - 630lm (3A)
Length – 70mm
Width – 22mm
Weight – 101g (with 16340 cell)
I tried a Luxeon MZ (90CRI, 5700K)in a (desert tan) Convoy C8 today. The build was straightforward, I used the stock XP-type board and a Convoy OP reflector. Just the centerpiece was a bit of a challenge: because the led is slightly rectangular and should be off-center a bit, a simple round hole does not work. I made some cutouts in a butterfly-type XM centerpiece, that worked. A bit off-center would perhaps even help getting rid of a donut hole.
The result is not what I hoped for. The output is good, over 1400 lumen and I can get more out of the led if I use a better cell (used a PF for a start). But the beam has a too pronounced donut hole despite the OP reflector. Much more diffusing is needed than that. On top of that the tint is not as good as maukka’s tests made me expect. The bare led at 0 degrees measures 91.3 CRI with a R9 of 69, tint on top of the BBL (maukka measured 95 CRI and R9=89), and the hotspot measured just 88 CRI with R9=46 (changing the AR-coated lens to uncoated did not changed that significantly).
The result now is that I do not feel like finding the ideal diffusing method (changing focus of the led and/or frosting the lens) for this light, but just think of a next nice led to put in that has not a quad die.
I was just about to spray the inside of a SMO Eagle Eye X6 lens i’m using a Luxeon MZ inside but now you have me second guessing doing it. Right now I just have a piece of diffusion film under the lens.