I haven't looked carefully at the ROT66 but so many of these lights have very tight tolerances on the switch wiring pads. So it may look good from a visual inspection, may even work fine at the factory, then after shipping, ever so slight shifting may cause a short. Or again, some contaminating agent after time gets more conductive.. So many things can happen.
There's been issues with e-switches, but just by design really, really prefer them. Over time, mech switches are prone to more likely failures, plus a lot of amps going thru thin metal and small contact points internally in the switch is not a good thing - e-switches don't have high power. The only somewhat superior mech switch is FET based, so high amps is not going through the actual switch, but these are more pricey, probably bigger, and I just don't see these offered as replacements anywhere.
Random Dan, that definitely sounds like a problem with the e-switch. It sounds like it’s shorted to make it think it’s always being pressed. It could probably be opened up and fixed, if it’s not glued, but that’ll definitely require some soldering.
Is there a way to turn off the blue aux LEDs? It doesn’t look like it’s covered in the basic UI diagram but I understand there are lots of ‘varsity’ features buried in there. Thanks!
I noticed the ROT66 is no longer available in 219B. Is it officially discontinued? If so, it looks like the E07 is the final 219B light from Fireflies.
Any tips on accessing the potentiometer for the aux LEDs? Do I unscrew the bezel or does the board come out the back? I tried to unscrew the bezel and it was TIGHT, didn’t get anywhere (including using a strap wrench). I ordered the unglued version so I was anticipating that it would be easier to take off. Thanks in advance.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it's simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
I don’t get why anyone buys a ROT66, PL47, E07, D4S, if not for the AUX LEDs and lit switches. Are there not better choices if you are anti-glow anything?
Because the original ROT66 219b didn’t come with aux leds. Bought it to use as a flashlight, not a conversation piece. And a wonderful flashlight it is.
I know they didn’t for a brief, initial minute, but they all do now. I find a good deal of practicality in them as well, it’s good they can be turned off for you people that do not.
It's the bling factor... No literally it blings... What else would you call it?
My PL47 aux leds don't seem so bright in room light, but in the dark, it's a significant glow - last night seemed a little too bright for the nightstand pointing towards me.
I just received my xpl hi ROT66 and I have noticed that when I put it on Turbo there is flickering it also doesn’t seem as bright as I thought it would be. I do not have it in muggle mode since I learned about that with my PL47. Has anyone had this happen to their Light and if so is there anything I can do to fix it? That means am I doing something wrong or is there a fix? All help is appreciated.
