Budget friendly adjustable bench Power supplies perfect for testing LED's and other uses!

I don’t know if this might be something that would help but I thought I would post it as maybe a option for some.
The old Xbox 360 power supply (brick) that can be purchased used for a few bucks on ebay might make a good low voltage power supply.
The 203 watt model will do 12v at 16.5amps on the output. I use one to power my Icharger, its worked great for several years now.
You have to do a little rewiring buts it’s very simple. Lots of info on google. Xbox made different power models so be sure and check to get the one you need.

This is just a reference to what your looking for, you might even find one cheaper or scavenge one from around the house. :smiley:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-XBOX-360-203W-Power-Supply-BRICK-ONLY-Tested-Clean-Con-Fast-Shipping/223241682370?

But both are current limited regardless of voltage, that is what I’m telling you.
It just happens DSP5020 has higher limit than cheap one you were looking at.

DPS5020 will give 1000W at 50V 20A and 100W at 5V 20A. It cant go above 20A. It’s the same thing as cheap supply.

I am not sure what you mean by convert it?

Using a bench power supply to power another bench power supply is not a great idea. You are over-complicating it and it will cost more for no benefits.

Better to use a cheap power supply like this 24v/10A model: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-12V-24V-48V-Power-Supply-Driver-AC110-220V-TO-DC-Switch-adapter-For-LED-Strip/372130850519?hash=item56a4ba26d7:m:mC4Xfig00JRLboPrqg48VKQ:rk:2:pf:0

To power a DPS unit of your choice. Then just build a case for it out of wood if all else fails. I just have my DPS unit in a small little acrylic case on my desk and the power supply under the desk. I actually have a prototype acrylic case left over here, it cracked when I was putting it together but could still be made to work if you don’t mind the aesthetics.

This should handle almost any flashlight task you want, I rarely exceed these specs even in my extreme builds, and in those cases I exceed my existing setup by a lot.

To be blunt, I don’t like the looks of any of the homemade enclosures in this thread, including the blue store bought one. I also don’t want a wood case. I want a proper case in the basic shape of narrow and long to take up less space on a bench. Like in the link I posted. Aesthetics are critical to me.

Buying a bench power supply and converting it will cost maybe $80 plus $50 for the DPS5020. $130 total.

Buying an empty case and seperate power supply will be $130 and $50 plus $50 for the DPS5020. $230 total

So it actually costs Less.

Here is the conversion process from a few posts above.

Since it might cost me $230 to build it up custom, maybe I should just look for a bench supply that can already do 20A?

Can’t you just buy the one RDTech sells?

It’s quite small, but it is a very nice aluminium case:

Another thing I actually do to get the output voltage up is putting in series laptop power supplies.

By doing so, I’m able to use a 39V power supply for tasks that I need to do with higher voltage, and just use one for lower voltage uses.

Be wary to use similarly specced power supplies. I “dumpster dove” and found 2 laptop power supplies that were working very well.

No, I have to have one assembly with everything inside.

Since this is all about cosmetics you will just have to spend the money for the look you want it sounds like.

For the prices you are looking at spending you might be able to find a pre-made unit with 10-15A of current. You can search ebay for used units for example although more then 10A is hard to find.

Using a bench power supply to power another bench power supply is not a very good idea as the ripple and voltage spikes of each unit could easily interfere and cause issues ranging from small to major. It is simply a recipe for problems unless you get quality units, in which case you are ruining a good power supply to DIY it.

For reference my entire setup costs around $50-$60 for 15A of current IIRC.

After a lot of looking, I found a pretty decent metal case for only $34 shipped from the USA. It’s a bit larger than I need, but no big deal. It will fit a 240 x 125 x 65 48V 10A psu no problem. Maybe I’ll give it nice coat of off-white paint.

Now to hunt up some nice front and rear connectors for power and leads, etc…

Do you think I can use these to test for over discharge protection in lights (reduce voltage and see when it shuts off)? I use one in the lab but should get one at home too.

Yes, it can be used for this, although the relatively high ripple voltage on the higher current models can cause some false readings for things like LVP. My older/lower powered DP3005 has lower ripple and works better for this kind of thing if I have issues with the DPS5015.

How is the fan noise?
Maybe it needs a temp controlled fan swapped in?

I bought the DPS5020 some time ago. Because the case i want to use is out of stock at the moment i am using a old Car battery charger case. For the input i first used a car battery. Now i use a 60v 480W PSU. I also ordered a few extra parts. But i am waiting for BG to get the case back in stock (https://eu.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-250x190x110mm-Blue-Metal-Electronic-Enclosures-DIY-Power-Junction-Box-wp-Eu-1067251.html?rmmds=category#).
With all the little extras i have planed there will be not much space left inside. But if i count evrything together i have spend ~120-130€.
But i have a Bench PSU with a lot of output if i need it. And if i check the available Bench PSU that i can buy for this amount of money i get maybe half the output with less options.
When everything is ready I can switch from the internal PSU to external input (when i am on the way and only have a battery for power). I added a second display for input Voltage /current and Power. I know that i can see the input voltage on the DPS5020 but i find it more convenient to see total power draw. . . on a second display. Also i can see input voltage on the second display before i use a switch to power on the DPS5020. So i can be sure not to have to much input voltage (the second display can measure DC voltage up to 100V). A few switches, terminals for the output and a bigger fan will also be added. And with the option to connect the PSU to my PC i have everything i need. But i really would like to see the logging funktion in the PC software.
Would be a really nice feature to have when testing LEDs. But i think this is somerhing many people have mentioned before.

That would be cool to see.

Here is how I made case for my DPH5005. It’s just generic project case.


I use old PC power supply to power it.
There is 12V, 5V and 3.3V output in front with voltmeter and ammeter and also it’s possible to power DPH5005 form rear 5.5x2.5 or banana socket.
I just have to label it.

Sorry for bad pictures but I’m having some construction works right now and it’s chaos here…

I will add pictures when i get the Case and when i installed everything.
Here a small list of my parts :

- RIDEN® DPS5020 Konstantspannungsstrom Abwärtskommunikation Digital Power S. Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/with-5A-fuse-Red-Rocker-Switch-Fused-IEC-320-C14-Inlet-Power-Socket-Fuse-Switch-Connector/32912388753.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dQiFuOb (i will use a propper fuse)

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1xBlack-6-Pin-Toggle-DPDT-ON-OFF-ON-Switch-15A-250V-Mini-Switches-E-TEN1322-VE066/32816047985.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dQiFuOb (switch to toggle between internal PSU and external input)

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-PCS-New-4-PIN-Toggle-Switch-ON-OFF-Two-Position-Switch-15A-250V-VE147-P/32813828748.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dQiFuOb (switch to turn on the DPS5020)

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Pcs-4mm-Banana-Plugs-Female-Jack-Socket-Plug-Wire-Connector-5-Colors-Each-1pcs-Multimeter/32877193323.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dvJDHd9 (terminals for input /output)

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M4X36-pure-copper-terminal-4mm-banana-Jack-Socket-20A-binding-post-Banana-plug-connector/32876335955.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dvJDHd9 (terminals for input /output)

- Excellway® 20A Digitales Multifunktions-DC-Leistungsmessgerät, Energieüberwachungsmodul, Voltmeter, Amperemeter Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice (It will be placed between internal PSU /external input and the DPS5020)

- AC 110/220 V bis DC 0–60 V 8 A 480 W, einstellbarer, geregelter Schalter, Netzteil, Treibertransformator, mit LCD Display für LED Streifen Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice (internal PSU)

- https://eu.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-250x190x110mm-Blue-Metal-Electronic-Enclosures-DIY-Power-Junction-Box-wp-Eu-1067251.html?rmmds=category# (still waiting for the case)

  • Fan and a few small things were from my stash of parts.

I don’t think I have actually ever heard in run yet. Both fans are Temp controlled.
One is being controlled from the DPS5015, the other (case fan) is being controlled by the power supply. The fan was already in the power supply case.
I simply removed the power supply case leaving the bottom that the board is mounted to and mounted the power supply in the blue enclosure using stand offs.
This is the 1000 watt 60v 17a model, it’s almost as big as the enclosure. Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
Took a piece of aluminum sheet that came off the power supply case and cut it to fit the DPS5015 board. Bent a 90 degree bend in the edge of the aluminum sheet for the DPS and screwed that to a big aluminum heat sink in the back of the power supply spanning the DPS over top of the power supply. Quite a bit of work but this size power supply in this case the room is limited and I tried to make the most of what I had.

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I purchased a 1/8” aluminum sheet from ebay and cut to size and drilled my holes.
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I didn’t really like the thin front panel it had and I ended up using the front panel to mount the fan on the left side where the air slot holes were. I drilled some new air holes for the fan and mounted it. I didn’t want to have to fight with the fan ever time I decide to take the case off so I cut the case top and made it removable without having to mess with the fan. Just loosen four screws and its off.
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I got a few more upgrades to do once the parts get here. I want to be able to measure the actual voltage at the load instead of using a DMM.
Waiting on a DVM to install in the enclosure and a fused switch. Doesn’t look like a professional lab power supply but it works great. :smiley:

I’m trying to think of a reason to get a 1000W psu, but I’m coming up empty.

A 480W (60v x 8A) seems adequate for me (testing LEDs like the xhp70.2 and automotive stuff). It should give the full 20A up to about 20v and still go up to 50v at lesser amps if I need it to.

What are you guys using the bigger wattage psu for?

DPS5020

Am I reading this right if you connect input with PSU, but if a load is attached it will simply burn?

I have no idea what your refering to. Can you please explain?

BG description

If you connect the supply power with output, the module will be burnt.