You also have an Anduril version?
Like TK said, you might have one that is not controlled by the mcu. I’m guessing some were wired to the MCU and some where not.
It should not flicker. On turbo it should be full power. Does it flicker on slightly less than full power or only on turbo?
What batteries do you have in it? Are they unprotected?
Make sure the carrier screws are tight.
Using flat top 30q from fireflies and yes when I ramp up to the max lower mode it flickers a little then too
Hmmm, sounds tricky. It could be a fault in the driver, but I would check all the usual things first. Loosen and retightened the driver retaining ring - if possible. (Is it glued?) Clean the battery tube ends and where it contacts the retaining ring. Clean the spring contacts. Try flipping the battery tube around. Tighten the battery tube first, then tighten the rear cap 2nd. Clean your carrier springs and contacts. Make sure your carrier screws are snug and not loose.
I think that’s about all the average person can do. If it still flickers the problem might with the driver.
Thanks JasonWW. Followed your advice still a little flickering on top ramp level and turbo. I am going to swap out batteries and try that when I get home from work. Doing my own crude light comparison my XPL Hi cool version does not appear as bright as my Sofirn Q8 although the ROT66 is rated at twice the lumen output.
Rot66 xpl hi measured 7050 lumen with my Texas ace lumen tube. ( using Sony vtc5a).
If you are not getting 6500-7000 , then something is wrong with your light…
I would clean the carrier, and all the connection just to make sure…
I found the screws were a bit loose in my ROT66 carrier, and the driver retaining ring was a bit loose as well. The way the carrier works is tightening down the end cap forces the ground ring on the carrier to make contact to the driver retaining ring, so the driver spring must compress a fair amount. Not sure how much you can do, but you can do a one cell test without the carrier using just one cell and a decent wires. Take off the battery tube, press down on the cell on the driver spring, then hold the wire to the neg. end of the cell to the driver retaining ring, and if you got good contact, see if you still have the problem.
Thank you for the help Newlumen and Tom E. I will follow your recommendations once I am home from work. I still love the look and feel of the ROT66 and my PL47 and when the E07 arrives next week sometime I am sure I will love that one too. Like the Emisar lights, these lights are unique and great looking lights. They also do amazing things in such compact designs.
so I recieved my ROT66 SST20 6500K, everything is perfect, the packaging, the driver, the UI and the leds, however I noticed mine has 2 problems.
01. the screws in the battery carrier keep getting lose on its own when screwing off and on the tail cap! (I permanently fixed this problem by applying super glue to all the screws and poles)
02. When screwing the tail cap on or off, the battery carrier will rub on the driver ring causing metal dust to come out, I tried fixing this problem by sanding down smooth on both the driver ring and the battery carrier but once i tighten or losen the tail cap the driver ring and carrier scratch and metal dust comes out all over again.
Does anyone else have this experience?
I had issues with my ROT66 and some of my fellow BLF members were quick to offer assistance . Unfortunately there is an issue with the driver itself. That being said Jack from Fireflies quickly has handled the issue and that kind of customer service is rare nowadays especially considering how busy he must be getting all the orders out. Thanks Jack. Can’t wait to see what your company comes out with next ,Great Job.
Nothing is wrong with my driver, works flawlessly, only problem i have is carrier and driver ring scratching together with metal dust coming out
so someone slipped off during assembly and you got a deep scratch in it and now the carrier bites into it?
sounds like a job for some sand paper
I don’t think there was any mention of a scratch.
Post 836, he already tried sanding it smooth.
Maybe some dielectric grease would prevent grinding?
After sanding both driver ring and carrier, I rub my fingers on the surfaces and its as smooth as a baby’s bottom, then just after a couple screwing off and on the tail cap, the surfaces on both driver ring and carrier is rough again, i don’t understand why…
something is biting in somewhere for sure, I just don’t know how, how can smooth rubbing on smooth cause grinding? i dont know how but it does…
Is it possible one of the screws on the battery carrier is sticking up a tiny bit above the aluminum plate that makes up the top of the carrier?
If so, I think the best thing to do would be remove the problem screw, make sure there are no burrs under it, and if necessary, carefully drill or sand the countersink for the screw a little deeper. If you have trouble removing the screw after having glued it, acetone weakens superglue, but you might want to be careful about getting acetone anywhere but on the top, because I don’t know how it might affect the PCB on the reverse side of that aluminum plate.
The only other thought I had was try putting something low friction, like a couple sheets of waxed paper, between the tailcap and the battery carrier, to reduce the tendency of screwing on the tailcap to make the battery carrier rotate.
i’ve already checked all my screws and all of them are under the surface so none of the screws are touching the driver ring, the waxed paper might work but there’s already a layer of black foam there
I recently received my first interesting flashlight, the ROT66 Nichia. I’m confused about its behavior in turbo mode and how thermal control works in Anduril.
With fully charged Samsung 30Q cells, the ROT66 steps down from turbo mode after about 10 seconds. I notice that if I double-click after it steps down, it will go back up to turbo, but then of course will step down quickly after. It never gets what I would call hot.
I then used the thermal configuration mode to calibrate the temperature sensor (using an infrared thermometer) and to set the thermal limit to 65 degrees celsius. To my surprise, turbo from a cold start still steps down just as quickly as before, and the flashlight still isn’t very hot. But this time, if I keep double-clicking to bring it back up to turbo mode and do this many times, I get about 10 seconds of turbo each time, and the flashlight eventually gets really hot. I entered temp-check mode, and the light’s readout was 85 degrees celsius!
So, two questions:
- Why does it step down so fast, well before it reaches the configured limit of 65 degrees? A driver problem?
- Why does Anduril allow the temperature as measured by the light to reach 20 degrees beyond the configured limit? This seems like pure software control.
I don’t have an answer for you, but I will say that when it comes to setting temperatures in general, you should make sure the light is cooled down internally. Don’t assume the light is a certain temp based on the exterior. Inside it might be much warmer. People are always forgetting this.
When using NarsilM I will let a light sit for at least a few hours to fully get back to room temp before I try to set a thermal limit.
Obviously, the setup procedure is different for Anduril than for NarsilM. I would verify that your lights temp sensor reads correctly first. Let it sit overnight or at least a few hours. If it’s accurate, then try setting it to 65°C or whatever you choose. Just keep in mind that the temp sensor is built into the driver. So what it measures isn’t exactly the same as the exterior.