Jon, there is a successful mod of the S1 mini.
Have you seen it?
Also a few Flickr fotos are missing on the first page. They changed the free accounts. Can you read them?
I searched for a lee filter book (I need two)
And found this “decent” offer
is this a bigger size?
24,5cm x 13,5cm x 6,5 cm
wow, thats an awesome mod, no had not seen it, thanks!
Flickr changed their rules (no suprise)
I had to delete photos in excess of 1000, or pay for an account
I chose to delete the excess, and got a new account… at imgur
if there is an image you need, googling the text in the post can find it with google image views (they store their own copies)
let me know if you need help finding something
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I dont know the answer to your question, this is the Lee Filters I have bought
https://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm
but, Lee Filters are mostly just a novelty item for me, I dont take them too seriously, since on brighter lights, they deform… if I was serious, I would use their Zircon line that is heat resistant:
The 802 Zircon Minus Green reduces lumens by 25, that would be closest to the 1/2 minus Green, that reduces by 28
Lee 248 Half minus green: 71.5%
Zircon 802: 75%
Zircon 803: 79.9% (this is the filter I like for 219c LEDs)
Lee 249 -Quarter minus green : 81.5%
Zircon 804: 83.6%
Zircon 805: 86.6%
Lee 279 -Eighth minus green : 87.2%
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I dont like N219c because the tint is above the BBL, imo Lee filters help there, but they lower the brightness as much as a swap to N219b…
Im starting to hear, and see some nice photos, of other options, like the 5000k samsung in the S1 Mini mod you linked…
pics are links to maukkas measurements
That LH351D is a huge improvement in R9 CRI (Red Bar)
“
”:Samsung LH351D color testing
compared to the stock Low CRI XM-L in the S1 Mini Cool White:
the LH351D also has higher R9 CRI than the stock XP-G3 LED in the S1 Mini High CRI:
that XP-G3 LED has very green tint, and the R9 values are similar to a Zebra High CRI
for reference here is an N219b 4000k 9050
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here is another LED I have not tried yet, the SST-20… it looks pretty good
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what lights and LEDs are you thinking of using the Lee Filters for?
I have a LH351D (4000K) in my Utorch S1 mini.
Works very well.
Vf is not as low as Nichia. (but not as high as XP-L either)
I also have a TIR optic in it, but the beam turned out a little narrower than i hoped.
Only one light, for the Olight S1 mini Baton HCRI.
Mine has a green corona, without it could be a perfect light.
Emisar offers his lights D4 and D4S with a 95CRI SST20 in 3000K and 4000K and if you ask you can get 2x3000K and 2x4000K in one light.
How did you get the lamp apart?
My Olight S1 Mini HCRI also has green corona… I dreamed about an N219b 4500k 9080, but instead gave the light to one of my kids, and got the LED put into an RRT-01 that Im in love with now. That LED makes any flashlight better…
fwiw, the Utorch S1 Mini bezel unscrews, its much easier than the Olight S1 Mini. And I LOVE my Utorch S1 Mini Aspheric beam, with an N219b 4500k 9080 mod.
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I look forward to you getting an LED you like, into your Olight S1 Mini HCRI.
Jon, I doubt you will like the lh351d. For me I hate it as much as the 219c or even more. It is very greenish when compared to Cree A And D tint or E21A amd 219b 9080. You want an emitter with negative DUV. The Lh351D is positive duv.
TA is testing something very special which should look as good or better than the 219b 9080 but with better efficiency. We should have more options soon.
Thank You!
> You want an emitter with negative DUV
I had not learned to interpret below bbl via negative DUV… super helpful that you helped make me aware of that spec… until now I found it beyond my comprehension…
Positive DUV means above the BBL. negative DUV means below the BBL. That’s one of the most important parameter I look for in Maukka’s test reports.
I’ve seen pictures with the driver pill taken out, but i didn’t do that.
(i don’t know how to)
I only unscrewed the bezel, desoldered the 3 wires, removed the LED board and reflowed a LH351D onto it.
Then i shaved the LH351D (giving it a slightly warmer tint and towards under the BBL).
I put the LED board back with some polymer paste, centred the LED with the centring gaskets and put a weight on top to squish the paste to a very thin layer and let it cure for a day.
Then i re-soldered the wires (i replaced the little screw for the minus because it was quite loose in there, causing a bad electrical path).
I also put some UV curing glue (Kafuter) on the shaved surface, because it was not a smooth shave (at all…)
Cleaned / polished that afterwards.
So then i had the LED ready and positioned, and then i found a suitable TIR optic.
A 17mm one, which i glued in the bezel from the front (not from the back) with Kafuter.
Had to make it fit first by filing down the outer rim a little.
Kafuter (or similar) is great stuff.
It creeps between the parts you want to glue and bonds really well to metals.
I’m gonna do the same with my Klarus Mi1C, but it has much less room for the TIR.
Even after flattening the TIR front (removing the pebbled surface and leaving only a thin outer rim it is actually too deep and wants to stick out the front for proper focussing or sit too deep over the LED for bad focussing…
I’ll have to make the LED board thinner and use a dedomed LED to get the light source as deep as possible (optically speaking).
It’s a challenge…
But i dislike the stock optics (PMMA aspheric lens).
awesome!
I see that the DUV goes from negative to positive when comparing a bare LED to a reflector… aargh… everything is everything
look here
bare sst-20 emitter has negative Duv
in a reflector the Duv is Positive
Yea that is very common. I have a very very rosy 5D tint XHP70.2 80CRI but once I put the reflector on, it is a yellowish mess because the duv shot far up above the BBL. Same for the LH351D. Bare LED it is just a bit above the BBL and is almost tolerable but once you put TIR over it, it is horror film green light.
For this reason, we should always get as rosy emitter as possible so hopefully it remains at or below the BBL under reflectors or optics.
great info
I wonder if the issue is related to flip chip design, which increases total lumens because it emits light out the side of the LED, that is not the same tint as the light emitted out the front of the LED. I believe the XP-G3 and N219c have these tint issues, and I think they are flip chip designs.
I dont think the N219b is a flip chip design… It does not seem to have the above BBL tint issues, and tint variation across the beam, of the others mentioned. I think the E21A is also consistent in tint across the beam and works well without needing a diffusing optic.
@SKV89:
Well, i have a domed LH351D (from led4power) in a smooth 40mm reflector, and i don’t find it green at all.
Yes, compared to rosie Nichias they look more green, of course.
But that’s not a good reference.
But, i also used a ‘corona killer’ in there (in this case a centring gasket with very high rim, shrouding the LED), so that the positive DUV light form the sides doesn’t hit the reflector but is mixed with the negative DUV light of the spill.
Jerommel, do you have a link to the optics you used?
@Jerommel, thanks for the elaborated answer!
What kind of kafuter UV glue have you?
K300 is the kind I have.
There are different kinds
- k300 for Glass to Glass
- k302 for Glass to Metal
- k303 for Glass to plastics/acrylics
- k305 = Non transparent, impact resistant glue
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-XML-lens-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-17mm-Bead-surface-60-degrees-5050-lenses-High/32630479277.html
Various angles available.
Good TIRs.
Skilhunt uses these in their angle lights.
Made to snugly fit over 5050 LEDs, but you can use them for smaller LEDs too, of course, but you may have to centre it otherwise.
It’s all Chinese on the bottle, so i don’t know.
Bought it from Fasttech at the time.
I think it’s glass to glass, but it sticks quite well to other materials too.
Not too well on plastics though, but in the case of a TIR on stainless steel, the TIR sits in there very sturdy.
Probably because it flows a little around the edges.
Thnx!