(Cancelled)D1S+, CSLNM1.TG LED, 850lm, 320kcd

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zak.wilson
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I do believe I saw someone custom ordered a D1S with an SST-20, but I don’t think it has been delivered yet.

My Astrolux SS with SST-20 pulls 5.2A through my ammeter with a VTC6 and 16AWG 8” leads. A D1S would probably pull a little more, as the Emisar lights take more steps to reduce resistance, but it probably wouldn’t hit the 7A known to be fatal to these emitters. I used the 4000K, 95 CRI SST-20 and still got a modest increase in throw due to the extra current. In a regulated light where I replaced an XP-L HI with the same SST-20, throw stayed exactly the same.

So yes, I expect the low-CRI SST-20 would work in the D1S with the stock driver and probably increase throw substantially. It might be best to use medium-drain batteries if you don’t have spare emitters and the ability to change them until we have more collective experience with this.

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scr79423
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X3 wrote:
I put a whiteflat in my D1S. With a full 30Q it only draws 4,9A… I guess it’s safe enough 310kCd

really? show us some photos…

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scr79423 wrote:
X3 wrote:
I put a whiteflat in my D1S. With a full 30Q it only draws 4,9A… I guess it’s safe enough 310kCd

really? show us some photos…


Damn YMMV… it’s actually a black flat but anyway they’re not sturdier.

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Huge difference on the forward voltage between black flat and CSLNM1.TG.

Black flat can be run on DD driver no problem, white flat pulls over 5A with Panasonic NCR PF, so 30Q will probably get it over 7A and that its a lot of current for that small led. Some guys here do not recommend over 4.5A for maximum performance.

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Maximum output of the little White Flat is @ 5 Amperes.
But it’s not much more output then on 4.5 Amperes.
Not worth overdriving it that hard.
You probably won’t even notice the difference between 4 Amperes and 5 Amperes.

2Q19

Th558
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will the gasket work with GT mini reflector / L4P 3030 PCB ?

Lexel
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would it help if I design a CC FET driver for the D1S that simply act as variable resistor limiting the current,
I found a method that can be used to enhance thermal properties of the board, or we make a board like LED4Power has with fet on MCPCB
similar to TA or LD-4B or that cancelled BLF lantern CC driver I almost had final from design

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Yes please. I know I don’t have a say. But I really want this light to become a reality.

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Personally I am not concerned about the low end, low end efficiency, etc. on a light with this LED. The only issue here I see is regulating the max output. I don't understand the differences of your two options, the pros/cons, etc. Again, my own opinion, but I don't think it's important to have smooth ramping - a stepped ramping (mode levels) like what Anduril does would be fine, if that makes it any easier. Again, no idea what the costs/design tradeoff's of your two options are, so hard to say. I "think" an L4P design still has thermal issues - would the CC FET not have those thermal issues?

Of course it would be great if output doesn't drop as the cell drops, however that may be achieved. Perhaps the firmware can read the voltage and lower the resistance accordingly? I think this was discussed somewhere...

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Tom E wrote:

Personally I am not concerned about the low end, low end efficiency, etc. on a light with this LED. The only issue here I see is regulating the max output. I don’t understand the differences of your two options, the pros/cons, etc. Again, my own opinion, but I don’t think it’s important to have smooth ramping – a stepped ramping (mode levels) like what Anduril does would be fine, if that makes it any easier. Again, no idea what the costs/design tradeoff’s of your two options are, so hard to say. I “think” an L4P design still has thermal issues – would the CC FET not have those thermal issues?


Of course it would be great if output doesn’t drop as the cell drops, however that may be achieved. Perhaps the firmware can read the voltage and lower the resistance accordingly? I think this was discussed somewhere…

thermal issues with about 3W on the board no
I plan to reflow additional copper pieces on both sides to spread heat, bottom would conduct directly in the tube

but best would be a combined MCPCB with FET like L4P has

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Don't recall what the D1S looks like inside, but Hank's D4's are extremely tight for driver height - ugh, but you are probably aware of that already. I'm not a fan - I'd rather add  1-2 mm to the pill size and overall length. More slop space, little more metal in critical heat area.

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Tom E wrote:

Don’t recall what the D1S looks like inside, but Hank’s D4’s are extremely tight for driver height – ugh, but you are probably aware of that already. I’m not a fan – I’d rather add  1-2 mm to the pill size and overall length. More slop space, little more metal in critical heat area.

I am talking only about 0.5mm copper sheet or so, that would minimal increase the gap between tube rim and head,
but could be simply eliminated by shortening the tube on lathe, but MCPCB variant is best

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Lexel, such driver would be great for many lights even if it required buying MCPCBs from Led4Power.
That because:

  • Led4Power drivers don’t support e-switch (though that’s likely to change rather sooner than later)
  • Led4Power drivers don’t allow the great open source UIs that BLFers made (and that’s unlikely to change).

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Received Flat White LED with centre ring so I put it together with D1S stock driver. Center ring helps but it doesn’t fully focus the beam (i.e. hotspot is not perfectly round).

Becareful with center ring as the LED silicon is fragile. Mine got chip at the corner but still working ok Silly

Reflector size (Head to head): D1S have slighly larger reflector so more advantage in throw

Hot spot comparison from left to right
Convoy Flat Black, D1S White Flat , Convoy XP-L HI

Lux reading for hotspot at 8m distance
Convoy Flat Black = 3,392 lux
D1S White Flat = 2,897 lux
Convoy XPL-HI = 1690 lux

Clearly XPL- HI is no match with Osram LED

It’s strange that Flat Black out perform D1S white Flat . Maybe i need to focus the beam again on weekend.

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:
Received Flat White LED with centre ring so I put it together with D1S stock driver. Center ring helps but it doesn’t fully focus the beam (i.e. hotspot is not perfectly round).

Becareful with center ring as the LED silicon is fragile. Mine got chip at the corner but still working ok Silly

Reflector size (Head to head): D1S have slighly larger reflector so more advantage in throw

Hot spot comparison from left to right
Convoy Flat Black, D1S White Flat , Convoy XP-L HI

Lux reading for hotspot at 8m distance
Convoy Flat Black = 3,392 lux
D1S White Flat = 2,897 lux
Convoy XPL-HI = 1690 lux

Clearly XPL- HI is no match with Osram LED

It’s strange that Flat Black out perform D1S white Flat . Maybe i need to focus the beam again on weekend.

simple answer is that its getting too much current and dropping in brightness again because of Auger recombination
White flat should run at 4-4.5A in a light not more

I am sure it will blast the C8 at 1A where the AMCs are fully regulating on both lights

Th558
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Nicolicous wrote:
Received Flat White LED with centre ring so I put it together with D1S stock driver. Center ring helps but it doesn’t fully focus the beam (i.e. hotspot is not perfectly round).

Becareful with center ring as the LED silicon is fragile. Mine got chip at the corner but still working ok Silly

Reflector size (Head to head): D1S have slighly larger reflector so more advantage in throw

Hot spot comparison from left to right
Convoy Flat Black, D1S White Flat , Convoy XP-L HI

Lux reading for hotspot at 8m distance
Convoy Flat Black = 3,392 lux
D1S White Flat = 2,897 lux
Convoy XPL-HI = 1690 lux

Clearly XPL- HI is no match with Osram LED

It’s strange that Flat Black out perform D1S white Flat . Maybe i need to focus the beam again on weekend.


What cell did you use in the D1S?
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i used Samsung 30Q

Hey Lexel i actually ramped down D1S to match the tint with Convoy Flat Black. Im aware it take around 4.5 to 5A as ultimate performance and deteriorates as more current go above.

FET driver can get up to 8A and D1S on turbo it get abit blue tint and i would say around 7000k.

Dont know what other thinks but i like Flat Black more as it seems more robust and giving me better result. Im waiting for parts arrive then i will mod another Convoy 8+ with linear driver LD25 … White Flat vs Flat Black.

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:
i used Samsung 30Q

Hey Lexel i actually ramped down D1S to match the tint with Convoy Flat Black. Im aware it take around 4.5 to 5A as ultimate performance and deteriorates as more current go above.

FET driver can get up to 8A and D1S on turbo it get abit blue tint and i would say around 7000k.

Dont know what other thinks but i like Flat Black more as it seems more robust and giving me better result. Im waiting for parts arrive then i will mod another Convoy 8+ with linear driver LD25 … White Flat vs Flat Black.

you used a 30Q on the white flat and it works? then why is everyone saying you need a new driver? i’m confused

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The battery (30Q) has nothing to do with the driver, in case of the D1S it's an FET driver. The FET driver will pull all amperage it can get from the battery, i.e. using a high drain cell like Samsung 30Q it will draw far more than 4.0 - 4.5A. The white flat has its peak output at 4.0 - 4.5A. Overdriving it will not necessarily kill it but the output will be lower with the additional side effect of lots of generated heat. What you need for the CSLNM1.TG ("White Flat 1mm²") is a current-regulated driver that limits the current to max. 4.5A. So far, the best driver that works out-of-the-box is Neven's LD-A4 driver.

 https://led4power.com/product/ld-a4-2-12amp-17mm-constant-current-led-fl...

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Nicolicous wrote:
i used Samsung 30Q

Hey Lexel i actually ramped down D1S to match the tint with Convoy Flat Black. Im aware it take around 4.5 to 5A as ultimate performance and deteriorates as more current go above.

FET driver can get up to 8A and D1S on turbo it get abit blue tint and i would say around 7000k.

Dont know what other thinks but i like Flat Black more as it seems more robust and giving me better result. Im waiting for parts arrive then i will mod another Convoy 8+ with linear driver LD25 … White Flat vs Flat Black.

You still drive the LED at 8A just pulsed, temerature is OK because it averages, but the Auger recombination depends on current and this mainly let the output drop
also focus may be off

justanotherguy
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So to be fool proof…we would need a d1s, a black or white flat led and that current adjustable driver, and we would have a 320k lux light like Hank almost built….?
And some soldering skills

Edit. I understand the stock driver could be used and just use a low amp battery or smaller guage wires…I just want to be as safe as I can

anyone in NE ILLinois into get togethers?

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Nicolicous wrote:

Dont know what other thinks but i like Flat Black more as it seems more robust and giving me better result. Im waiting for parts arrive then i will mod another Convoy 8+ with linear driver LD25 … White Flat vs Flat Black.

I’m thinking the same. For my single emitter throwers, I have flat black. For my multiple emitters, flat white gave better results.
Anyways, looking forward to the matchup. Keep us posted.

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blueb8llz wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:

Dont know what other thinks but i like Flat Black more as it seems more robust and giving me better result. Im waiting for parts arrive then i will mod another Convoy 8+ with linear driver LD25 … White Flat vs Flat Black.

I’m thinking the same. For my single emitter throwers, I have flat black. For my multiple emitters, flat white gave better results.
Anyways, looking forward to the matchup. Keep us posted.


Multi Flat White emitters, how many and were you using a reflector or an optic? I made a triple FW with a sanded/polished optic, pulling 15amps 2100lms. didn’t like the the triple optic one bit, thinking of using them in a triple UTORCH C8F reflector next….

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scr79423
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

The battery (30Q) has nothing to do with the driver, in case of the D1S it’s an FET driver. The FET driver will pull all amperage it can get from the battery, i.e. using a high drain cell like Samsung 30Q it will draw far more than 4.0 – 4.5A. The white flat has its peak output at 4.0 – 4.5A. Overdriving it will not necessarily kill it but the output will be lower with the additional side effect of lots of generated heat. What you need for the CSLNM1.TG (“White Flat 1mm²”) is a current-regulated driver that limits the current to max. 4.5A. So far, the best driver that works out-of-the-box is Neven’s LD-A4 driver.


 https://led4power.com/product/ld-a4-2-12amp-17mm-constant-current-led-fl...

says driver is 17mm, d1s uses 20mm Sad

Agro
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That’s not a problem:
http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/Misc-Parts/S025087-KT02-17mm-to-20mm-Copper-Ring-Adapter-2pcs?limit=100
The problem is that as of now l4p driver does not support e-switch. Your Emisar will turn to a twisty.

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Ok, guys, I have a few White Flats on the way from Hank… tell me what I have to watch out for. Isolate the MCPCB from ground, limit the emitter to around 4.5A, anything else I should watch for?

I have a D01 Courui that I fitted with a Ledil Seanna quite a while back. It makes over a mile throw with an XP-L HI… thinking of using this 3P 18650 with the White Flat for mega downrange pencil beam. Any thoughts?

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Don't think the white flats required the isolation, black flats do. That sounds like a great host to test one out in!

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Tom E wrote:

Don’t think the white flats required the isolation, black flats do. That sounds like a great host to test one out in!


Yeah, the white flats have a neutral thermal pad, IIRC.

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Yes, regulated to under 5A, and focus focus focus. The centering piece that Hank has made will help with that.

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Ok, yeah, this one has a separate negative contact pad for the leads from the driver so it’s not the pita the Black is. Wink

Will probably build a PZL driver for it… reversing e-switch 7 modes sounds good to me.

I didn’t get the centering ring but will use his old ones. The FR G10 1/2” thick board my Seanna mounts to is threaded onto the light engine part of the Courui, as such it can be threaded up/down to dial in proper focal length to the Seanna optic. Should work. (with this set up there’s really no need for a centering ring, actually)

If I’m not mistaken, the Seanna optic is capable of focusing a die this size to 1º… should prove interesting. There is a pre-focus TIR in the base with a 6” Fresnel lens up top. Ledil claims a peak candela value of up to 800Kcd, I’m getting 666Kcd from the HI if I remember correctly.

Ledil says it will do 1196 cd/lm from a Black Flat. At 94% efficiency. 1º beam, no estimate on Kcd on the Black Flat. No listing on the White Flat. By contrast, they say the XP-L HI makes 492 cd/lm at 2º.



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