Especially considering that when I ordered my ROT66 last year with free shipping it arrived pretty fast.
I didn't order the black one but your one really looks nice with the purple leds.
Yea, really happy with this combination. They sure look purple to me, and you also. The order said they were blue. I think I would prefer purple. I didn’t have a choice but if I did I think mine would have been the clear body. Waiting to see pictures……
I received my E07 today, ordered with Nichia B emitters. I put a Samsung 40T 21700 battery in it (positive towards head) and the only sign of life I can see is 2 of the LEDs on the switch are on. Same goes for using a Sony VTC5A in the 18650 adapter. No function at all when pressing the switch. Or press and holding the switch. Thinking that maybe the light comes in lockout mode I tried 4 presses with no difference. Unless there is some secret series of presses needed to make the light work, it seems my light is DOA right out of the box. Not completely DOA because the 2 lights on the switch do come on, but I was hoping for more than that. There is a stamp on the side of the box where it says (checker) that says PASS and has the number 12 next to it. The shipping box looked in perfect condition, so did the inside product gift box. Not sure how a light could have been tested, passed inspection, then shipped and now DOA.
Can anyone think of something obvious that I am doing wrong to get this light working?
I am sending a copy of this post to Fireflies (whoever started this thread) via PM.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Not sure right now if I feel this light is worth shipping all the way back to China to get fixed, if it is in fact defective.
FWIW, even the lockout mode should light up when the button is pressed… though only at a dim level.
It might be interesting to see what the light does if you click 7 times, or 3 times. But it sounds like something in the driver may be preventing the MCU from receiving power at all, because when the battery connection is made it should flash the main emitters briefly in order to confirm that it booted and is now operational.
Thank you for your response ToyKeeper. I tried 3 presses, then I tried 7 presses with no response. If I unscrew the tailcap (as in locking it out) the 2 LED lights in the switch go off, but when I screw the tailcap back on they go back on, but no main emitters flashing briefly.
I guess I will have to wait for response to my PM from FireFlies.
But thanks again for your input ToyKeeper.
F-O-M, if you put the cell in and then use something to bridge between the negative end of the cell and the bare aluminum end of the battery tube, do the emitters blink the “go” flash? If not, then your battery tube may not be connecting to the driver for ground. Is the battery tube installed in proper orientation? There are other things to check, but most of that depends on the answers to the previous questions…
Are you in the US?
DB - I bridged the aluminum end of the battery tube to the negative end of the battery and no result. While both ends of the battery tube have anodization removed, the tube will only thread in the way it came. The opposite end threads (made for the tailcap) will not thread into the head. I contacted Jack of FireFlies via email, and he responded pretty quickly saying that he will send me another light using expedited mail (15 - 20 days) and asked if I would send the defective light into a US mailing address. I agreed to do that and asked him for the address, but still haven’t received a response.
Yes, I am in the US.
Thanks for your response DB Custom. Appreciate the effort.
Just wondering, are there pictures of the different aux-LEDs available for the Fireflies E07?
Well, if the whole “US Shipping Address” thing doesn’t work out I’d buy the light from you if you’d like. I could probably get it working if you’d just like me to fix it, either way.
the other day i replaced the driver of my dads utorch ut02. When i put the battery in, the side switch lit up but no light out the front. After a quick search it turned out the tube that was in the wrong orientation.
the E07 has different threading on both sides of the tube ;)
Yeah, so I’m wondering if a particular light might have a slightly short tube that doesn’t contact the driver when assembled? Or on the other end, the switch PCB? Perhaps a shorter cell would allow this light to function properly?
easy to test with a 18650 and a wire without the tube and tailcap...
thats my first test (direct at the driver) usually if something does not work
My rot66 had a similar problem; lit up in the beginning but weak, later died completely. Not even any of the switch or aux leds turn on anymore. Of course I did M4D M4X test of connecting the head directly, no change.
So the problem F-O-M has with the E07 also happens with other models.
Can we have a built in USB charger?
Martin, that SHOULD be an easy test, but a slip and all kinds of things can go wrong. I was testing a 30T on my 17 emitter Ham’r and the wire slipped from my grip and shorted… ever so briefly with the tiniest of sparks… killed my monster. Well, it worked, but only the FET’s worked and it wouldn’t shut off at the switch. So I had to completely disassemble the entire light, all 5 drivers, and replace the RPP diode and all 5 7135 regulation chips. Works now, but what a pain it was all due to that one easy slip…
On left is the purple 6 auxiliary leds, which are less bright IRL :
(Clickable pict)
I think all the Fireflies I’ve seen have purple led buttons. Should they not all match unless specified?
E07 and PL47 always have purple button leds regardless of what color aux leds you order. I don’t know about ROT66.