FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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ToyKeeper
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On another note, I finally wrote a user manual for Anduril. This is only a first draft, but I hope it makes sense.

It’s a bit long, so I’m not sure if it will fit well onto paper. There’s a lot to cover though, so even this version is still pretty terse.

galex
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add me – one at LH351D

joechina
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ToyKeeper wrote:
On another note, I finally wrote a user manual for Anduril. This is only a first draft, but I hope it makes sense.

It’s a bit long, so I’m not sure if it will fit well onto paper. There’s a lot to cover though, so even this version is still pretty terse.

finally

Toykeeper, you have mail Smile

Edit: You think it is long? Then don’t open the PDF

hodor
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ToyKeeper wrote:
On another note, I finally wrote a user manual for Anduril. This is only a first draft, but I hope it makes sense.

It’s a bit long, so I’m not sure if it will fit well onto paper. There’s a lot to cover though, so even this version is still pretty terse.

Looks good! I finally got round to playing with Anduril last night and figured most of it out from looking at the diagram and reading anduril.txt. I got stuck in muggle mode for a while because I thought I was in momentary mode but that’s definitely user error Facepalm . The only things I would’ve added are brief explanations and default/min/max values, which you’ve done! Thumbs Up

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
On another note, I finally wrote a user manual for Anduril. This is only a first draft, but I hope it makes sense.

It’s a bit long, so I’m not sure if it will fit well onto paper. There’s a lot to cover though, so even this version is still pretty terse.


This part might be a bit confusing.

Quote:

For smooth ramping mode, there are two menu options:

1. Floor. (default = 1/150)

2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150)

At first I thought you could set the Floor between 1 and 150.

Then the Ceiling was only settable between 120 and 150.

But that’s not right at all. 1/150 means 1 OF 150, not 1 TO 150.

So the Ceiling can be any of 150 steps, but the default just happens to be at 120.

Trap for young players.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
On another note, I finally wrote a user manual for Anduril. This is only a first draft, but I hope it makes sense. It's a bit long, so I'm not sure if it will fit well onto paper. There's a lot to cover though, so even this version is still pretty terse.

Thank you! Do you mind if I translate it into German? I'm not sure if joechina is already up to creating something comparable (printable pdf in a nice layout).

“Everyone, deep in their hearts, is waiting for the end of the world to come.” (Haruki Murakami, 1Q84)

Neilyboy
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I would like a second light as well to give to a friend at work. Please add another light for me.
Neil

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The last prototype looks amazing in grey.

DB Custom
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Therein lies the problem though Jason, she DID state default was set at 1/150, so any REASONABLY intelligent individual would see that the term default showed 1 out of a possible 150 steps, so how do you idiot proof for all the different idiots? I know my own idiocy can, many times, be quite different from the normal… just saying. Once you start configuring the light it becomes pretty evident.

And with this adjustability it becomes easy to set the momentary in lockout to whatever level suits your fancy. It is also easy to set the stepped mode for however many levels one wants, one or three or whatever. So it can suit the needs of a lot of different appetites.

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Stepped mode can’t be configured for one mode. See here but you could probably set the ramp min and max values to the same level and effectively have a 1 mode light.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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As to optical sensing….
Oveready Boss / Lux-RC use this feature to accomplish more than programming.

When the light accidentally activates, it’s usually in a confined space (i.e. pocket) and that space reflects a lot of light back towards the head. They sense this light and act upon this knowledge ( I don’t remember how, but I remember they do it wrong Silly ).

Anyway, it’s the best solution to the problems with accidental activation that I’ve seen.

Now….would it be possible to port it to FW3A?
I don’t think so, you can’t drive a LED and make it sense at the same time. It works on Lux-RC because they have an auxiliary LED that they use as a sensor.
But we have more and more lights which feature aux LEDs as well…

contactcr
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Can we just stick with programming pins + USB for the foreseeable future? We aren’t going to make a Lux-RC clone with $0 budget at a random Chinese factory

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And I’m wondering what the people that want it all would be willing to pay ToyKeeper to write it up… so far it’s a VERY meager salary!

Thank you again ToyKeeper for all that you do.

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DB Custom wrote:
And I’m wondering what the people that want it all would be willing to pay ToyKeeper to write it up… so far it’s a VERY meager salary!

Thank you again ToyKeeper for all that you do.

I bet that question puts things in perspective. Big Smile Big Smile

It’s kinda interesting to read about, but in the ‘real world’ how many people would even use the features that have been mentioned??

I’m thinking, in the big scheme of things; not very many.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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ToyKeeper
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Agro wrote:
As to optical sensing….

Most of this was addressed about a page ago: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1441217#comment-1441217

Agro wrote:
Anyway, it’s the best solution to the problems with accidental activation that I’ve seen.

OTOH, I’ve heard it’s difficult to configure the sensitivity in a way which doesn’t get false positives or false negatives. I’ve heard the reflection sensor has a tendency to either fail to detect reflections from dark surfaces, which are the most likely to start fires… or a tendency to trigger itself when it shouldn’t. It’s neat, but due to the light-absorbing and heat-absorbing properties of black matte materials, the types of surfaces it really needs to respond to are exactly the ones it has difficulty with.

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Firelight2 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Freedom wrote:
I believe that he was asking …

It seems not everyone recognized the presence of a joke.

A while back, I taught a flashlight how to see, how to receive information from a computer screen using its own built-in LEDs as a sensor. And in my excitement, I asked DEL to add the requisite connections for this on the FW3A driver since it had an unused pin. And he did.

But in the process of developing a working proof of concept, I discovered that the concept is not actually very useful or practical. It’s about as useful as putting a sun roof on a motorcycle. Transferring data that way is slow, awkward, fragile, complicated, high-risk, low-reward, and did I mention slow? It’d take hours to transfer an entire ROM, and could quite easily brick itself. It didn’t seem worth the cost in terms of ROM bytes and development time. So I kinda abandoned the idea.

The optic nerve is still there in case anyone wants to use it, but the Lux-RC (Boss) optical programming thing isn’t really a practical feature; it’s more of a novelty or a way to entertain the user.

How about using your optical programming thing with a phone app?

Make an app that lets you customize a few options in your driver. What you want your ramp settings at or shortcuts. Minimal things like that.

Then you could use your optical sensor as a way to get these inputs from the phone to the light. As long as the amount of data being transferred is mininal the slow data-transfer speed shouldn’t be an issue.

I think that is exactly what the Oveready Boss does.

ToyKeeper
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hodor wrote:
The only things I would’ve added are brief explanations and default/min/max values, which you’ve done! Thumbs Up

I’m not sure the default values really fit in a generic manual though, since they are different for each model of flashlight. A lot of options really depend on which light it’s being used on. So I mostly tried to write it in a way which can be copy/pasted into the middle of a printed user manual with only minimal need for editing.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Agro wrote:
As to optical sensing….

Most of this was addressed about a page ago: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1441217#comment-1441217

Agro wrote:
Anyway, it’s the best solution to the problems with accidental activation that I’ve seen.

OTOH, I’ve heard it’s difficult to configure the sensitivity in a way which doesn’t get false positives or false negatives. I’ve heard the reflection sensor has a tendency to either fail to detect reflections from dark surfaces, which are the most likely to start fires… or a tendency to trigger itself when it shouldn’t. It’s neat, but due to the light-absorbing and heat-absorbing properties of black matte materials, the types of surfaces it really needs to respond to are exactly the ones it has difficulty with.


That’s the first report of how it works in practice that I’ve seen. Thank you.
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DB Custom wrote:
And I’m wondering what the people that want it all would be willing to pay ToyKeeper to write it up… so far it’s a VERY meager salary!

Thank you again ToyKeeper for all that you do.

+1

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I’m interested. Looks great!

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I am in for 1 please! Reading back through I didnt see my name on the list. My wife is gonna throw me out of the house soon, also waiting on a Convoy L6 and an Emisar D1s……. Really debating the D1s since I keep hoping Hank will do a 26650 or 27700 version like with the D4s….

Lurking flashaholic, Ive bought all my flashlights through lurking here, BLF A6, Sofirn C8F, Soforn Q8, Emisar D4, and a few not so budget lights but I mod them all the same! Been waiting for the FW3A to come out for years now.......

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junkyardbiker wrote:
I am in for 1 please! Reading back through I didnt see my name on the list.

Please don’t repeat your request for 1 light. It makes things confusing. You’ve only just asked, give it at least a week before looking for your name on the list. Thanks.

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hodor
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m not sure the default values really fit in a generic manual though, since they are different for each model of flashlight. A lot of options really depend on which light it’s being used on. So I mostly tried to write it in a way which can be copy/pasted into the middle of a printed user manual with only minimal need for editing.

Maybe not for the graphic, I was thinking mainly of anduril.txt for stock Anduril. I guess this has now been deprecated in favour of anduril-manual.txt?

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JasonWW wrote:
junkyardbiker wrote:
I am in for 1 please! Reading back through I didnt see my name on the list.
Please don’t repeat your request for 1 light. It makes things confusing. You’ve only just asked, give it at least a week before looking for your name on the list. Thanks.

Sorry about that then! Im rather excited hahaha

Lurking flashaholic, Ive bought all my flashlights through lurking here, BLF A6, Sofirn C8F, Soforn Q8, Emisar D4, and a few not so budget lights but I mod them all the same! Been waiting for the FW3A to come out for years now.......

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ToyKeeper wrote:

It could be pretty useful as a means of reflashing the firmware or for makers who want an easy way to calibrate things before shipping an item to a customer. Sending an entire ROM is slow though. With no control over the device being used to transmit data, it would be unsafe to assume a high frame rate. In a browser, for example, even 15 fps may be pushing it. And although the sensor is pretty fast, the meaningfulsender (screen) is generally pretty slow and possibly even inconsistent because it’s common to see timing aberrations when other parts of the system are busy. Like, if the OS decides to do a routine maintenance task in the middle of transmission, the browser is likely to lose some time slices here and there. So the data transmission timing windows need to be pretty large. And it’ll need a way to detect corrupt or failed data transfers. But when errors happen, the light has no way to send data back so it can’t request corrections. It may thus be necessary to send each byte two or three times to be sure.

I reckon a phone app could work well. Better than using a computer monitor.

A modern smart ‘phone has a light / proximity sensor, and a selfie camera, either of which could be used to establish bi-directional comms. with a robust protocol.

Also to have phone ability to back-up several user-configurations for quick re-use according to circumstance. A bit like choosing ringtones.

Or use the rear camera and it’s LED flash as the comms. port.

It might even be possible to re-use a standard half-duplex comms. protocol, and software stack.

A modern smartphone can display HD video at 30p or 60p, maybe even faster, and has a dedicated graphics processor to keep it flowing smoothly. It might even be possible to use an LCD display at much higher data rates by strobing the LCD backlight rather than modulating the LCD itself.

I don’t see much point in using this to change complete firmwares, which would also need a bootloader to be integrated with the protocol, and permanently resident (taking up space), but as a way of making configuration changes it would be nice. The app. also being an interactive manual to the UI, rather than the crib sheets that are increasingly necessary as complexity grows.

Just using a few tick-boxes to begin with.

A complete re-configuration, even a re-write of the ramping table to fine-tune it for different emitter options, or change thermal management control loop parameters to suit ongoing development or user preference, could surely be done in a reasonable time, seconds, or a few minutes. And perhaps monetized with micro-payments.

It could be a real money-spinner for whoever develops it, defines the protocols, controls the encryption keys, or rolling code, and sells the app.

As well as an interesting new skill to develop with other marketplaces that I haven’t even thought of yet. Internet of things sort of stuff, but without the security worries. Just wave your ‘phone, or a “smart torch” over a (very inexpensive) terminal containing not much more than an LED and a small MCU, no NFC, no WiFi, no Bluetooth parts to pay for or to configure, or software stacks to license. Shield the light (or IR) from interception, even just by holding a hand over. Phone to ‘phone, or torch to phone, or terminal, like a 1D or 2D barcode or QR reader but so much cheaper to implement.

A full 2D barcode conveys only 4kbytes of information. I reckon, even if that was all needed, even that could be transferred reasonably swiftly. The 1D ones are trivial.

Door locks, hotel room entry, ID badges with swipe or RFID stuff, keyless car entry and mobilisation, supermarket sales, chip and PIN, boarding passes, all potentially replaceable with either a dirt-cheap key-ring sized device, or just an app. The USP being the low cost of the terminal, compared with what we have now.

For firmware updates, let’s first see whether the various disparate pogo pin connectors gain any traction in the field. Even amongst those who regularly re-flash, whom I suspect are actually a very small minority here. Most using pre-compiled binaries and fuse maps. A very few trying out their own ideas.

Some study material:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free-space_optical_communication

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RONJA

I worked on a free space optical network around the science site of my university as a student. Back then we didn’t have affordable LEDs or laser diodes or PIN photodiodes. We were modulating filament bulbs, using ex-army phototubes as detectors, and cheap Russian binoculars (one eyepiece for transmit, one for receive, full duplex), and got it working over a km at 300 Baud ISTR. Fun, and we learned a lot about many aspects of Applied Physics.

It would be so much easier these days. A scrap DVD or BluRay burner for the laser and photodiode and lenses, Arduino or RasPi, some minimal extra hardware, cheap binoculars or just magnifying glasses, ingenuity and basic knowledge of optics, physics, electronic hardware design and software. I.e a great little student project, that might still have some relevance and useful application.

Also handy for stimulating the optic nerve, and reading back the results, if a smartphone app. isn’t good enough.

Consider that Ronja can run 10 Mbit/s Ethernet over much more than a km just using a pair of cheap magnifying glasses as optics, and it is entirely open-source. And quite old, over ten years, and LEDs now are far better.

Imagine the possibilities with our sophisticated bits and pieces nowadays.

Surely there is something there that can be re-used ?

http://ronja.twibright.com/about.php

Or instead start with proven robust simplex 1D barcode protocols. At the end of the day they are just read by scanning, i.e looking out for some blinking light reflected back into the scanner, which as we all know is very robust, mature technology, and tolerant of all sorts of difficulties that do not stop them working admirably.

It’s all available, open-sourced, e.g https://sourceforge.net/projects/zint/

As are the 1D, 2D and QR code scanners, using phone cameras with static images rather than hardware scanning.

Just blink them into the torch, from the ‘phone, having first “scanned” and interpreted them in the phone app, using it’s camera. Even send them to the ‘phone as an MMS

iamlucky13
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hodor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m not sure the default values really fit in a generic manual though, since they are different for each model of flashlight. A lot of options really depend on which light it’s being used on. So I mostly tried to write it in a way which can be copy/pasted into the middle of a printed user manual with only minimal need for editing.

Maybe not for the graphic, I was thinking mainly of anduril.txt for stock Anduril. I guess this has now been deprecated in favour of anduril-manual.txt?

I happened to be looking into this a couple nights ago out of curiosity.

While not in the graphic or anduril-manual.txt, it seems we can get the model-specific info from the config files she keeps in the firmware repository. These get optionally incorporated when compiling the code. I suppose the config file could specify the defaults directly, but the few I’ve checked do so indirectly by identifying the number of PWM channels and the max level of the 2nd channel if there are 3 channels. The normal logic is to set the smooth ramp floor to 1, and the discrete ramp floor to 20.

Then both the smooth and discrete ramps ceilings are set to 120 unless the driver is identified as a triple channel. In that case, both ceilings are set at the Nx7135 channel max.

For the FW3A, that is level 130.

But really, the defaults shouldn’t be too important. As long as you know how to configure the levels, you can set whatever ramp ceiling fits your needs and not worry about what it was originally.

rgkeller
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I would like one please.

Scooby
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Put me down for 2 please!!!

Thank you!!! Love Thumbs Up

litcrit
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Please add me to the list for one. Thanks!

paosms
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Interested!
Thanks

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