He eliminates the least needed components, C2 and the 47 ohm in line to the FET gate, but kept in the 100K. I know he had a specific order of priority and definitely that 4.7 ohm guy before the diode was very important. Before DEL's design in of the 4.7, it was hit and miss whether a 25/45/85 would work or not. Richard at MtnE had a different approach that worked but DEL's design is better, as proved on the scope.
Ohh, fyi. The classic 8x7135 ATtiny13A driver design was out of spec for the 13A, but seemed to always work. The 25/45/85's turned out to be more finicky/sensitive, so that's why the 4.7 ohm is needed -- it should have been in the classic 13A 105C/105D boards all along.
I think what Iāll do is net the two R4 pads together, that way if anything is wrong (doubtful but stillā¦) I can cut the trace and solder the resistor in place later.
Edit:
Welp Iām an idiotā¦
My first thought was 0402ās but nixed that right away. better think again
Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.
To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:
Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.
The cover is made from 0.032ā aluminum sheet for the main piece with 0.016ā for the hinge.
The hinge pin is a piece of copper rod I had laying around bent into the shape of a staple.
I drilled 2 holes in the top of the head for the hinge pints. They arenāt very deep. Maybe 3 mm or so.
I used Fiberfix optical super glue to hold the whole thing together. I accidentally got some glue on the top of the switch boot. Looks unsightly but has no affect on operation so Iāll probably leave it.
The sides of the cover grip the sides of the head keeping the cover securly in position while closed.
I removed the anodizing from the aluminum head so it would match the aluminum cover. I also polished the bare aluminum on both the cover and the head.
When the cover is closed the switch cannot be depressed. The cover can be flipped up or down with a quick thumb action.
Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.
@pinkpanda3310
Really nice work! I envy you!!!
A lathe could make things so much easier. But on the other hand it would end up in me spending much more hours now not only modding lights. No now i had to build them. Maybe i should be lucky to no longer having access to a lathe
The ti D4 does lock out with tail unscrewed because the current path does not use the cap, it goes directly from the insulated tailboard to the battery tube.
I replaced the quad with a triple luxeon V2 and polished the body of my Sinner Gen1 aluminum host. Went from ~40% optics loss with the downsized quad to a respectable 16% optics loss with the unmolested carlco triple. Using 22AWG wire and no spring bypass its running 2.6A/led and doing 2563 lemons, down 2.6A and up 313lm from when it was a quad!
Iāve got pcbās coming for a new driver for it, once those get here and I take it apart again Iām going to try to find a better fitting O-ring for the lens, I think that may be robbing a lemon or two (itāll also get 18AWG then and spring bypasses for unrestricted turbo since itās a 3ch driver so itāll have a regulated high mode).
I like this one, it looks like how it looked before polishing but it was taken today, I had dropped it into the snow, picked it up and blew it off and it steamed up from my breath, not actually a before pic at all.
CK, nice mod! I've seen similar results with triples getting about the same as quads.
Ohhh - I received the first batch of 3 of the ZY-T11 clone OSHPark drivers and started on them. I cut down the small Blue BeCu springs, expanded the spring pads a bit (scraped off some surrounding soldermask). Also sanded down the edge of the board in front of the switch - not sure if it was necessary or not. Fitted the bare driver in - looks good so far. It's thicker than the stock driver but should be ok. In the past I've used the Maxtoch 26 mm MCPCB's and UCLp lenses from flashlightlens.com, but kind of drives up the cost of the mod. I've also used a copper slug of some sorts under the shelf, but the stock shelf isn't all that bad. These are old pics below: