[Optisolis/E17A/E21A] Jetbeam Jet-µ

I thought 3 or 4 but got distracted and didn’t vote. I would also like to thank my IPS monitor!

SNAP!

I didn’t end up voting, because I could not decide. The crayons were pretty saturated colors, which combined with the limited color space of most monitors and the sRGB standard, meant even for the worst light it was hard to tell between the red channel being maxed out, or just close.

On the other hand, when you get really bad CRI, and especially combined with a very cool color temperature, you get this:

Alive and Dead at the same time

I have never, in all my time enjoying the outdoors, found myself lamenting the ugly green tint of real daylight.

However, when comparing lights of various of various CRI’s and Duv’s under similar situations, I do find a preference to stay at or very slightly below the BBL.

You always say this…
I start to wonder where you got your 219C from.
Must admit, the 3000K and 2700K i got from Clemence i find way too green too.
But not the 3500K and above.
Although my first impression of the 4000K in a C8 with OP reflector was very disappointing.
Definitely positive DUV in the corona. Not nice.
But i love them in a TIR optic.

I’ve only ever had two 219C lights ,but both were green. 1 was a Manker E14 straight from Manker (5000k R9050), the other was a D4S from Intl Outdoor (5000k R9050).

Hmmm…
I think i bought the quad board with optic from Intl Outdoor…
Not tested yet, but i like the ones from the horrible Astrolux S42.
Will test the IO ones soon then…
Hope it’s the same tint as the S42 ones.

I have nine 219C 4000K emitters - three single emitter lights and six loose emitters from KD. All green to varying degrees.

I have 1 4000K triple from KD, which are just a lot warmer (more yellow) than my other 4000K’s.
I bought a bunch from a BLF member WWEFANS and a buch from Clemence, which seem to be the same tint.
Yes, i suppose they are positive DUV, but never bothered me and never greener than any Cree i have.
Some find the LH351D 4000K 90CRI green too.
The ones i got from led4power don’t seem green to me.
Maybe it’s me. :slight_smile:

Here’s a comparison I did recently which includes some of my 4000K emitters. I screwed up the label for the 219C. It shouldn’t say V2 5D it should just be 219C D240 4000K 90CRI. No idea what the DUV is on any of these but I have a hard time seeing much green in any of them even though i’m sure some are above the BBL.

That 219C looks goood :+1:

No such thing as a 219C v2 5D. You probably wanted to write XP-L HI v2 5D? Cree 5D tint is one of the best ever. It is very similar to Nichia 219B 9080 and E21A. If you compare Cree 5D with a 219C, you will realize how green 219C is unless you get the sm4070E bin from Clemence.

I just received my Fireflies E07 SST-20 95CRI 4000k FA3 tint bin. Turned it on and thought the tint looked really good on turbo (low mode is very green). Then I turned on my D4S with 5D tint and all of a sudden the SST-20 appeared green when compared side by side.

Its a 219C 4k 90cri from Mtn i goofed on the label and mentioned in my comment

FWIW: Who can resist the temptation of absolutes and universal vision?
Our bodies are all somewhat different, doesn’t that include our eyes and eyesight?
Retinas have different ratios of cones, rods, deterioration and sensitivities. Corneas yellow with age.

Blue light scatters more in the vitreous.
Floaters block images, forcing the brain to fill in the voids.
Daylight isn’t always perfect lighting for everybody, emitters can appear much different throughout the day.

Outdoor gardening after sunset is much easier for me using a greenish emitter.
During the day copper, tinted sunglasses give me the best color contrast, similar to the traditional below the ANSI BBL Nichias.
Beautiful tint is in the eyes of the beholder.
High Cri for interior design and selling consumer goods can be significant for us flashaholics, but hardly a panacea.

Looking at the numbers on Optisolis, seems like the higher CCT you go, the slightly better the numbers. I’m almost tempted to get a 6500k one just for the novelty of it. Maybe one 6500k and one 5000k.

Weren’t the E21A and 20 degree Optisolis scheduled to go live a couple days ago?

Yup, if only the custom didn’t returned my lens back to the sender. They RE-ship back the packet two days ago. That must one hell of dizzy trips for the lens

EDIT: wrong answer…Some suggests me to wait until they’re all ready because some people want to get both Jetusolis and Jetue21a. And not all people watch this forum.

- Clemence

Waiting for beam perfection is a wait worth it. Is the bezel hard to screw off in case I did want to put like a 1/8th minus green on?

Yes, not all Jet-U I got free from glue…. :expressionless:
Some are very hard to open. Luckily it’s not real threadlocker, judging from the residue it’s more like an UHU glue. Meant to ease the installation. Don’t worry, I’ll open it up for you.

- Clemence

I am very glad these lights are going to happen!

As I see it, the higher the CCT, the closer the theoretical black body peak gets to the LED. You don’t need the phosphor to produce as much red, and you don’t need to trade off as much blue to get your other colors.

Up to about 4000K, the black body peak happens beyond the human visual range, but the phosphor peaks happen within the visual range, so their output is declining as wavelength increases in a range where the theoretical target needs increasing output as wavelength increases.

UPDATE 190120: First batch production has started

Bad news (for me). Newer Jet-U are GLUED. Fortunately, still removable although with extra hassles and chemistry lesson :neutral_face:

- Clemence

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to suppress the violet/blue peak with, say, a uv lee filter? What kind of tint/cri shift does this cause?

I dont mean to cut it off entirely, just to the point so that it does not stick from the black body spectrum