What is with the electronic lockout? Doesnt it have this?
The lack of anodisation is not verry good for such a flashlight at all.
I finally took a beam shot that included the Luxeon MZ build from the below quote in case anyone was curious, far right:
WB=5500K, ISO=125
Some work on the tail…
That’s looking pretty nice 
The ti D4 does lock out with tail unscrewed because the current path does not use the cap, it goes directly from the insulated tailboard to the battery tube.
I like this alot……. Love the tapered head! How much with shipping to the States when your done? 
Edit: DIBS!
I replaced the quad with a triple luxeon V2 and polished the body of my Sinner Gen1 aluminum host. Went from ~40% optics loss with the downsized quad to a respectable 16% optics loss with the unmolested carlco triple. Using 22AWG wire and no spring bypass its running 2.6A/led and doing 2563 lemons, down 2.6A and up 313lm from when it was a quad!
I’ve got pcb’s coming for a new driver for it, once those get here and I take it apart again I’m going to try to find a better fitting O-ring for the lens, I think that may be robbing a lemon or two (it’ll also get 18AWG then and spring bypasses for unrestricted turbo since it’s a 3ch driver so it’ll have a regulated high mode).
I like this one, it looks like how it looked before polishing but it was taken today, I had dropped it into the snow, picked it up and blew it off and it steamed up from my breath, not actually a before pic at all.
Shipping is a lot cheaper to me in Australia. 
Are you enjoying the build pp?
True…but I edited my post….
CK, nice mod! I've seen similar results with triples getting about the same as quads.
Ohhh - I received the first batch of 3 of the ZY-T11 clone OSHPark drivers and started on them. I cut down the small Blue BeCu springs, expanded the spring pads a bit (scraped off some surrounding soldermask). Also sanded down the edge of the board in front of the switch - not sure if it was necessary or not. Fitted the bare driver in - looks good so far. It's thicker than the stock driver but should be ok. In the past I've used the Maxtoch 26 mm MCPCB's and UCLp lenses from flashlightlens.com, but kind of drives up the cost of the mod. I've also used a copper slug of some sorts under the shelf, but the stock shelf isn't all that bad. These are old pics below:
Woke up this Bored and Stroked Surefire 6P with a Copper (kiriba-ru) P60 Quad (hand fit to a press fit) pill using Lumileds V2 2x5000k by 2x6500k on a Mtn Quad mcpcb, Mtn. FET+1 Infineon FET driver Guppydrv3 with 18awg Leads.
A Surefire Z59 modded KAN9 tail cap Fwd. click, pulling just over 18amps at the tail for 4500+lms. on a VTC5A.
I Left the shoulder inside battery tube, (instead of boring thru) to retain/stop the battery from slamming into the driver, one of Blue’s springs in the tail cap with 18awg bypass covers the 6P’s six.
Borofloat double AR coated glass lens in the Z44 head.
A Wolf in Sheep’s clothing if you will…I used to have a Pro Built ( Corky’s Competition) 498 cubic inch Bored/Stroked (under the hood) Dual Quad Olds 442 in primer that was the same way….
Oh, I do... And it's a beautiful beam, too.
Body: Nitecore HC33
LED: XHP50 90CRI 4500K
Driver: Caerus 1.7h
Lens: Carclo 10140
Nice mod Tamagotchi. Do you have any more info on the driver?
Sorry I do not speak English.
Output 6V 2A
6 modes including moonlight and turbo
1 short click - on/off
press and hold to switch modes
2 short click for Turbo
PID thermal regulated outputs (turbo and max)
Battery capacity indicator and battery protection
Some very high end mods up there from Kawi and Tamagotchi ! 
A similar driver is the H1-A: http://kaidomain.com/S026606-H1-A-20mm-3A-1-cell-1-Mode-or-5-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-Cree-XHP50-6V-MT-G2-MK-R2
I have seen somewhere a tutorial to use it as eSwitch driver. You have to remove the Capacitor and solder the switch wires on that points, i think.
How did you get that so perfectly centered? I have a C8 with a white flat and I can’t get it that good, and you’re even using an XM-L2 centering ring.