Fireflies E07 preview

Received my clear ano Nichia 219. Oh man… Its perfect. Colour of light is good. Machining is so nice, feels good to touch. Can barely feel the machining with nails… Awsome. Switch needs to be pressed hard. Just perfect… Im happy, thanks FF

The tubes on both of my E07s are 73.93mm. However, the solder blob on the spring in one of the heads is a bit larger than the other, so the same battery sticks out more of the tube on that unit.

Given other people reporting tube length of 73.93mm, it seems the issue is not manufacturing/QC but simply that the design of the tube was spec’ed too short. I’d pay $5-$8 for a new 76mm tube so I can avoid the gap caused by inserting a copper ring in the tail cap.

how does one return all settings to default position? Or is that done individually? :person_facepalming:

thanky for your measurements!
mine is 73.9mm too

(so its not a manufacturing variation)

another puzzle piece:
the guys with the non sharp fins have the clear ano version? right?
colored heads are sharp?


EVERY FF and Anduril user should download and print this out. It makes everything clear. Thanks for posting this TK

EVERY FF and Anduril user should download and print this out. It makes everything clear. Thanks for posting this TK

well, it’s a start to making everything clear, but very helpful … yes, thank you TK!

There isn’t a factory reset function yet. I’ll probably add one at some point though… mostly so people can auto-calibrate the temperature sensor. The idea is to hold the e-switch and then tighten the tailcap to connect power, then keep holding for a few seconds to confirm a reset is desired. Then it should reset all config values and calibrate the current temperature based on the assumption that the light is about 21 C.

I took a quick stab at it last month for the FW3A, but it’s trickier there because it physically can’t have the button pressed until after power is connected.

…. thanks ToyKeeper, I’ll give it a go.

edit: 21 Celsius = 69.8 Degree Fahrenheit

Correct I compared them. The clear anodized version has small chamfers on the fins whereas the earlier colored versions have sharp edges. Guess they listened to your request.

:+1: +1

The big blob of solder on the driver springs of my two lights costs >1.5mm of spring compression, maybe 2mm on one of them
.
Edit: (that’s after I nipped off what was above the top of the springs)

Make sure the solder blob is only sticking to the top coil. If it sticks to the top and 2nd coil and keeps them from compressing that could cost you some space. Press on the spring with your finger, it needs to go about half way down. If it doesn’t make sure the bypass wire is able to go into the driver hole when pressed. If it binds up/is kinked that could be an issue too.

Why solder blob the spring at all. My PL47 has one and it does use up a couple of mm of precious space.

I have an E07 on the way. So far four ROT66 and one PL47 in the armory.

A bit more output. I agree though factory spring bypass is risky. They already use high current springs so it’s probably a smallish gain for a lot of risk with battery fitment and risk of breaking.

I have a clear and i look at the deges of the fins and the edge is machined flat on the edge. So the edge on mine is great. Feels like a rounded edge

My dark gray is not rounded. Anyone with a clear have a good enough camera to show that edge? I know Dale will take his signature pics

.

Clear

Grey

best I can do

Wow more than I could have hoped for. You can even see the machining on the flats. Thanks for the pic i bet that makes a big difference in how it feels

I noticed the extra chamfering on the clear ano version when I saw vinh’s pic. Thanks for confirming this.

Max ramp should be under 50% power by default.