There isn’t a factory reset function yet. I’ll probably add one at some point though… mostly so people can auto-calibrate the temperature sensor. The idea is to hold the e-switch and then tighten the tailcap to connect power, then keep holding for a few seconds to confirm a reset is desired. Then it should reset all config values and calibrate the current temperature based on the assumption that the light is about 21 C.
I took a quick stab at it last month for the FW3A, but it’s trickier there because it physically can’t have the button pressed until after power is connected.
Correct I compared them. The clear anodized version has small chamfers on the fins whereas the earlier colored versions have sharp edges. Guess they listened to your request.
The big blob of solder on the driver springs of my two lights costs >1.5mm of spring compression, maybe 2mm on one of them
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Edit: (that’s after I nipped off what was above the top of the springs)
Make sure the solder blob is only sticking to the top coil. If it sticks to the top and 2nd coil and keeps them from compressing that could cost you some space. Press on the spring with your finger, it needs to go about half way down. If it doesn’t make sure the bypass wire is able to go into the driver hole when pressed. If it binds up/is kinked that could be an issue too.
A bit more output. I agree though factory spring bypass is risky. They already use high current springs so it’s probably a smallish gain for a lot of risk with battery fitment and risk of breaking.
Wow more than I could have hoped for. You can even see the machining on the flats. Thanks for the pic i bet that makes a big difference in how it feels
The default ramp ceiling is 120/150 for the dimming levels. Not sure how that correlates to output though, it would probably change a lot per LED/battery type/# of LEDs.
