OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

IF member A, and member B, and you, and me all had identical lights (model, cell, led, driver) and held this in fromt of the same model luxmeter we would have four different outcomes. Because there are too much variables to consider. Fresh cell’s, topped-off cell’s, waiting 30sec (yes/no), distance from light to meter, etc.
The only outcome that is reasonably accurate is the difference before/after mod of each individual member.
If you say it is +15, that can be 13 as wel as 17%, but it is still more reliable than comparing the outcome of member A after his mod with that of member B before his mod.

Djozz once measured that UNI-T UT383 in comparison with mobilux one and told me that uni-t under reads for about 15 % de domed XP-G2 S4 2B and I think Djozz or someone said that same light meter could easily over read White flat emitters because of tint or hue I am not sure…

If that is true than theoretically except better tint of WF1 (well for mine use kinda greenish warm tint of G2S42B is better), no need for de dome, better run time there is no much difference between them. G2 is still more suitable for FET drivers and has larger die so greater hotspot in aspherics.

But if I just check side by side same light with different emitters(g2 vs wf1) without lux meter it seems that WF1 throws further but I can’t give real values (around 15% for sure).

I just want to say that even cheap lux meter like UNI-T UT383 will serve well to tell you where you are with your build.

Ha, well actually it was not the safest setup. I was not thinking quite enough and put the resistor on the positive side of the LED which left the possibility of shorting the battery if the anodization wore through at the head and at the battery tube-to-head threads.

I shortened the resistor some and put it on the negative side to reduce the shorting risk. Start current with the same charged 30Q is now 7.0A which should get me an extra 8% or so of output. Ceiling bounce test puts it at very approximately 1400 lumens OTF (83% of a dedomed XPL V6 at 6A from a EE X6).

I use a Tondaj LX 1010B lux meter.

1700 OTF lumens from a dedomed XPL cant be right

I’ve been thinking about this recently….
Member A to member B comparisons are really bad. We’re all over the place.
See this:

GT Mini is 106-170 kcd (without outliers 106-145)
Manker U21 is 79-127 kcd (without outliers 96-127)
Utorch UT02 is 60-105 kcd (without outliers 75-105)
Thrunite Catapult V6 is 151-195 kcd (there are no outliers)

I wonder if the recent djozz’s research into lux meters and maukka’s calibration sets will improve the state of affairs….I surely hope so.

Unless an inexpensive luxmeter is cross-verified by other more expensive (read currently calibrated/certified/industrial/commercial/professional grade luxmeter’s) I don’t trust the reading by anyone’s single luxmeter to be accurate. Not even my own inexpensive single luxmeter.

Of course I might be more inclined to believe any poster’s reading if let’s say three different brand luxmeters were used identically during the test and then their results were compared and THEN were averaged. I might kinda have more trust in that averaged reading. :student:

Just too many people using different apparatuses, distances, setups, and other sundry uncertified tweaks and inherent nuances in the instrument itself, much less the skill/competence of the operator, for true accuracy reliance on my part. JMO. :open_mouth:

You’re probably right. Maybe it’s more like 1500-1600 djozz lumens. In any case the performance of this CSLPM1 is great.

If only measuring light was as straightforward, accurate and cheap as measuring voltage….

Happened across the fact that OSRAM recently listed a monochrome green CSLNM1. F1 on their site. I expect that monochromatic LEDs are not typically desired but it should be noted it maxes out at 560 lumens, 160 lumens over the CSLNM1.tg.

Anybody want to buy in on the 1000 min order? I’m in for 3 or 4…

Link please.
I’ll take 20-30pcs.

Osram announced a few months ago that they improved the efficiency of their green leds with 40 (!) %. This may be one of those.

Edit: it is listed at Mouser and RS but both show no stock.

Edit2: looking at the datasheet: it is not a real green led but a phosfor-converted green, far from monochromatic.

Oh, apparently I learned something I didn’t know, I assumed monochrome was simply single color. I What is the difference between monochrome and converted? Effective difference as I somewhat understand the phosphor converted. I expect it is the spike in wavelength in the blue freq…

On a separate note, with it being phosphor converted will a RTL collar work with these?

Thanks for the link.
I could not find what is the wavelength of emitted light in their datasheet!!!

Good point. Their spectral plot shows it peaking just below 525nm and the top of the curve spreading between 525 and 550,but they don’t bin them. In fact the only “bin” they list is “A” and they only associate that against brightness bin 5P

how is the beam in the 2mm^2 version? I see the die is rectangular, I wanted to use it in a C8 host but I don’t know if the beam is going to be right or this led should be used only with aspherical lens

You will not notice anything different in the beam when the 2mm2 Flat White is used in a reflector light.

the sofirn c8t driver can be bought from sofirn store on ali. its max 4.5 amp according to them.
Is there a reason this wouldnt work?
its pwm tho so regulated should be better right?

this is still a DD driver so no regulation at all, just their main Mosfet sucks so bad it has limit the current a bit, but not with ultra low Vf LEDs

Ow oke thanks for the response. I already ordered some 7135s so i guess my soldering skills will be called upon :wink: