How challenging is it to get the board in the right placement and get the wires soldered back to the main LED board and to the add-on board, and put the optic back in, all without shorting or twisting anything?
Hi lelex, have you published the schematic for your lighted TIR boards?
I’ve designed a TIR light board for a one-off project of mine using all passive components and a comparator but I’d be interested to see how a “smarter” solution was designed and laid out.
I am using pretty much same as you a comparator and LDO generating a reference voltage
I basically drew on some paper a scematic which is lost generally starting a new design on an already functioning board and keeping all nets as they were
on newest boards like E07 I have added a fet to get the comparator working down to 3V battery voltage so that MCU diode drop is not increasing the lowest voltage
even the parasitic drain of LDO and comparator is very low
I am build my own gfs16 pcbs and you can see how loneoceans made his led board. I do not see the schematic there yet but it looks like it use two nanopower comparator and one voltage reference to have 5.5uA super low standby current. I think because no LDO is used, the standby current is much lower.
The two bank of leds are switch on and off by small mosfet with battery indicator. I have order the pcb and parts to make my own led board also. With board file and part list, not too difficult to trace out layout to generate schematic.
he uses a Maxim with integrated reference that has a parasitic drain 2-3 times more than my solution
I asked him if I can use his board as a starting point to do my own, but I ended up making some things differently including another comparator(mainly because its cheaper and lower standby drain)
it look like that is the older version when I order part. The rev B use only one voltage reference and two comparator I see for 5.5uA standby current (from page)
I am trying to add some side light to my flashlight. You seem to have a lot of pretty color led. Can you please share us the part number for the led colors you are using?
green
blue
ice blue
pink
WW
red
CW
orange
yellow
emerald green
purple
I dont think it makes a difference that it’s a D4 but the tolerances for where the LED +/- are may not work for anything but a Noctigon 4XP. I guess YMMV. Maybe Lexel has tested others.
Edit: I see it works on L4P board. Looks less likely to work here:
I wasn’t going to go with an Emisar… have Fireflies E07 on my horizon. If there’s definitely not going to be one of these TIR boards available for the E07, then I may have to shift gears.
technically you dont need to screw down the aux board,
having it simply floating between optics and MCPCB, a few mm up are no problem to get the L4P board soldered,
you could also use some 3mm hole spacers to lift iut but got it screwed down
the E07 has already my board in the stock light, so there is no real need for me to order this board size
with LVP D4S, ROT66 and MF01 aux board from me available
D4 is simply stabilized with LDO, but can be build also without to support low mode