Fireflies E07 preview

This fenix lampshade AD502 is meeting expectations for diffuser on my E07,
con is for now it has to be taped on.

Didn’t see the micro print, only the active “Add to Cart” button. Don’t worry, I don’t hit the rude button on the mentally deranged… lol

What driver configuration does the E07 use? Is it a 2 channel driver like the PL47 or a 3 channel like the ROT66?

Beam shots when you get it? What kind of battery are you going for? I’m torn between an E07vn in W1, W2, or even a mix of both…

Can someone please help me understand the reason behind setting the camera to 5700K to shoot a 4000K light?

I wrote a book about being mentally deranged, now, if I could just find it (I actually happen to be wearing my “I do know it all… I just can’t remember it all at once” T-Shirt )

Note to the assembly team at Fireflies. Thermal paste is very important. My SST-20’s went blue in about 20 seconds on a 30T cell… gee, wonder why…

I DID NOT clean the MCPCB, this shot was taken immediately after pulling said MCPCB from the emitter shelf, yes this is exactly how it was assembled.

Edit: On a more positive note…

The Samsung LH351D 5000K W6 emitters look LOVELY in moonlight mode… :smiley:

You sound like my neighbour "Mr. Know it all" lol. The only difference is that you actually know what you're talking about

My wife and daughter bought me this T shirt a decade ago, I really am wearing the shirt with that slogan printed on the front. lol

If I didn’t have a 4000 Kelvin setting, or if I couldn’t use a photo of a white subject shot with the camera as the custom white balance, I believe I’d leave it in Auto White Balance… the camera can do no worse than a manual setting nearly 2000K in arrears. :wink:

@DBCustom, they didn’t put any actual thermal paste in?

Oh god. That doesn’t seem too good.

I took the picture literally seconds after pulling the board out, you can see I’m still holding it with the curved jaw hemostats, literally saw it and held it next to the head and snapped the shot with my i8.

So while I had it apart I thoroughly checked into the broken optic leg screw in the wrong hole syndrome. Seems that when the head was drilled and tapped for threads a pattern was used. The board can indeed go into the head with the screws in the correct positions that allow the optic to sit in it’s 4 corresponding holes on the pcb. BUT, the hole for the wires would then be in the wrong position on the pcb. So the template used to drill the holes didn’t have a locator on it to determine exact placement for the pcb. And therein lies the problem… The threaded hole for that out-of-place screw is simply in the wrong place. There is no threaded hole where the screw should be positioned.

Oops! :blush:

Jacky Boy gots some splanin to do

And Lucy cannot help him…

All profit baby! That stuff costs 0.01¢ per light…

haha! My wife thinks I'm mr. know it all when it comes to construction, but I'll admit I'm pretty good in that area.

I orderd my E07's glued so I'm not going to know if thermal paste was applied or not. Would the XPL-Hi 5000k and 6500k turn blue also if there was none on there too? Trying to get an idea of tell tale signs just in case.

I played around with the screw and optic hole locations in Photoshop. If there’s a template then just rotating it doesn’t seem to let one of the screws end up in a leg hole. It actually requires that the template be flipped over and then rotated. Then a screw can end up in either of the leg holes beside the wires.

If there’s no “This side face up” on the pattern and whoever’s responsible for tapping and threading holes is just tossing the template into the light arbitrarily then maybe 50% of lights will get screws in the wrong place. That’s not particularly reassuring.

Maybe not, there are the 3 screws holding the board tight against the emitter shelf, so as long as the MCPCB fits properly into the head then the screws can snug it down for good contact. Thermal paste would certainly help, but the copper is thick and rather large so maybe it’s not so horribly bad.

There is some sort of very thin almost oily residue on the emitter shelf in mine, and a grey substance around the edges… almost like some thermal compound had been applied but wiped off. The copper board shows quite clearly that nothing contacted it on the vast majority of it’s surface, but some of that grey is around the very edges… don’t know what happened to this particular light but it would appear it was disassembled and reassembled improperly. That would be my guess anyway.

Would the driver maybe be glued in with thermal adhesive?

Just ordered mine btw. I want to do the emitter swap that DB Custom did. It looks awesome. Not green at all. Awesome output. Hope it wont explode or catch fire.

P.S.: Why does it even work? I heard that due to the high forward voltage the LH would not be able to hold output for long. And I don’t even know what the forward voltage exactly is anf how everything plays together. Source1 Source2 (especially confused about this and the Amps each light would draw and the output produced).

rennet, I’m not saying the template was rotated, I’m saying the template was laid out wrong and not indexed. One of the three holes is not in the correct position.

Yes I know. I’m just adding that I think it’s because the template gets put in face down.