Astrolux Ti3A Nichia 219C 5000K Teardown & Mods

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CRX
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Astrolux Ti3A Nichia 219C 5000K Teardown & Mods

Here we have a nice little titanium light that I received from Lexels 4444 giveaway Smile Beer

Modded with tail clicky switch.Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.Titanium construction
Nichia 219C 5000K emitter
10mm Copper DTP MCPCB
13mm ARC glass
OP reflector
Copper & brass hand made pill
Copper lined battery tube
MTN FET 10mm driver (G1)
Lockout-able
Forward clicky tail switch

Max - 680lm OTF

Length – 70mm
Width – 15mm/ 13mm
Weight – 34g (With 10440 cell)Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.

Astrolux Ti3A runtime graph.

Astrolux Ti3A runtime graph

The original pill is a plastic tube, yes plastic, haven't seen anything like that for a while, shame really as it is such a nice wee titanium host and well made otherwise.
The driver is press fitted into this plastic tube with wires up to the LED on a fibre board that kinda floats loosely in the reflector recess.

The orange peel reflector is nice solid aluminium and has outside threads which attach the bezel to the head.
No o-ring was present at the front glass or head twist mechanism but there was one at the tailcap, I have siliconed the glass into the bezel, o-ring at battery tube and thick silicone grease at the switch for some water ingress resistance.

Originally this is a head twisty operated light, to disassemble first unscrew the bezel, reflector, take out the pill and a brass screwed retainer is revealed. It has two indents for unscrewing from the battery tube.
Red thread locker all round on the threaded head parts.

Here's all the original bits & pieces.Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.

I lined the battery tube with some thin copper, soldered to the brass retainer after filing the edge down a little so it will not retain the head piece any more and added an o-ring & thermal paste between the copper & battery tube.Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.

Drilled a 4mm hole through the tail cap & made a small switch plunger out of 4mm magnets, filled slot with JB weld.

Wrapped a small forward clicky switch with copper tape and press fitted into the end of the battery tube, with some on the threads for a tighter fit of the tail cap. Dremeled out the tail cap a little for a snug fit of the switch.Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.

I made a new metal pill from a plumbers 10mm id brass ferrule, some K&S brass tube, 1mm thick copper sheet, all soldered together then installed the 10mm FET driver & Nichia 219C 5000K LED on a 10mm DTP MCPCB. Press fitted into the head.

I sanded down the underside of the reflector as much as possible to fit the LED. Added some contrasting aesthetics.

A nice wee titanium tail clicky pocket rocket it is now   Wink Thumbs Up Astrolux Ti3A  Nichia 219C 5000K - FET 10 - 10440 - Fw Clicky Tail Sw - 680lm.

 
 
Edited by: CRX on 04/20/2019 - 00:04
Agro
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CRX, you make threaded parts. Smile
What was the ID of the battery tube before the mod and what is it after?

I love the thermal improvement. Smile

hodor
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Amazing! Thumbs Up But now there’s no space for a trit Wink

CRX
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Agro wrote:
CRX, you make threaded parts. Smile
What was the ID of the battery tube before the mod and what is it after?

I love the thermal improvement. Smile


I didn’t measure it before but must have been around 11mm and 10.4mm diameter after. Had to take the labels off the Efest 10440 Wink
It does actually help move some heat down the battery tube, I have it set so the end of the copper & brass tube butts up against the pill.
CRX
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hodor wrote:
Amazing! Thumbs Up But now there’s no space for a trit Wink

It was a sacrifice I was willing to make for a tail switch, I’ll figure something out Wink
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CRX wrote:
hodor wrote:
Amazing! Thumbs Up But now there’s no space for a trit Wink
It was a sacrifice I was willing to make for a tail switch, I’ll figure something out Wink

Shocked Mate, you kill me with these mods Beer

BTW, you still have the lanyard hole for the tritium vial Evil

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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CRX
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True, though I wanted to keep that free.
I have a couple 2.5mm long trits that nearly fit each side of the switch button but I would need to do a little dremeling of the slot, may do that at some point Thumbs Up

Slayer1
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Awesome build again. Thumbs Up I will take it Big Smile

CRX
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Big Smile
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Thumbs Up Nice work CRX.

 

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CRX
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Thanks mate Beer

Firelight2
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Awesome job!!!! Beer

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nice work Thumbs Up

Umpi2000
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Proper pocket rocket, awesome work Shocked

ImA4Wheelr
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Just gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.  I'm always floored by how beautiful you make a light inside and out.

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CRX wrote:
True, though I wanted to keep that free.
I have a couple 2.5mm long trits that nearly fit each side of the switch button but I would need to do a little dremeling of the slot, may do that at some point Thumbs Up

Maybe you could build the switch post (or just the exposed part) entirely from trits?
CRX
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Crossed my mind, a 6mm x 1.5mm would fit nicely but wouldn’t last too long I think.

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3 trits would be much stronger than 1. Wink

CRX
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Agro wrote:
3 trits would be much stronger than 1. Wink

This is true Smile
Hobo
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Was your bezel glued? I can’t get mine off

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

CRX
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Yes, red thread locker.

Hobo
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I managed to loosen the bezel (not without scratches), but now I’m stuck with the reflector. I tried holding it with a vice, but I only ended up damaging the thread. This light is not easy to work on, bummer.

8) Lube Threads Everyday 8)

CRX
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It’s a bugger Big Smile
I gripped the threads gently with rubber lined grips then heated the head and twisted the reflector out.
If it doesn’t come fairly easy then the glue isn’t soft/ heated enough.
Really need to be careful with the soft aluminium threads.

hodor
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The bezel came off mine relatively easily after running it on high for few minutes but I couldn’t get any further. No matter though, turns out the lens (another one!) was the culprit for the green tint and a minus green filter (805) cleaned it right up Smile