Yeah, unfortunately you have to de-solder the wires and then put them back when you’re done, and there are a LOT of little things all around that you don’t want to touch with the iron! Like a game of Operation! 
Too delicate an operation for me lol. Margin of error is very slim around there and I can just see myself bridging a lot of little circuits and creating a huge chaos by the time I'm done.
Opened up my E07 tonight to redo the thermal compound.
- As expected the bottom of my star was shiny copper with no compound on it except at the very edges.
- Before desoldering any wires I made notes on where each wire went so I wouldn’t have to worry about mixing them up.
- Desoldering the 3 aux LED wires was simple.
- Desoldering the driver wires to the star was harder. I normally have a fine tip in the iron with temp set at 350 degrees F. That turned out to be utterly insufficient for the very thick driver wires (either 20 gauge or maybe 18 gauge). I had to swap in a thicker tip and crank my iron to 400. Once I did that the driver wires desoldered without issue.
- Once I removed the star I chamfered the bottom edge with a handfile.
- I wiped off the original very thin layer of thermal compound and added a much thicker layer of Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease.
- Reinstalled and resoldered the star and the aux LED boards, and screwed the star back in. All 3 of my driver screws were fine. No stripped Phillips heads.
Turned it on afterwards and everything works. 
Entire procedure took about 45 minutes.
I should probably check my E07 too. I’ve been avoiding soldering though, because all my solder tips are dead or very close to dead. I need to get some new ones, and maybe figure out how to make them last longer.
man u guys got me worried.
I colour code wires then desolder them. it was dried and no sign of thermal paste 
My Lii-40A (Liitokala 4000mAh 21700) flat-top has also been dented on top by the FF E07 (grey body color). Any idea if the Lii-40A is a rewrapped LiShen 2170SA? It looks quite similar.
help me…
im mess up the thick wire…
maybe there is a cut in the insulation.
now my e07 become twistie…
alway on until i unscrew the tailcap… 
any idea how to remove the driver
seems you somehow connected led- with ground...
€dited
That’d be a dead short (batt+ to batt~~), he’s likely shorted the LED~~ wire to ground, that would make the light true direct drive and only shut off when he unscrewed the tail he stated.
That or a solder blob between the LED- pad and the MCPCB
Take a high quality picture and people can help more easily. If you did cut the wire insulation just tape it up. No need to replace the wire (probably)
will try to tape it up…
the soldering look really messy now after 3rd time desoldering…
thank… will update later 
No room for tape, just replace the wire. They used stiff 18ga leads that easily get the coating split when you re-do them a couple of times. Much easier to just replace the wire.
I wouldn’t condone trying but liquid tape would probably fix it up.
Any word from FireFlies regarding production corrections to all of the above mentioned QC issues and anomalies?
how to open the driver?
check with multi meter…
seems like there is short between + and the body (head)
From this thread:
Cu & Ti premium versions available next month with the following improvements:
- Application of more thermal paste.
- Battery tube will be extended to about 1mm to support/prevent damaging longer 21700. Anything longer than 1mm might affect the operation of 18650 setup.
I received my Gray E07 (purchased from Neal) earlier this week, along with what appears to be a counterfeit Samsung 40T. I contemplated purchasing a battery from Illumn, IMR Batteries, etc., but the cost with shipping would have exceeded the price of the battery on Neal’s store. And besides, a manufacturer that is aimed squarely at the enthusiast market should at least make sure to have a decent source of batteries, right?
Unfortunately, no.
At checkout, it was very clear that I was purchasing a “Samsung INR21700-40T”. And that is what the wrapper of the cell claims:
However, the bottom of a genuine Samsung 40T is smooth, while the one I received has a ring machined in the bottom. This ring strongly resembles the ring on the bottom of a Lishen LR2170SA.
Finally, the specification of the Samsung 40T lists a weight of 66.8g, while the specification of the Lishen LR2170SA lists a weight of 69g. The cell I received weights 68.9g.
Based on this, it appears Fireflies is shipping cheaper Lishen cells that have been rewrapped to look like better performing, and considerably more expensive, Samsung 40T cells.
Would have like to help you with this but i do not think my soldering iron and talents equal to your sideral sphere. 
A warm baguette melts cheese however. Red wine is an excellent flux.
It won’t take long to find someone able to solder for you if you would ask.
Delta_V here is my samsung 40t
