+1 . Agreed on the UI of the SP33. The more I use it, the more I like it! A quick double click to Turbo, and a quick single click back to the brightness level you were in.
And the choice of a good ramping UI is a must I think. :+1:
I do not care about any tint warmer than 5000K.
High CRI… I can take it or leave it. It is not a priority to me.
I do not care about USB charging at all, be it Micro or C. However, if a light must have it; there should at least be a very substantial tight fitting plug covering the port.Better yet is a covered port like the Zanflare Z1 has!
I just got a C8F 21700 version and a SP33. I actually purchased the SP33 to give to my “Muggle” inlaws as a less expensive alternative to the discontinued Fenix FD-40.
SP33 - I wish turbo was brighter and there doesn’t seem to be all that much difference between the regular levels. I don’t really care for the UI on it. The e-switch is a little hard to locate on this light by touch but I generally like the size of it. I wouldn’t mind though if the head was a bit larger to make it easier to distinguish which end is which by touch. I think Fenix got this right on the FD-40. I don’t know if the slight outward flare at the lens was required for the optics but it definitely makes for a nice to hold light. I would make the crenelations on the head a bit more pronouced so when the light is on and standing on the head, more light spills out.
C8F 21700 - I love the multi-UI as you can choose what you want. The beam pattern kind of stinks with the triple reflector. Based on my Emisar D4 and the reviews I’ve seen for the Fireflies E07, it seems like multi-emitter heads with TIR optics make for nicer (floody) beams. I really like the tint of this light better than the ~6000k SP33 I don’t know what color temp LEDs are used and I haven’t taken it out yet to compare to my Nichia 219 equipped D4. The threads on the tail switch need to be phased so that the rear switch can be reached with the thumb while the mode switch is pressed with the pinky finger.
I’d love to see a light with the UI of the C8F but with 4 or more emitters and an option for a 26650 body as I find this diameter more comfortable to hold. Also, I wouldn’t mind seeing 2x 21700 or 2x26650 bodies if the drivers can handle the extra voltage. Adding a second cell might also enable the lights to maintain turbo longer since the cells aren’t stressed as much.
Their tint and R9 color rendering is even better than the LH351Ds, are easier to find in China, and a bit cheaper, and are way throwier than the LH351D.
I would like to see something similar to the NITECORE LR30 (replaceable 18650 or 21700, and maybe even a version 26650), but in the aluminum body, perhaps slightly larger for a heat sink, and HiCRI Warm or Neutral white.
Lumens - how does the SST-20 compare to the LH351D in lumens in real flashlights? SST-20's have to be defined for what they are. They compare great against a 219B or 219C in the 3000K/4000K high CRI version, but it's the SST-20 5000K/6500K that does better in throw than a XPL HI, slightly lower than a XPL HI in lumens. The SST-20 4000K has less lumens than a XP-G2 S4 and about the same throw.
The SST-20 5000K/6500K seems to be a great stock 3V thrower with a slight sacrifice of lumens compared to a XPL HI.
The SST-20 3000K/4000K is also a great thrower for what it is, but considering it's high CRI, it sacrifices lumens and throw to get there.
We just need some apples to apples comparison for lumens and throw. I'm sure there's a big difference between a 5000K 80+ CRI and 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. That D4S page is the only listing I know that really, in theory, is a great comparative list, though we know nothing of the specifics on those tests - cells, measurement equipment, methods, etc.
Has anyone built a C8F with XP-G3 4.000K yet? AFAIH, the 4000K is not subject to have such a horrible tint shift as the 5.700K/6.500K ones. Didn't Sofirn want to launch the C8F with XP-G3 in the very beginning but eventually decided otherwise?